EAS: Nanocom vs Unlock Suite

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So, I took it out this morning for a long run on the motorways to try and get a fault to come up as before.

2 miles from home the EAS christmas trees lit up so once I got home, hooked up the nanocom and got the following:

NANOCOM - EAS.APP - EAS faults file

PRESSURE SWITCH IS NOT CHANGING STATE,
ALWAYS OFF
---
INVALID FAULT CODE
---

Also noticed that the compressor was really quite hot. Can't keep your hand on it for longer than 2 seconds or so.

Time to replace the pressure sensor?

You can do if you want to, but i would think the compressor is not making sufficient pressure to trip the switch. Either because it is weak or you have a leak.
 
So, I took it out this morning for a long run on the motorways to try and get a fault to come up as before.

2 miles from home the EAS christmas trees lit up so once I got home, hooked up the nanocom and got the following:

NANOCOM - EAS.APP - EAS faults file

PRESSURE SWITCH IS NOT CHANGING STATE,
ALWAYS OFF
---
INVALID FAULT CODE
---

Also noticed that the compressor was really quite hot. Can't keep your hand on it for longer than 2 seconds or so.

Time to replace the pressure sensor?
Compressor can run at over 100C. If it's not a leak or a weak compressor it's likely to be the driver pack as that fault often come up when the DP is failing.
 
I have a DP from another block here that I can put on.

At the point of getting a hire car for the weekend tho. Can't take the risk now :(

So at the moment my plan of action is swapping out the compressor for another known good one and replacing the DP.
 
So, wee update.

Swapped out compressor for known good (checked). Had the car sitting without me in it for 10 minutes to fill tank and settle and standard height.

Switched off and pulled the relay under the drivers seat (thanks tomcatalan!)

Come out this morning and it looks fine, no dipped corners. Plugged the relay back in and immediately I can hear it all clicking away. Nanocom plugged in and the heights on all corners had dropped to around 85-90 from around 100-110 when it was checked last night prior to pulling the relay. All corners appear to have dropped the same amount.

I've taken it on a run while watching nanocom inputs screen and noticed a few strange things;

1. The compressor never changes to 'off' unless I've got the foot on the brake and I'm at a stand still. (i did notice last night that it would sometimes say on when it wasn't actually running)
2. The compressor state says on (in nanocom) even if the exhaust valve state says open. Surely that's wrong?

If all corners have dropped over night, would that suggest a leak in the valve block somewhere?
The incorrect and weird exhaust/compressor statuses, could that be caused by a faulty DP? Taking in to account Keith's mention of faulty DP re valve above?

Thanks all.
 
So, wee update.

Swapped out compressor for known good (checked). Had the car sitting without me in it for 10 minutes to fill tank and settle and standard height.

Switched off and pulled the relay under the drivers seat (thanks tomcatalan!)

Come out this morning and it looks fine, no dipped corners. Plugged the relay back in and immediately I can hear it all clicking away. Nanocom plugged in and the heights on all corners had dropped to around 85-90 from around 100-110 when it was checked last night prior to pulling the relay. All corners appear to have dropped the same amount.

I've taken it on a run while watching nanocom inputs screen and noticed a few strange things;

1. The compressor never changes to 'off' unless I've got the foot on the brake and I'm at a stand still. (i did notice last night that it would sometimes say on when it wasn't actually running)
2. The compressor state says on (in nanocom) even if the exhaust valve state says open. Surely that's wrong?

If all corners have dropped over night, would that suggest a leak in the valve block somewhere?
The incorrect and weird exhaust/compressor statuses, could that be caused by a faulty DP? Taking in to account Keith's mention of faulty DP re valve above?

Thanks all.

Exhaust valve has nothing to do with compressor.
 
I think I'm going to have to fit the valves to the air lines, pump them up and see which one, if any, is dropping then.

What pressure should I manually inflate to to check for a leak? I presume I'll need to use Nanocom to depressurise the system first?
 
I think I'm going to have to fit the valves to the air lines, pump them up and see which one, if any, is dropping then.

What pressure should I manually inflate to to check for a leak? I presume I'll need to use Nanocom to depressurise the system first?
It may not be an airbag leaking, could be storage side. Drop the car to access height and you can pop the pipes or you can depressurise as you wish.
However, if it dropped with the relay out there must be a small leak somewhere on the springs or valve block.
 
Thanks Keith.

I think I'll swap out the valve block anyway and while I'm at it I'll do a manual check on the lines/bags using the Schrader valves and tyre compressor :)
 
Seems the drier is knackered too - the amount of spray/water that came out when I opened the inlet valve with the compressor off was a bit worrying!
 
Seems the drier is knackered too - the amount of spray/water that came out when I opened the inlet valve with the compressor off was a bit worrying!
If there is water in the system, you will need to drop the air tank and empty it out. The valve block will likely be full of the desiccant from the dryer.
 
If there is water in the system, you will need to drop the air tank and empty it out. The valve block will likely be full of the desiccant from the dryer.

New dryer should arrive today.

As for dropping the tank, am I right in saying there is a drain plug that can be used instead or should the tank be removed completely?
 
New dryer should arrive today.

As for dropping the tank, am I right in saying there is a drain plug that can be used instead or should the tank be removed completely?

Should be a drain plug in the bottom of the tank fit new O 'ring. STC3810 don't lose plug though at Land rover prices for a brass plug.
 
Should be a drain plug in the bottom of the tank fit new O 'ring. STC3810 don't lose plug though at Land rover prices for a brass plug.

So just using the drain plug should be adequate?

Also, while I'm at it and you've mentioned the o-ring, do you think it's a wise idea to buy a large selection of o-rings from hardware stores or whatever so there's always a selection to hand?
 
So just using the drain plug should be adequate?

Also, while I'm at it and you've mentioned the o-ring, do you think it's a wise idea to buy a large selection of o-rings from hardware stores or whatever so there's always a selection to hand?

O'rings from hardware stores are usually rubber and perish over time. You need automotive oil and heat resistant O'rings. Nitrile, Viton or the like.
 
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