Engine cuts out -diesel P38

[wammers]

Just to throw in an experience of mine... I had a very similar experience with the engine cutting out on the motorway. re occurred a few times which was scary and unpredictable. Turns out it was a worn fuel injection pump. I did a basic fix by installing a non return valve just before the injection pump and running the vehicle in "Sport" mode (Advanced fuelling from the lift pump) which helped maintain the fuel pressure until I was able to get the pump refurbished, which corrected the problem entirely.

Like I say, similar symptoms and no codes brought up by the ECU. Just food for thought.

Sport mode has nothing to do with fuelling. It is a gearbox function. In sport mode the gearbox will change down sooner and up later.

 

[kapilamuni]

You are correct Wammers.
Existing head bolts are E14 and new ones are E16.

 

[kapilamuni]

Going through RAVE found this under CAMSHAFT -service repair no. 12.13.02
section 24 - Rotate crankshaft 'counter clock wise' approx 30 degrees (page 23)

pls explain.

 

[wammers]

Going through RAVE found this under CAMSHAFT -service repair no. 12.13.02
section 24 - Rotate crankshaft 'counter clock wise' approx 30 degrees (page 23)

pls explain.

It removes or reduces the load from the valves that are open or partially open with cam shaft at TDC number one firing. You can do that if you want to, but as long as you undo the cap bolts progressively it will come off no problem set at TDC.

 

[Rick-the-Pick]

Have you checked the under bonnet fuse box? If this has got hot & failed it would just cut the fuel, then die.

 

[kapilamuni]

Even with a direct supply to 'Stop solenoid' there was no clicking sound. Once the internal plunger removed, the engine fired.

 

[kapilamuni]

Just going through removal of sump. Bit cumbersome as I don't have a car lift.
Another question to Wammers. As my inj pump is pushed towards the engine in full (to meet the challenges of Hot start problems)
do I have to set it to middle, prior to removing the timing chains?
Thanks in advance.

 

[wammers]

Just going through removal of sump. Bit cumbersome as I don't have a car lift.
Another question to Wammers. As my inj pump is pushed towards the engine in full (to meet the challenges of Hot start problems)
do I have to set it to middle, prior to removing the timing chains?
Thanks in advance.

No. To remove the sump you will need to lift body and allow axle to hang.

 

[Retrospaceman]

Sport mode has nothing to do with fuelling. It is a gearbox function. In sport mode the gearbox will change down sooner and up later.

I thought "Sport Mode" put the in tank lift pump on all the time rather than "When required".
It made a noticeable difference to the problem anyway.

 

[Retrospaceman]

Thanks for the info Retrospaceman,( may be useful in the near future). But mine was due to stop solenoid playing dead.

I want to remove the cam shaft before cyl -head and to attend the valve stem oil seals and to clean built up
under valves. But RAVE speaks of a special tool and does not say anything about the sequence of removal of bolts.
Your comments please.

Sorry, I never got that far with mine. @wammers will be your best bet for info.

 

[wammers]

I thought "Sport Mode" put the in tank lift pump on all the time rather than "When required".
It made a noticeable difference to the problem anyway.

On cars before 1999 in tank pump is on with glow lamp or when engine is running. On cars 1999 and later intank pump is on with glow lamp, when engine is being cranked and when engine is running. Sport mode is a gearbox function that enables change downs to occur sooner and change ups to occur later. Used with hard acceleration it will cause harsh up shifts. Nothing to do with lift pump.