Starting issues - (have searched forum)

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Not all the pipes, as I fitted a one way valve that should stop fuel bleed back to the tank. Looks like i will bite the bullet and replace all the lines
 
Not all the pipes, as I fitted a one way valve that should stop fuel bleed back to the tank. Looks like i will bite the bullet and replace all the lines
That fuel bleed back to the tank is probably necessary though! Not all the fuel that goes to the pump is burnt - it's used for cooling injectors and lubrication too.

If you have done the spill pipes next to check is that the lift pump is running. Turn the engine until you can feel resistance to moving the lift pump lever, open the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter and pump it a few times - if no fuel comes out then it's new lift pump time.
 
That fuel bleed back to the tank is probably necessary though! Not all the fuel that goes to the pump is burnt - it's used for cooling injectors and lubrication too.

If you have done the spill pipes next to check is that the lift pump is running. Turn the engine until you can feel resistance to moving the lift pump lever, open the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter and pump it a few times - if no fuel comes out then it's new lift pump time.
The back to the tank line is fine, this is on the line to the pump
 
So your STILL avin trouble starting ??
Have to wait for my battery to charge to try again, but in honesty, I don think the sender looked bad at all, so doubt its the sender
I do wonder what made it go from a winter only issue, to a all year round one. Could it be that valve?
 
Check the lift pump. They are a bit of problem on 300's the engine works fine with a bust one until you get air in the system when you change the fuel filter...
 
STOP going round the woods to get to the trees !:rolleyes: If you take the fuel filter off we may get to the problem instead of walking round & round !!
 
STOP going round the woods to get to the trees !:rolleyes: If you take the fuel filter off we may get to the problem instead of walking round & round !!
Just drained the filter and about 30ml of fuel came out the bottom. Havent the tools to take it off
 
@Fingle, is your 300tdi an edc injection pump, (IP), type or just the one with throttle cable, ordinary type Bosch pump?
I have had on my previous 300tdi a problem such as you described, hard starting after a long or overnight stand quite happy to start on subsequent starts, and it was caused by air entering the inj pump through a worn throttle shaft seal.
A non return valve on the fuel supply will not help, this is because there is a separate "excess fuel line" returning fuel to the tank, air entering via the IP throttle shaft seal will allow the fuel necessarily stored in the IP body and fuel galleries to drain back to the tank when the vehicle is standing, thus the difficult start depending on stand time.
A leak at the IP throttle shaft will not necessarily leak fuel to the outside where it can be readily seen at the top of the IP.
To test the theory, fill your fuel tank to the brim, park the Disco nose downhill as much angle as you can get, if you have a steep or slope on the driveway that is good, even in the extreme jack the rear as high as it will go and leave it up until you need to start, but try to keep the fuel tank level as high as can be done against the level of the IP. If the throttle shaft is leaking air this method should have stopped the pump galleries draining and the engine should start normally after a long stop. Once the problem is proved it is not too hard to make a permanent fix with a new seal to the shaft.
I see this thread has been running a few months, any variables you may have experienced with starting over this time could have been due to fuel tank level or the way the vehicle was parked, good luck.
 
Thank you ! :) :eek:If that's all you got out then its your lift pump ! OR your seddy bowl is FULL of CRAP ! OR its the filter in the tank !
Can you get the pipe that goes to the tank off the filter head ? & if you can / can you blow down it to make sure that it's NOT your seddy bowl that's blocked or the filter in the tank ??
IF they are NOT blocked then it's your lift pump ! Make sure that ALL the pipe joints are tight on your lift pump if they are then get a NEW one ! & not a blue box one !
 
Thank you ! :) :eek:If that's all you got out then its your lift pump ! OR your seddy bowl is FULL of CRAP ! OR its the filter in the tank !
Can you get the pipe that goes to the tank off the filter head ? & if you can / can you blow down it to make sure that it's NOT your seddy bowl that's blocked or the filter in the tank ??
IF they are NOT blocked then it's your lift pump ! Make sure that ALL the pipe joints are tight on your lift pump if they are then get a NEW one ! & not a blue box one !
How do you explain this post then, if there's no fuel it would not restart.
Yeah once started it will start on the nail. Until you leave it for 4 + hours
 
@Fingle, is your 300tdi an edc injection pump, (IP), type or just the one with throttle cable, ordinary type Bosch pump?
I have had on my previous 300tdi a problem such as you described, hard starting after a long or overnight stand quite happy to start on subsequent starts, and it was caused by air entering the inj pump through a worn throttle shaft seal.
A non return valve on the fuel supply will not help, this is because there is a separate "excess fuel line" returning fuel to the tank, air entering via the IP throttle shaft seal will allow the fuel necessarily stored in the IP body and fuel galleries to drain back to the tank when the vehicle is standing, thus the difficult start depending on stand time.
A leak at the IP throttle shaft will not necessarily leak fuel to the outside where it can be readily seen at the top of the IP.
To test the theory, fill your fuel tank to the brim, park the Disco nose downhill as much angle as you can get, if you have a steep or slope on the driveway that is good, even in the extreme jack the rear as high as it will go and leave it up until you need to start, but try to keep the fuel tank level as high as can be done against the level of the IP. If the throttle shaft is leaking air this method should have stopped the pump galleries draining and the engine should start normally after a long stop. Once the problem is proved it is not too hard to make a permanent fix with a new seal to the shaft.
I see this thread has been running a few months, any variables you may have experienced with starting over this time could have been due to fuel tank level or the way the vehicle was parked, good luck.
Ordinary cam driven one
 
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