Arierep
Active Member
- Posts
- 127
Hello
As we know, keeping our Defenders rust free is one of the most important considerantions for it's ownership.
This is why I'm amazed that no more people use the protection method I will describe here.
I'm on my 3th Land Rover, and they where all rust free. My present 1995 Defender 90 300tdi has zero rust on the chassis. I live in an area of Portugal where it rains a lot during winter, and so near the sea that you can taste the salty air in the morning.
Linseed oil is, as its name implies, oil extrated from linen seeds. It's natural, non toxic and even edible (the raw variety anyway).
Historically, linseed oil was one of the most important products around. It was used to treat wood, leather, fabric impermebialization, as a paint component, thread locker (yes, it works) and most important for us, metal rust protection. Nowadays its use is mostly relegated to a wood finish, which is a shame.
The most important feature of linseed oil is that when in contact with air it polymerizes into a "varnish" like, hydrophobic, extremelly durable substance, that doesn't cracks or flakes off. It's also safe to rubbers and seals.
Linseed oil comes in two varieties:
- raw, which is the oil as it comes from the seed. It's cheaper, edible and takes ages to dry.
- Boiled. This one has some adictives to speed up the dring process, and is a little more expensive.
I strongly advise to use boiled oil as it dryes much faster and is not that much more expensive. I buy a 5L bottle for 25,00 over here.
For the application, you'll need some turpentine. It works as a thinner, making it easier to aplicate and increasing penetration of the oil. It also works as a drying agent. Simple boiled linseed oil takes 3/4 days to dry, while a mixure of +- 4 oil to 1 turpentine dries in 1,5 days. I've also found that this mixure results in an harder finish, but I need more experiments to confirm this.
For the application I recommend a compressor fed paraffin gun, like this:
Prior to application the underbody should be properly washed. I use a pressure washer, but go really easy with it, I don't like to force water into the wrong places. Let it dry.
Aplly the 4:1 linseed oil / turpentine to the chassis (inside too) and axles with the air pressure gun. Apply a nice thick layer of it. Don't forget to apply to the rear crossmember and also into the bulkhead.
Try no to shoot it directly to the swivels and to the TREs.
For my 90 I used about 2L of the stuff, maybe a little less.
When finished, one should turn the steering completely from one side to the other. This cleans residues of linseed oil from the swivel balls before the product dries.
The car should not be driven for at least a day after this.
A few tips:
- you can apply the same product with a rag to you snorkel, bullbar, etc. It revives the paint and protects it.
- Dust will stick and glue on the the linseed oil while it cures. It is better to let the car dry in a place without much wind or dust.
- The application with the air pressure gun creates a cloud of linseed oil aerosol. You should work in a ventilated place to disperse this cloud. The linseed oil aerosol will also stick to the windows and mirrors, which is then a major PIA to remove. Because of this you should really ventilate the area or, better yet, mask the glass surfaces.
- Good linseed oil has a strong, distinctive odour that will remain for a few days. Might be a good idea to inform your neighbours before you apply it.
- Extra layers or touch ups can be applied at any time, without any specific preperation.
I've seen cars treated with wax, motor oil, paraffin or even silicon spray, and in my opinion this is a far superior treatment.
I'm not trying to sell the stuff, but it breaks my heart to see nice cars falling apart and owners spending hundreds when there is a perfectly fine and cheap treatment available.
Might be worth a try
As we know, keeping our Defenders rust free is one of the most important considerantions for it's ownership.
This is why I'm amazed that no more people use the protection method I will describe here.
I'm on my 3th Land Rover, and they where all rust free. My present 1995 Defender 90 300tdi has zero rust on the chassis. I live in an area of Portugal where it rains a lot during winter, and so near the sea that you can taste the salty air in the morning.
Linseed oil is, as its name implies, oil extrated from linen seeds. It's natural, non toxic and even edible (the raw variety anyway).
Historically, linseed oil was one of the most important products around. It was used to treat wood, leather, fabric impermebialization, as a paint component, thread locker (yes, it works) and most important for us, metal rust protection. Nowadays its use is mostly relegated to a wood finish, which is a shame.
The most important feature of linseed oil is that when in contact with air it polymerizes into a "varnish" like, hydrophobic, extremelly durable substance, that doesn't cracks or flakes off. It's also safe to rubbers and seals.
Linseed oil comes in two varieties:
- raw, which is the oil as it comes from the seed. It's cheaper, edible and takes ages to dry.
- Boiled. This one has some adictives to speed up the dring process, and is a little more expensive.
I strongly advise to use boiled oil as it dryes much faster and is not that much more expensive. I buy a 5L bottle for 25,00 over here.
For the application, you'll need some turpentine. It works as a thinner, making it easier to aplicate and increasing penetration of the oil. It also works as a drying agent. Simple boiled linseed oil takes 3/4 days to dry, while a mixure of +- 4 oil to 1 turpentine dries in 1,5 days. I've also found that this mixure results in an harder finish, but I need more experiments to confirm this.
For the application I recommend a compressor fed paraffin gun, like this:
Prior to application the underbody should be properly washed. I use a pressure washer, but go really easy with it, I don't like to force water into the wrong places. Let it dry.
Aplly the 4:1 linseed oil / turpentine to the chassis (inside too) and axles with the air pressure gun. Apply a nice thick layer of it. Don't forget to apply to the rear crossmember and also into the bulkhead.
Try no to shoot it directly to the swivels and to the TREs.
For my 90 I used about 2L of the stuff, maybe a little less.
When finished, one should turn the steering completely from one side to the other. This cleans residues of linseed oil from the swivel balls before the product dries.
The car should not be driven for at least a day after this.
A few tips:
- you can apply the same product with a rag to you snorkel, bullbar, etc. It revives the paint and protects it.
- Dust will stick and glue on the the linseed oil while it cures. It is better to let the car dry in a place without much wind or dust.
- The application with the air pressure gun creates a cloud of linseed oil aerosol. You should work in a ventilated place to disperse this cloud. The linseed oil aerosol will also stick to the windows and mirrors, which is then a major PIA to remove. Because of this you should really ventilate the area or, better yet, mask the glass surfaces.
- Good linseed oil has a strong, distinctive odour that will remain for a few days. Might be a good idea to inform your neighbours before you apply it.
- Extra layers or touch ups can be applied at any time, without any specific preperation.
I've seen cars treated with wax, motor oil, paraffin or even silicon spray, and in my opinion this is a far superior treatment.
I'm not trying to sell the stuff, but it breaks my heart to see nice cars falling apart and owners spending hundreds when there is a perfectly fine and cheap treatment available.
Might be worth a try
