D1 300tdi My first landy

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Flash band's dun't crack :rolleyes: bit wrinkly but painted satin black looks ok:)
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Wow.. that is a fair old project for sure..
All doable of course but there's a lot of money's worth of panel replacement there!
I have a '94 D1 too and can honestly say they make the best all-rounders money can buy. Interior out first is a good idea. You'll find holes in the floors too but it's all easy to patch.
Mine leaks badly into the driver's footwell too- cause is a stupidly placed wiring grommet, just above the inner arch that holds water and rots the surrounding metal.
Have you managed to fix this leak issue. Its driving me mad. Got any pics of said grommet ?
 
Have you managed to fix this leak issue. Its driving me mad. Got any pics of said grommet ?

not got around to fixing this yet progress is slow its -3 outside today and has been all week
I have fitted the lift pump and she is now running under her own steam drives well bit of a wine from the rear i suspect diff or possible no diff oil
shes also leaking fuel like a champ from the leak off on number 4

cheers
boab
 
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nothing done today but when I ordered some gas for the workshop the other day and a 15kg spool of wire Boc said I had a free gift it arrived today with my gas and wire

not bad free gift used it a little its defo 100% better than my cheap sealey one bigger window etc but the shade is amazing the cheapo one darkens down and seems to be the same no matter what you set it to 9-13 cant see much while welding

This new one is like not wearing a mask at all you can see everything and that was me welding in the dark at home after i left the workshop this is my new home mask as I dont take on much welding at the workshop
 
This is the wiring grommet that lets water into the footwell- (in my case anyway..)

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This is after I removed it, cleaned and painted everything and refitted it with Tiger Seal. It's a fiddly job with everything in place. The water shouldn't actually get there, but it does due to the crappy design of the scuttle drain. I removed my outer wing and checked everything behind.
The red arrow is the scuttle corner drain. It allows all the water from the windscreen/ roof etc to cascade over the inner wing welds and panelwork :rolleyes:. The seams as standard barely have any protection at all. As you can see, I cleaned everything, Tiger Sealed the seams, painted it all and smothered everything in wax.

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Should help it last a bit longer. Sadly it's too late for my footwell, there is a hole under the accelerator pedal due to all the water getting in. The previous owner's solution was to lay thick heavy rubber mats over the sodden carpet :mad:

I also drilled a small hole under the wiring grommet, arrowed-

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If any water collects there now, it should drain out here instead of flood the carpet. It drains straight out onto the ground behind the wheel. If you do this, make sure you paint it all as technically, you're making a hole in a spot-welded seam which isn't the best idea. However, anything you do can only help these cars- they were doomed to a rusty death as they rolled along the production line...

Sorry for the thread hijack Boab !!
 
And yes it has sunroofs and I will do that lol any pictures of the copper pipes and where they lead ?

YES!!! - and I have even found them now too !!!
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Here's a pic of the underside - I made the sill closure plate (using CAD, of course !), and this is what my MOT man asks me about .....
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hope they help !! :)
 
This is the VERY SILLY DESIGN of wiring grommet that lets water into the footwell- (in every D1 ever built ..)

fixed that for you ! :D

they were doomed to a rusty death as they rolled along the production line...

And.... we are now saving them.... I'm going to go and pat myself on the back now for a job well done.... No, :eek:... wait.....:confused:..... for a job partly done :rolleyes:, as I'm sure there will be more rot along soon :mad::(:mad::(:confused::eek:o_O .....:rolleyes:

:D
 
pictures are epic loving them

I have been tied up making a recovery bed for a friend so cant exactly do much on the disco till that is done but it is paying for most of the steel needed to start building it back up lol

thanks again cant believe that is where the drain is what a fail

cheers
boab
 
cant believe that is where the drain is what a fail
Aye, well it's worse than that, :rolleyes: as LR's pathetic attempt actually ends half way up the A-post!! and is made of something akin to a chocolate fireguard - really hard to replace in one piece, :mad::mad::mad:, but silicon tubing from the roof, sits inside the copper, which hopefully sorts it for good!
 
