Where do I start?

[jamesmartin]

So would it be better getting a 10k one, then hope it is ok, or a 5k one, and be prepared to spend a little in time and money to make it better?

If I had hair, it would be pulled out.

have a good look underneath

 

[Danny Fireblade]

Are there any places easier to fix than others?

 

[flat]

Places easier to fix?

Also I meant to say, no matter how good you think the first one you see is, don’t buy it, the next one will be better.

Look at as many as you can and drive them so you can get a feel for how they should be.

Buy on structural condition as the mechanicals are much easier to sort, especially if your handy with spanners yourself

 

[bluedog333]

If I had hair, it would be pulled out.

have a good look underneath

How’s looking for pubes going to help?

 

[Marmaduke]

So would it be better getting a 10k one, then hope it is ok, or a 5k one, and be prepared to spend a little in time and money to make it better?

If I had hair, it would be pulled out.

As said go and have a look at a few, quite often the difference between a 10 grand one and a 5 grand one is minimal it's just some people get ripped off for the sake of not doing some research.

 

[lightning]

So would it be better getting a 10k one, then hope it is ok, or a 5k one, and be prepared to spend a little in time and money to make it better?

If I had hair, it would be pulled out.

Buy the best base vehicle that you can afford.

 

[dag019]

As others have stated don't worry too much about the mileage that is on it, look at the overall condition of the vehicle and the "service history" which comes with it. My 200tdi has 270k on the clock and is still going strong, drove to and around morocco this year with no issiue, and would happily get in it tomorrow and complete another trip. That has no official service history and I do not even own the service book, but I have a folder of every penny that has been spent on it in the last 10 years of my ownership totaling more than I care to add up!
If it is a private sale and comes with a large folder of receipts and invoices for parts from a bloke with oily hands, I would trust the vehicle far more than one from a dealer with a fully stamped up official service book. But on the flip side, I would still be wanting to give both vehicles a thorough check over to build up a full picture of the current condition and how well it has been looked after previously.
When looking at the condition it is the little things that help to build up the bigger picture. Look for the obvious, like rust and chassis/bulkhead condition, but also check little things, like how recently the prop UJ's have been greased etc. to get a complete picture of the general maintenance which has been carried out.

 

[flat]

As others have stated don't worry too much about the mileage that is on it, look at the overall condition of the vehicle and the "service history" which comes with it. My 200tdi has 270k on the clock and is still going strong, drove to and around morocco this year with no issiue, and would happily get in it tomorrow and complete another trip. That has no official service history and I do not even own the service book, but I have a folder of every penny that has been spent on it in the last 10 years of my ownership totaling more than I care to add up!
If it is a private sale and comes with a large folder of receipts and invoices for parts from a bloke with oily hands, I would trust the vehicle far more than one from a dealer with a fully stamped up official service book. But on the flip side, I would still be wanting to give both vehicles a thorough check over to build up a full picture of the current condition and how well it has been looked after previously.
When looking at the condition it is the little things that help to build up the bigger picture. Look for the obvious, like rust and chassis/bulkhead condition, but also check little things, like how recently the prop UJ's have been greased etc. to get a complete picture of the general maintenance which has been carried out.

This - I would rather a masses folder of receipts than a stamped dealer book.

I keep every receipt, even for bulbs etc

 

[Danny Fireblade]

Thanks everyone. It is still amazing just how varied the price can be for wildly different vehicles. I have seen this, sounds positive with chassis etc, but some things on it that I am not too keen on, such as graphics and paint, but that is easily remedied I am sure. Any thoughts or views, and is the price realistic??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rov...m=263529113964&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

[Colthebrummie]

That looks good to me, I agree about the graphics apart from the Union Jack ones, I'd keep them. I reckon the price doesn't seem too unreasonable.

Col

 

[flat]

I would want to see it in person and drive it for sure. Check the chassis, paperwork etc

But yeah I am sure all that stuck on graphics ****e could be removed.

Doesn’t seem bad price wise, But I would still haggle a bit.

