Another RR P38 Diesel Overheating

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Landrover130

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Went on a motorway trip on tuesday and ended up being recovered twice by the RAC. First time a heater hose had split, this was a horseshoe shapped one that the RAC man replaced with a straight piece that kinked and stopped the flow to the heaters!!. That sort of fixed, and 26 miles later, the top of the radiator split, both times resulted in the temp gauge going to max with the red light on. During all this the auto box would kick down two gears when I touched the accelerator at 50 mph,I cant see that being correct?.or is it?.This morning driving the RR into shed the message GEARBOX FAULT showed on display and torque converter started to slip. Tuned engine off started again and gearbox worked fine, are these faults connected ? or am I just unlucky.
 
Have you run over a black cat sat on a mirror lately? C shaped hose going will cause a coolant void in the head and an air lock. Radiators on these do split they are known for it specially after an overheat. Replace the hose with a proper one fill the system properly and have it static tested. Check the fluid level in the box.
 
I had similar problems with my oil burner, with regard to your gearbox fault message, as you look into the engine bay on the right hand side of the rad is a multiplug that is connected to the gearbox, when my radiator went bang this plug got wet and caused the same message/fault that you seem to have to appear, i fitted a new rad and dried the connection and i've had no probs since, good luck
 
I have taken the rad of tonight and noticed that in the pipes Is a copper coloured substance, Its like little flecks of copper. Upon further examination I also found these particles where the rad had split and anywhere that water has sprayed when the pipe and rad split. Why did the pressure cap not release and prevent the rad from spliting?. The rad does not look too old/ quite new inffact. so It cant be that the plastic has become brittle over time. The inlet manifold is a black tubular one marked BMW, where Is the engine number and how can you tell the difference between BMW or RR fitment ?. I suppose most parts are interchangeable between brands ?.
 
someones put radweld in at some time. Check your viscous fan, coupling could have gone. Mine did engine overheated and blew top of rad in two.
 
I have taken the rad of tonight and noticed that in the pipes Is a copper coloured substance, Its like little flecks of copper. Upon further examination I also found these particles where the rad had split and anywhere that water has sprayed when the pipe and rad split. Why did the pressure cap not release and prevent the rad from spliting?. The rad does not look too old/ quite new inffact. so It cant be that the plastic has become brittle over time. The inlet manifold is a black tubular one marked BMW, where Is the engine number and how can you tell the difference between BMW or RR fitment ?. I suppose most parts are interchangeable between brands ?.

The rads do split along the seam of the bleed pipe at the top. They are known for it. It is a weak spot.
 
I have taken the rad of tonight and noticed that in the pipes Is a copper coloured substance, Its like little flecks of copper. Upon further examination I also found these particles where the rad had split and anywhere that water has sprayed when the pipe and rad split. Why did the pressure cap not release and prevent the rad from spliting?. The rad does not look too old/ quite new inffact. so It cant be that the plastic has become brittle over time. The inlet manifold is a black tubular one marked BMW, where Is the engine number and how can you tell the difference between BMW or RR fitment ?. I suppose most parts are interchangeable between brands ?.

Most parts appear to be interchangeable although there are differences, particularly around the FIP. Same engine went in the Vauxhall Omega too.
 
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