Freelander 1 EGR Coolant Hose

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andyfreelandy

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So - latest drama, TD4 blew a hole in the EGR coolant hose when 100m from home ! I have an EGR bypass and a kindly AA man had enough pipe to make a temp fix - however, can I bypass the coolant pipes as I don't use the EGR anyway - that would simplify the pipework, but is the coolant through the EGR doing anything else useful??

Also, after the temp repair, the car ran rough and sounded like it was in too high a gear with mechanical vibration through the car for about 20 miles, it then cleared and now seems fine - WTF was this all about??

Is it because the coolant got lost from the auto box cooler, the IRD cooler and all was not well with the oil temperature?? Has anyone else had this problem, basically that loosing coolant and a mild overheat has affected what appears to the transmission??

Root cause of failure seems to be a slight diesel leak from the turbo pipes which has rotted out the coolant pipe - it has gone all soft and stretchy - others beware !
 
and the next joke !!

Land rover only supply the 9 inch rubber pipe on the end of all the metal coolant rail pipes for £150 plus VAT !
Back to the drawing board and will re-engineer sommat out of straight pipes and elbows.
 
So - latest drama, TD4 blew a hole in the EGR coolant hose when 100m from home ! I have an EGR bypass and a kindly AA man had enough pipe to make a temp fix - however, can I bypass the coolant pipes as I don't use the EGR anyway - that would simplify the pipework, but is the coolant through the EGR doing anything else useful??

Also, after the temp repair, the car ran rough and sounded like it was in too high a gear with mechanical vibration through the car for about 20 miles, it then cleared and now seems fine - WTF was this all about??

Is it because the coolant got lost from the auto box cooler, the IRD cooler and all was not well with the oil temperature?? Has anyone else had this problem, basically that loosing coolant and a mild overheat has affected what appears to the transmission??

Root cause of failure seems to be a slight diesel leak from the turbo pipes which has rotted out the coolant pipe - it has gone all soft and stretchy - others beware !
Apparently, the fuelling strategy for the auto Td4 version can result in more NOx emissions, so the cooler is there to reduce that. If your EGR is blanked you should be able to blank the cooler. I did on my Td5 a long time ago.

Perhaps an air bubble in the cooling system affected temperature sensing, and altered the fuelling? If not, your auto theories sound plausible.

I think you mean an oil leak from the turbo pipes.
 
I didn't realise the EGR was cooled. I fitted a bypass too and don't remember any coolant hoses attached.
Any photo's of the offending item?
 
I didn't realise the EGR was cooled. I fitted a bypass too and don't remember any coolant hoses attached.
Any photo's of the offending item?

Only the auto has the EG cooler. It's mounted on the link pipe between the exhaust manifold take off and the flexible section where it enters the valve body. It's quite common for the recirculation exhaust gas to be cooled these days.
 
upload_2017-4-14_9-44-30.png

Screen shot - EGR Cooler is the block connected to hoses 5 & 6. 6 is teh one that burst on mine. I had to send this .pdf to Land Rover main dealer as they hadn't got a picture !!! Arghhhhhhhhhhh
upload_2017-4-14_9-44-30.png
 
Indeed - only problem will be that the two pipes outlets (metal) to be bridged are pointing in two different directions, maybe make up something out of copper pipe with joints to avoid kinked hoses. Thanks
 
I haven't checked the diagrams - but I seem to remember the heater matrix and IRD cooler are in "parallel" - so you could presumably just blank 1 off (although might it constrict flow?). Why I'm rambling is - is the EGR cooler in parallel with something so could just be blanked off at the 2 outlets?
 
Good thinking, it looks like it might be, the c & d on the diagram are (I think) the heater connections and so the 2 metal rails are parallel feeds.

That would be good and remove a failure point. Thanks for the idea, it did cross my mind at the roadside 'to get me home' but didn't think on it further.
 
So - C & D are to the internal heater and so the egr cooler is indeed in parallel with the heater. Before I blank each pipe to the EGR with a cap, will there be a problem with the EGR not being cooled even though the EGR blanking is fitted?? I'm thinking hotter gas hitting the blanking kit............
 
So - C & D are to the internal heater and so the egr cooler is indeed in parallel with the heater. Before I blank each pipe to the EGR with a cap, will there be a problem with the EGR not being cooled even though the EGR blanking is fitted?? I'm thinking hotter gas hitting the blanking kit............

There's no exhaust gas hitting the EGR blanking plate, as there's no exhaust gas flowing that way. So you can blank the water pipes off without a problem.
 
I thought the exhaust gas came up via the cooler and into the old EGR - so the blank on the bypass will surely receive exhaust gas hitting it!?!?
BUT - if the auto is the only one with the cooler, then many have fitted bypass to manual - so I'll give it a go.

Please can you explain what I have missed if I am wrong (above). Thanks
 
I thought the exhaust gas came up via the cooler and into the old EGR - so the blank on the bypass will surely receive exhaust gas hitting it!?!?
BUT - if the auto is the only one with the cooler, then many have fitted bypass to manual - so I'll give it a go.

Please can you explain what I have missed if I am wrong (above). Thanks

If the exhaust gas transfer pipe is plugged at the EGR valve. Then no gas will flow to the valve blanking plate. The gas in the pipe will remain stagnant and not get that hot.
 
Got it - NO FLOW !! Thanks.
Have found silicon pipe caps for the job, held with jubilee clip. Both metal coolant rails will be capped at a stem on each.
 
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