That's a really nice fix.
Both my D1's are sans sunroof.. which means they're more or less 'poverty spec' but that's ok with me :D

Thanks :) - SWMBO's D1 has no sunroof's.... but.... given that I think I have the cure... it might be getting some.... much lighter inside - and it might stop her pinching mine when i'm not looking !!!o_O

( that and her sills are about ready for the bin anyway :rolleyes: )
 
so I Thought my headlights Looked abit ****
Upgrade time

so in the oven for 10 mins at 200c and peal it apart
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So Its looking grim for the chrome crap out with the 80 grit
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Two quick coats of filler plastic primer
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and followed by two coats of UHT Matt Black (i happened to have a spare can)
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starting to come together now HID Bi Xenon fitted with proper RHD beam pattern
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this is my LED head torch is behind it My H1 bulbs haven't come yet
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I have only done the one just now so we can see the difference on the disco and also in the ally at night

i am trying to do silly things as its to cold to weld just now
more to come

cheers boab
 
So I have been busy building my mates recovery truck from scratch
but thats now done so back to disco fun lol

I decided to remove the doors and front wing to have a go at the sill with the plasma cutter
found more rust why am I not surprised
so ordered up some
120x60 box 3m
25x25 box 7.5m
25x25 angle 6m
and 1L of fertan
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^^ was very windy so I dug out a box of old 2.5mm stick rods thats been in the garage for 10 years
first stick weld in 10 years was rather proud of that top of new body mount 3mm plate

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I made up 2x new sill body mounts and welded the ends up on the box section ready to fit to the truck

this is the original body mount well all that was actually attached to the chassis
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next to the new one
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just the new one i made
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hole cut out free hand with the plasma cutter dint laugh to hard
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cant believe how thin the old one was i took off
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box section capped ready to weld on to the truck tomorrow after fertan is finished doing its thing
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body mounts ready to tac on tomorrow while sill is tacked into the correct place will be seamed up
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my mate had to move his quad tonight and had no other way he stopped by to drop it off for winter storage thought it was funny
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I have a few questions

I need to know what size all the bolts are for body mounts and suspension as i am replacing them all
thread size and bolt length is what I am after

panhard rod bolts
trailing arms
radius arms
aframe
etc
or even a link to where I can buy them

cheers guys
Boab
 
I use M12 stainless coach bolts for the body mounts - just square the hole in the top washer, and its easy peasy.... :)

I can post a piccie if you want one ;)
 
ok so xmas eve and I finally have time to my self lol

so that means one thing on here updating the project

so I finally welded some metal in the other day 2mm steel coated in fertan as you do only got some welding done before the rain and 40mph winds cancelled the job for the day

so I trial fitted the sill to mark up and measure for the rock sliders and it seems the body runs at a slope and the doors sit at different angles is this a common thing ?

at first I thought it was not flush with the floor pan but its hard up as seen in the pics any ideas or thoughts on it i will greatly appreciate it as it will annoy the life out of me

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As you can see its around 15mm lower at the front and the doors kinda slope away from the B pillar


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The plans for 2017 are simple get this finished and buy a caravan for the family to go away in
does anyone tow with a lifted truck ? how about getting into camp sites do the let modified landys in ?

full polly bush kit
2" HD springs + 2" lift blocks
5" terra shocks
HD turrets / Dislocation cones front and rear
HD steering gear + damper
new diesel lines (leaking directly under drivers feet/seat)
new brakes all round lines calipers discs and pads
front swivels replaced
front winch bumper
safari snorkel
major engine service belt and injectors included
then probably send her for an mot first one since it failed in 2014

then it will be getting new wheels and rubber still undecided tho

anyway I do hope that everyone has a very good Christmas and a happy new year

I am also looking for An ac Pump Bracket and the tension above so I can fab up a compressor onto it for on board air

cheers for the help guys

Bring on 2017
 
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