What have you done to your Freelander today

[Alibro]

Getting the old slave cylinders off isn't much fun. The bolts will just be a bump of rust by now so forget about screwing them out and there is no room for a grinder or dremel. I fought with mine for ages before having a brainwave. I bought a power file a year or so ago and used it very little since but it had the heads off the bolts in seconds.

 

[GrumpyGel]

I wonder if the cylinders come with replacement seal and bolts?

 

[GrumpyGel]

...and any tips for minimising loss of brake fluid when the pipe/hose is removed from the old cylinder?

 

[Alibro]

...and any tips for minimising loss of brake fluid when the pipe/hose is removed from the old cylinder?

You'll probably end up needing to replace the short brake pipe anyway so just crimp the pipe with a pair of pliers. In fact you could have to replace the flexi pipes too so beware.

 

[GrumpyGel]

This is escalating! From original thought of replacing shoes, I'm now into shoes, cylinders, drums, pipes and hoses

 

[Alibro]

This is escalating! From original thought of replacing shoes, I'm now into shoes, cylinders, drums, pipes and hoses

It's a landy ain't it

 

[Nodge68]

This is escalating! From original thought of replacing shoes, I'm now into shoes, cylinders, drums, pipes and hoses

I replaced the whole lot on mine for it's MOT in September.
New front to rear pipes. New flexy pipes. New link pipes. New cylinders. New shoes. New springs. New drums. It's a lot of parts to change but it's done for a few years now.

Here's a couple pictures I took after the pipes were done.

 

[GrumpyGel]

I replaced the whole lot on mine for it's MOT in September.
New front to rear pipes. New flexy pipes. New link pipes. New cylinders. New shoes. New springs. New drums. It's a lot of parts to change but it's done for a few years now.

Here's a few pictures I took after it was done.View attachment 137359
View attachment 137360

But the car's only 18 years old

 

[Nodge68]

But the car's only 18 years old

It's done well as mine is just under 13 years old.

 

[kernowsvenski]

Don't shiny new bits look great!

 

[Rich in Vancouver]

The cast iron in the new cylinders should be OK but I doubt the seals will last as long as the originals. I'm sure you will avoid cylinders from the far east!
It will give you a good excuse to renew the brake fluid. Moisture in the fluid is often what kills wheel cylinders.

 

[GrumpyGel]

The cast iron in the new cylinders should be OK but I doubt the seals will last as long as the originals. I'm sure you will avoid cylinders from the far east!
It will give you a good excuse to renew the brake fluid. Moisture in the fluid is often what kills wheel cylinders.

All of the brake fluid was changed within the last couple of years when I changed the ABS unit, don't want to do it again, hence asking for tips on minimising fluid loss. LRDirect are quoting OEM cylinders at $13.55 (£7.00) which sounds great to me. The bolts are from LR and $18 for a bag of 10.

I've been under the car and examined the hoses and pipes. The pipes look and feel real smooth, just a tiny amount of pitting on 1. The heads where they bolt to the cylinders are good, flat and not corroded. So I'm happy the pipes don't need changing. I will crack the bolts though before doing anything to make sure I can reuse them. The hoses look fine although its probably more difficult to tell with them from sight and feel, I suppose they may perish in other ways due to age. But if I'm not changing the pipes, I won't touch them either.

While I'm in there, I'll replace the springs and clips - horror stories of the clips going and total loss of brakes. $30 for LR parts sounds reasonable.

Then you get to the main bits.... and LR start playing silly buggers! The shoes, $20 for aftermarket (Bearmach who I don't want to use) or $85 for LR. Even worse, the drums, $28 for AllMakes or $381 for LR!!!!! Problem with the drums as well is that they are heavy and add $40 to the shipping costs. So with the drums doubling the price of the repair, I'm going to take them off again and examine them before I order the bits. I've got a sticker in the car saying its warranted till towards the end of Jan, so I've got a couple of weeks.

