Freelander 1 Rear boot door not opening. Low voltage?

[Alibro]

Hi guys
Been messing about all day trying to figure out why the boot door mechanism won't trigger.
Checked the cables and all OK right back to the connectors behind the boot quarter panel.
Checked the handle switch is operating.
Checked the voltage at the solenoid and nothing.
Checked the voltage at the handle switch and when ignition off and keys out I'm only getting 1.5V which drops to 0V when I lift the handle.
With the engine running the Voltage goes up to 12.5V but still drops to 0V when the handle is lifted without firing the solenoid.
Unless some genius/smart arse gives me a more sensible suggestion I'll try the handle and lock mechanism from the Doris' motor tomorrow but both were working when I got the car so not expecting them to make a difference.
Now putting it out there for mockery and mirth and hopefully a sensible suggestion but concerned it might be the CCU.

 

[Nodge68]

Is this a new fault Ali?

 

[Alibro]

I think so Nodge
Didn't get any time to look at it again today but it was working fine when I bought the car and I used the handle to open the boot door loads of times since stripping it all down so not sure what has gone wrong.
I ended up spending most of yesterday trying to trace the fault but failed miserably.
The boot window works fine from the button so I don't think any fuses are blown but suspect the voltage must be wrong. 1.5V will never trip the solenoid.

 

[Nodge68]

It sounds like a broken wire type fault. The best thing is to check all the wiring and voltage in the boot, before the wiring enters the boot.

 

[Alibro]

I pulled off the O/S boot liner and found a load of connectors. I tried metering everything back to there in case of a broken wire in the door loom but all seems fine.

 

[Nodge68]

I've had problems with broken wires at the door hinge in the past.

 

[guineafowl21]

Hi guys
Been messing about all day trying to figure out why the boot door mechanism won't trigger.
Checked the cables and all OK right back to the connectors behind the boot quarter panel.
Checked the handle switch is operating.
Checked the voltage at the solenoid and nothing.
Checked the voltage at the handle switch and when ignition off and keys out I'm only getting 1.5V which drops to 0V when I lift the handle.
With the engine running the Voltage goes up to 12.5V but still drops to 0V when the handle is lifted without firing the solenoid.
Unless some genius/smart arse gives me a more sensible suggestion I'll try the handle and lock mechanism from the Doris' motor tomorrow but both were working when I got the car so not expecting them to make a difference.
Now putting it out there for mockery and mirth and hopefully a sensible suggestion but concerned it might be the CCU.

Partial voltages and voltage dropping to 0 when current is drawn is a classic bad connection/partially broken wire situation. This may not be visible by inspection of the cable.

Jam the handle 'open' and check voltage on the servo wire (stab the insulation if necessary - repair later) until you find battery voltage that doesn't drop. The fault will be just before this point. Main suspect would be where the wires have to flex as the door is opened, as Nodge says.

Also measure voltage from servo earth terminal to body earth during activation - any voltage here indicates a bad earth.

The CCU would be my last port of call in diagnosing this - the main point here is to measure with the circuit loaded - open circuit voltages can be confusing and irritating. PU is purple with blue stripe. B is black.

 

[Alibro]

Thanks mate. I thought since I had metered the cables to the wheel arch they were likely to be ok but will have another look tonight. If I don't sort it tonight it'll have to wait until the weekend as I'm working OT the next couple of days.

 

[Madmustang]

Can you open the window from the inside all the way and try and open the door? Some times my lock jams and it needs a good shove to open or close if I didnt shut or open it the first time prober like..

 

[Alibro]

OK, a wee update.
First I tested my handle and lock mechanism in the Doris' daily driver and all OK. Pretty much as I expected.
Then I checked voltages at the handle switch and they are the same as mine ie black to orange 1.5V and black to blue 1.5V so no issue there.
When you pull the handle the Bk/O voltage drops to 0V but the Bk/Bl stays at 1.5V
I guess these are just sensor voltages to trigger the CCU.

So having tested the handle and lock I figured I might as well refit the handle so I could do more testing a and Bu@@er me didn't it start working again. So after a few minutes messing about I think I have either a short or a damaged cable in the door but ran out of time to chase it further. Whatever it is it's an intermittent wee pest so will probably have fun trying to find it but at least I know it's a simple fault.

 

[Nodge68]

What a pita Ali. Intermittent faults are worst things to trace.

 

[Alibro]

What a pita Ali. Intermittent faults are worst things to trace.

LOL, it shouldn't be too bad hopefully. I plan to stick my meter leads into the connectors at the door and at the rear quarter panel so I can check each wire in turn. Hopefully I'll see a change in resistance while wiggling the loom around.

 

[Alibro]

OK, so spent a bit more time today working on the door lock problem.
First I did as I said and pulled the loom out of the door, put the meter across all the cables and couldn't find a problem with any of the wires.
Then started looking for shorts but again no issue so reconnected the handle without bolting it to the door and spent a good thirty minutes messing about mostly with me in the boot. Eventually I managed to replicate the fault again and after faffing about for a while I realised the bad connection was in the handle/loom connection. At first I thought it was a broken wire where it goes into the back of the connector but after twisting and squeezing the terminals with pointy pliers to make them a bit less smooth and straight the issue is now sorted.

Once again a happy bunny.

So back to the build thread for some pics.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-project-iv-bertie.303953/page-20#post-3848245

 

[helijohn]

I am not sure I like the FL system that drops the window to enable opening the door. I'm glad you got it sorted.

 

[Alibro]

Thanks mate, I'm pretty sure I hate the system along with the crappy window regulators and a few other things about Freelanders.
Unfortunately I'm to stupid to stop loving them.

 

[Nodge68]

Thanks mate, I'm pretty sure I hate the system along with the crappy window regulators and a few other things about Freelanders.
Unfortunately I'm to stupid to stop loving them.

Tis true. There are a few Freelander peculiarities, which are often there downfall. However they drive nicely, are good on fuel and generally don't rust. So in all the good bits outweigh the bad.

 

[helijohn]

I like the Kalahari since I saw one in yellow with the back off and targa off so the rear window is a "quirk" I would put up with but if they did not make the Kalahari I doubt I'd get an FL.