Would leave you a few grand left over from your budget to ‘bank’ for future work.

 

[flat]

Also be aware if you go see something like that, look out for the chassis having been recently covered in black underbody wax etc - that’s often done to hide a multitude of sins so very careful inspection is required

 

[Marmaduke]

As flat said it seems a bit too cheap to me especially from a dealer who's selling it for a 'friend'. If it's not to far away from you it's certainly worth a look though

 

[Danny Fireblade]

I have spoken with him and will go to see it tomorrow. Chassis isn't covered in wax so should be easier to inspect, happy for test drive and the bloke has had it about 7 years, with the chap who is selling it doing servicing etc on it since he has had it.

So, other than the rot on chassis and bulkhead, which he assures me there is none, anything else to look for? Bottom of the doors he says have a little bit, but nothing too bad. Are the doors expensive to repair/replace? He says it drives very well and bushes replaced with good ones, not cheap?

Any particular places to look for for rot? Pics and arrows would help for finding the places. I am guessing a little surface rust is easily dealt with by removing and repainting?

Pre warned is pre armed so they say. Thanks

 

[dag019]

That does seem on the face of it to be a fairly good looking truck, the graphics will definitly be easily removed if they are not to your taste. I don't know how much of a premium in the price all the accessories, and the "smart" look will be adding. This (link) is cheaper and newer and looks on the face of it looks to be a fairly honest looking vehicle. But it depends on if you want a td5 or a tdi engine.

there should be a buying guide on here somewhere giving you the things to check and the places to look for rust, I will try and find the link for you.

 

[lynall]

They only break down becasue people THINK they are tough and dont look after them!

 

[Danny Fireblade]

I was thinking of a TDI engine, as it has been said on here the TD5 have more electrics, and the 300tdi are very strong and I think I would be happier working on it if needed.

Hopefully the 110 is as described, and i have a friend with a 90 who will come with me after for another look if I am unsure about anything. I don't really know anyone else who to ask, lol.

 

[flat]

They only break down becasue people THINK they are tough and dont look after them!

i am endlessly saying this exact thing to people, they have a lot more moving parts than 'normal' cars and need extra attention accordingly. People also think they are 'tough' so drive them in a non-sympathetic way

Well looked after, treated correctly and they are no less unreliable than any other vehicle.

 

[Danny Fireblade]

Looking back at previous MOT's, it failed a few times on small things like headlight aim or bulbs, and they had the following advisories:
2018 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Various oil weeps
· Slight play in front propshaft forward UJ
· Slight play in rear propshaft rear UJ
2017 - Advisory notice item(s)
· oil weep from power steering hose at pump
· slight play in nearside front wheeel bearing
2016 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Rear upper shock absorber bushes worn
· Nearside Front axle forward trailing arm bushes worn
· Offside Front forward trailing arm bushes worn (Strong Advise)
· Nearside Front Drag link end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)
· Offside Front Drag link end ball joint has slight play (Strong Advise) (2.2.B.1f)
2015 - No advisories
2014 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Rear Shock absorber has a slightly worn bush (2.7.4)
· play in steering damper bush /grease boot split on drop arm
2013 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Drag link end ball joint has slight play (2.2.B.1f)
2012 - No advisories
2011 - No advisories
2010 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Front Shock absorber has a slightly worn bush (2.7.4)
· Rear Shock absorber has a slightly worn bush (2.7.4)
2009 - Advisory notice item(s)
· Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a)

Anything jumping out as warning signs? Are the UJ's anything to worry about/expensive to fix/replace?

Thanks

 

[Danny Fireblade]

i am endlessly saying this exact thing to people, they have a lot more moving parts than 'normal' cars and need extra attention accordingly. People also think they are 'tough' so drive them in a non-sympathetic way

Well looked after, treated correctly and they are no less unreliable than any other vehicle.

Do people service them themselves? I know I must have changed the oil on army rovers about a million times (maybe a little exaggeration). I am guessing most things are achievable at home servicing wise?