 

[Nodge68]

All of the brake fluid was changed within the last couple of years when I changed the ABS unit, don't want to do it again, hence asking for tips on minimising fluid loss. LRDirect are quoting OEM cylinders at $13.55 (£7.00) which sounds great to me. The bolts are from LR and $18 for a bag of 10.

I've been under the car and examined the hoses and pipes. The pipes look and feel real smooth, just a tiny amount of pitting on 1. The heads where they bolt to the cylinders are good, flat and not corroded. So I'm happy the pipes don't need changing. I will crack the bolts though before doing anything to make sure I can reuse them. The hoses look fine although its probably more difficult to tell with them from sight and feel, I suppose they may perish in other ways due to age. But if I'm not changing the pipes, I won't touch them either.

While I'm in there, I'll replace the springs and clips - horror stories of the clips going and total loss of brakes. $30 for LR parts sounds reasonable.

Then you get to the main bits.... and LR start playing silly buggers! The shoes, $20 for aftermarket (Bearmach who I don't want to use) or $85 for LR. Even worse, the drums, $28 for AllMakes or $381 for LR!!!!! Problem with the drums as well is that they are heavy and add $40 to the shipping costs. So with the drums doubling the price of the repair, I'm going to take them off again and examine them before I order the bits. I've got a sticker in the car saying its warranted till towards the end of Jan, so I've got a couple of weeks.

You should be ok reusing the old cylinder bolts, providing they aren't seized. As the pointless use of salt isn't commonplace over there, the bolts shouldn't be too rusty. There's no need to use LR bolts though, they're just standed m6 bolts 20mm long.
I used Delphi shoes and All Makes drums and the quality is fine.
It's well worth changing the fluid and flexy hoses too. The flexy hoses should really be changed at 5 year intervals and the fluid every 2. OEM cylinders will be just fine too. If you can stretch to new drums, you'll definitely improve the bed in period and improve the braking. Brakes are your only lifeline when things go wrong.

 

[davidsmith1307]

My new slaves were Lockheed from memory. Look like decent quality but only time will tell.
Mine will definitely last 18 years if it never leaves my garage.

 

[Alibro]

All of the brake fluid was changed within the last couple of years when I changed the ABS unit, don't want to do it again, hence asking for tips on minimising fluid loss. LRDirect are quoting OEM cylinders at $13.55 (£7.00) which sounds great to me. The bolts are from LR and $18 for a bag of 10.

I've been under the car and examined the hoses and pipes. The pipes look and feel real smooth, just a tiny amount of pitting on 1. The heads where they bolt to the cylinders are good, flat and not corroded. So I'm happy the pipes don't need changing. I will crack the bolts though before doing anything to make sure I can reuse them. The hoses look fine although its probably more difficult to tell with them from sight and feel, I suppose they may perish in other ways due to age. But if I'm not changing the pipes, I won't touch them either.

While I'm in there, I'll replace the springs and clips - horror stories of the clips going and total loss of brakes. $30 for LR parts sounds reasonable.

Then you get to the main bits.... and LR start playing silly buggers! The shoes, $20 for aftermarket (Bearmach who I don't want to use) or $85 for LR. Even worse, the drums, $28 for AllMakes or $381 for LR!!!!! Problem with the drums as well is that they are heavy and add $40 to the shipping costs. So with the drums doubling the price of the repair, I'm going to take them off again and examine them before I order the bits. I've got a sticker in the car saying its warranted till towards the end of Jan, so I've got a couple of weeks.

Sometimes when you go to release the brake pipes the pipe is seized to the union so when you loosen the union the pipe twists with it. That's why I suggested you have spare pipe and unions handy. As for saving the fluid you could make up a pair of these.

