Won't f**king start

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cooperkerr

New Member
Posts
35
Hello again,
Freelander wouldn't start this morning. It had p*ssed down all night. Second attempt it went. After locking and unlocking with the remote. Okay this afternoon. Gone to it tonight and guess what it won't start again. I'm pretty sure it must be something to do with the Immobiliser. It's a 2000 1.8 petrol. Please help. Got a very important hospital appointment tomorrow and it's 80 miles away.

Thanks in advance.
 
If I turn the key then nothing. It's dead but everything electrical works. I'm baffled.


Same thing happened to me last year directly after rain. Try cleaning the spade connector and terminal that go to your starter. Mines was turning green and would not allow the starter to engage or crank.

Cleaned with emery cloth and all sorted

Let us know how you get on and good luck with your appointment.

Regards,

Steve
 
correct me if i'm wrong but wont the immobiliser stop it cranking too? of is that the problem, its not cranking?
Quite right. We had 2 Freelanders once with identical keys. If you used the wrong one everything lit up and seemed to work, except it wouldn't turn over.
 
My spade connector had fell off the starter too. I was all set to input the emergency key code, then thought of trying the simple stuff first. there's a moral there somewhere. Hope your fault is as simple.
 
I called the RAC to my non-cranking/non starting freelander about a fortnight ago. He found the starter solenoid gummed up. Don't know if that's next to the starter motor anyway but worth a look. (RAC man fiddling under bonnet at nearside front wheel) HTH
 
I called my local mechanic, who I'm speaking to every week at the minute, and he said it sounds like the starter connector. I jiggled it while the wife turned the key and it started. Left it running for 5 mins and turned it off. Tried it straight away and it started again. Left it 10 mins whilst I got cleaned up ready to go to the hospital and yes, it didn't start again. No amount of jiggling was going to get it going. Borrowed a friends car for the hospital trip, came back and it still won't start. I've tried some wd40 on the connector but it hasn't made any difference. Mechanic coming tomorrow to take it to the garage. This has only happened since it rained overnight on Sunday. I'll keep posting until it's sorted.
This is my first and last Freelander. This is the fourth major problem in 10 weeks of owning it. Now I know why they are called Off-roaders. It's because they are always off road in the garage.
 
It's a 2000 W reg XEI Station Wagon. 63k with full service history. I've had cars for 20 years and I've had more problems in 10 weeks with this than with the other ones put together.
I've just tried jiggling some of the other cables near the wheel arch and now when I try to start it There is a repetitive clicking noise. I'm giving up for tonight now.
 
Charge the battery

I was thinking that too - after all those starts and no driving.

Switch your headlights on and crank the car - do they dim excessively?? Ie go out?? if so you need to charge your battery. It should handle more than three attempts to start, so could be on the way out. (dont count this as a fault as the battery is a consumable item)

Regards,

Steve
 
The lights don't dim at all even when I turn the key. It had a long run on sunday daytime so the battery shouldn't be a problem. Only the last couple of times has the engine actually tried to start. I'm 99% certain that sunday nights rain has caused the problem, but in which part of the electrics I'm not sure. Also a couple of times when I've unlocked the car with the remote the rear window has dropped as well.

As for faults, the car was sold to me with a report saying it had had a 130 point inspection, what those points are I don't know. 3 weeks needed a new clutch, 4 weeks needed a new tailgate handle, 7 weeks needed new throttle potentiometer after 2 total losses of power on the A1 at 60mph, and now when I really needed it to work this happens. As I'm sure you will know, parts are really expensive. Plus a lot of these things are beyond my level of mechanical knowledge. I am happy to do brake pads etc, and basic servicing myself but when you pay £3500 for a car you expect not to have too much trouble, not for a few years anyway.
 
Also a couple of times when I've unlocked the car with the remote the rear window has dropped as well.

That sometimes happens to me. Its a feature of the model - if you hold the unlock button for longer than a few seconds, the rear window drops to allow loading of the boot.

Hope you get it sorted - many of us do have trouble free motoring with our freelanders. In 12K I've only had to change the rear wheel bearings and my car has covered 110K!!

Regards,

Steve
 
Coops, sympathies Mate,on the plus side, at least those bits have been replaced, they're less bits to worry about going..Hope they were all done under warranty?

Regards the non start, sounds like the wire's have corroded off in the connector, may just need a new connector crimping on.

Stick with it Coops, every time I've had a new(er) car I've had niggles for a time, may be the change in driving style etc, see my siggy!
 
That sometimes happens to me. Its a feature of the model - if you hold the unlock button for longer than a few seconds, the rear window drops to allow loading of the boot.

Hope you get it sorted - many of us do have trouble free motoring with our freelanders. In 12K I've only had to change the rear wheel bearings and my car has covered 110K!!

Regards,

Steve

This post is missleading and could lead people to belive some freebes are reliable and require little attention

You failed to mention the fact that your engine needed a "full rebuild" on or around 100K

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/change-oil-6k-12k-45995.html#post381982

unless you had it rebuilt just for fun ?
 
This post is missleading and could lead people to belive some freebes are reliable and require little attention

You failed to mention the fact that your engine needed a "full rebuild" on or around 100K

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/change-oil-6k-12k-45995.html#post381982

unless you had it rebuilt just for fun ?

Yes it did need a rebuild at 98K. This was because the previous owner had neglected it and run it without water!!!! (A cheap inlet manifold gasket would have kept it going well past 100K)

I only paid £550 for the complete vehicle.

Remember the engine was engineered for 10 years or 80,000 miles (came from Rover Cars).

Its now on 111K and on original gearbox, IRD, VCU (removed as mondo mode). I have changed the rear diff with a new one, but the old one is fine as the noise was due to worn wheel bearings.

I think its quite reliable - I have colleagues with newer vehicles who are constantly at the dealerships.

Regards,

Steve
 
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