If you had the money...

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guineafowl21

Well-Known Member
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3,283
Location
Inverness
Although Freelanders are generally reliable vehicles, they do have their problems. Let's say you've bought a second-hand FL Td4 for your 'significant other', and want to make sure it gets them around and doesn't leave them stranded. Money aside, what would you change on it to ensure reliability?

My list (other than a good service and all oils etc):

1. Four new tyres.
2. Recon VCU
3. OEM fuel pump and high pressure regulator O-ring
4. Battery
5. Starter solenoid kit
6. Silicone boost hoses
7. Clutch and slave

All the above are known weak points of second-hand (Td4) FLs and all could stop the car from getting from A to B (or at least cause a MIL and resulting panicky call from wife). Except the last one, wouldn't it be sensible to change them routinely on buying the car? The parts would most likely outlast the car and give you peace of mind, which is priceless.
 
If you want to the most reliable option for your significant other, you have to remove the props & VCU - no question in summer that's the most reliable option. In winter I suppose it becomes a toss up between breaking down and getting stuck. If she's towing ponies, then you have to take the gamble and leave the props on.

As preventative maintenance you'd also change the fuel pressure sensor loom to the uprated one and replace the HPFP pressure regulator O rings.

If she's to be driving long distances, you keep a replacement lift pump and filter in the car, so the AA can tow her to a workshop and have them fitted.
 
If you want to the most reliable option for your significant other, you have to remove the props & VCU - no question in summer that's the most reliable option. In winter I suppose it becomes a toss up between breaking down and getting stuck. If she's towing ponies, then you have to take the gamble and leave the props on.

With the winters up here, she needs 4wd. I have a Bell recon VCU on it, which I have confidence in. Lots up here remove the prop in summer, though.

As preventative maintenance you'd also change the fuel pressure sensor loom to the uprated one and replace the HPFP pressure regulator O rings.

Forgot the FPS loom - ours has it done already though.

If she's to be driving long distances, you keep a replacement lift pump and filter in the car, so the AA can tow her to a workshop and have them fitted.

I'd rather actually fit the pump and filter and forget them. Our FL has 120,000 on it and so a new pump should outlast the car.
 
With the winters up here, she needs 4wd. I have a Bell recon VCU on it, which I have confidence in. Lots up here remove the prop in summer, though.
I that case you need to fit rock sliders that are 2" from the floor and extend from the front to rear bumper so that she can't hit curbs and knock a few PSI out of a tyre. Or a TPMS that will text you when there's a problem, not just light a warning bulb - cos that will be ignored.
I'd rather actually fit the pump and filter and forget them. Our FL has 120,000 on it and so a new pump should outlast the car.
Blind faith will not keep that pump pumping. Either get her a pair of hob nail boots with which to kick said pump, or carry a spare & filter.
 
I that case you need to fit rock sliders that are 2" from the floor and extend from the front to rear bumper so that she can't hit curbs and knock a few PSI out of a tyre. Or a TPMS that will text you when there's a problem, not just light a warning bulb - cos that will be ignored.

Blind faith will not keep that pump pumping. Either get her a pair of hob nail boots with which to kick said pump, or carry a spare & filter.
Now you're just making work for me!

I think the OEM fuel pumps are reliable (aftermarket another matter) but often seem to fail after about 100,000 miles unless filter changes are neglected. With the wheelarch pump where it is, filter changes are often neglected. I suppose at least a spare pump won't be being worn out...

Perhaps, if I want genuine reliability, I should get her a Rav4 :eek::eek::eek: (not really)
 
Perhaps, if I want genuine reliability, I should get her a Rav4 :eek::eek::eek: (not really)
Nope, you need a Freelander. These are (NZ) government issued stats. 2005 Freelander...

StatsFreelander.jpg


2005 Toyota....

StatsHilux.jpg
 
Nope, you need a Freelander. These are (NZ) government issued stats. 2005 Freelander...

View attachment 116440

2005 Toyota....

View attachment 116441
Nice one ;)

I'll show my mate, who's a farmer, and uses a Rav4. I told him it was for shopping and dog-walking only, but he insists. Bloody boot doesn't open all the way, it beeps at you all the time for no reason, and now has hit the 100,000 mile mark and things are starting to go wrong. He's now finding out how expensive and difficult to repair Toyotas are.
 
Don't forget to change the MAF sensor. It won't make it more reliable, but they do fail. And change the crank damper pulley too.
 
Vac hoses, brake disks, shoes and pipes, fuel tank support, take the boot door handle off and repair whatever damage you see, grease the window regulators, Make sure none of the the alloy wheels are jammed on.
Edit: VCU support bearings, Rear diff supports, fluid change to engine, gearbox, IRD, rear diff, brakes, steering and coolant.
 
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If money was no object, you could buy another freelander and tow it around all the time.
Mpg might take a hit, but if you break down simply jump in the spare and tow the broken FL home.

Think I missed the point there

A decent jack with a bit of wood to jack off(insert joke here), also a set of wheel chocks incase of uneven ground
 
Don't forget to change the MAF sensor. It won't make it more reliable, but they do fail. And change the crank damper pulley too.

A bit of a side-issue, but did you ever find a reliable aftermarket MAF sensor, Nodge? I seem to remember you experimenting with them.
 
A spare locking nut key. If she gets a puncture, the ****s at the tyre place will likely rip the lugs off the key with their air guns, so a spare key doubles her chance of getting the tyre changed and home to safety.
Or... go to a scrapyard and replace the c*nting things with normal wheel nuts.
 
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