 

[GrumpyGel]

Sometimes when you go to release the brake pipes the pipe is seized to the union so when you loosen the union the pipe twists with it. That's why I suggested you have spare pipe and unions handy. As for saving the fluid you could make up a pair of these. View attachment 137401

Having had a brief look I can't see reasonably priced pipe pieces - its looking like about £40 for the pair. Its a pain being over here. In the UK I could easily take a shot at changing them and if they break order replacements to arrive tomorrow at reasonable delivery cost, or even get them from a local parts store. Over here though they're either stupid expensive or long delivery delays and postage from the UK.

It looks like a different part number on the 1A (2000+) cars which is a shame because I could remove the ones on my parts car first to make sure I had ones to fit.

I have pieces like the right one in your pic. They are used to plug the holes in a spare ABS modulator I have. If I split at the pipe/hose connection I could plug the hose with one of those, remove the old bits, tidy the hub up, install the new bits, then remove the old hose and connect in the new one. Sounds like a plan

 

[Alibro]

Having had a brief look I can't see reasonably priced pipe pieces - its looking like about £40 for the pair. Its a pain being over here. In the UK I could easily take a shot at changing them and if they break order replacements to arrive tomorrow at reasonable delivery cost, or even get them from a local parts store. Over here though they're either stupid expensive or long delivery delays and postage from the UK.

It looks like a different part number on the 1A (2000+) cars which is a shame because I could remove the ones on my parts car first to make sure I had ones to fit.

I have pieces like the right one in your pic. They are used to plug the holes in a spare ABS modulator I have. If I split at the pipe/hose connection I could plug the hose with one of those, remove the old bits, tidy the hub up, install the new bits, then remove the old hose and connect in the new one. Sounds like a plan

Buy some pipe and a pipe flaring tool. 10 minutes of practising and your good to go.
One like this is easy to use and almost fool proof.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2617348625...=9045194&device=c&campaignid=857233083&crdt=0
Also get a pipe cutter.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/tube-cut...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPimzpvrm9gCFVKuUQodr4AGKA

 

[Nodge68]

Having had a brief look I can't see reasonably priced pipe pieces - its looking like about £40 for the pair. Its a pain being over here. In the UK I could easily take a shot at changing them and if they break order replacements to arrive tomorrow at reasonable delivery cost, or even get them from a local parts store. Over here though they're either stupid expensive or long delivery delays and postage from the UK.

It looks like a different part number on the 1A (2000+) cars which is a shame because I could remove the ones on my parts car first to make sure I had ones to fit.

I have pieces like the right one in your pic. They are used to plug the holes in a spare ABS modulator I have. If I split at the pipe/hose connection I could plug the hose with one of those, remove the old bits, tidy the hub up, install the new bits, then remove the old hose and connect in the new one. Sounds like a plan

I'll make you up a pair of solid pipes in copper after Christmas if you cover the postage GG.
Like this.

 

[GrumpyGel]

I'll make you up a pair of solid pipes in copper after Christmas if you cover the postage GG.
Like this.View attachment 137419

That's a really kind offer Nodge

I'll PM you.

 

[RossRobObey]

Yesterday saw me take the Freelander into work to use the ramps and get a couple of jobs done before driving home for Christmas.

I had another bearing noise, this time coming strongly from the gearstick hole. I had another spare rear wheel bearing just in case but though it would be best to whip the prop off and diagnose. Sure enough, noise disappeared with the prop. Rear most carrier bearing was noisy so replaced both of those with some GKN units locally sourced. The bearings were on pretty well so needed to angle grind down through the carrier and outer bearing race, then use a smaller disk cutter to cut the inner race off.

I then needed to change the rear diff mounts, which made sense to do whilst the prop was off. All straight forward there.

Last problem was a binding front caliper. Whipped it off to replace the seals and piston, one of the sliders was so caked with dried crap and rust I'm surprised it even came out. Unfortunately I only had seals and not new sliders, because even with them being cleaned and regreased it's still binding. Hopefully new sliders will cure that.

The next job I didn't have time for was to replace the last rear brake cylinder, the nipple is seized and the brake fluid is in desperate need of a change.