Cadillac 429 rebuild

[zen]

ok..i grant you,this is awee bit silly,even for me,,though i have very seriously considered caddy engine in rrc...(cheap engines on ebay)

but..i will not right the chap off..people after all pooh poohed me and my stupid ideas, yet outside the house lies the proof it can be done...if not at rather a great expence..

so..i say watch and see what happens....

 

[fett]

we are

its good for entertainment if nowt else

 

[zen]

however if he is indeed f1 student/mechanic etc then am rather surprised about thinking adding more cross members to chassis will help..
why not design and fab up proper tubular chassis as a project?

of course i am going on hearsay, and standing by to be corrected ..lol

anf fett..my appologies mrs forgot..I HAVE done myself now..very sorry thought was done.sent to i think parents address..will be punishing mrs later tonight..

 

[fett]

TMI

 

[Dr_evil]

2 motors down the sewer british made.......... maybe he thinks american motors are easier because they do not need 3in1 oil in the carb to run:lol::lol:

So the Rover V8 was British and not a Buick design then one of the 3.5s is perfectly fine its just the other that was pre ####ed with a bald cam!

two ways this can go, he can do it all properly and fully rebuild the series and the cadi engine and have it all machined and get perfect (and just from doing an engine re-build in this way I know how much this costs and how long it can take to get it right in your spare time, particularly with odd ball engines and high performance parts and machining)

Or he can do it the way he is going, I dont think it will be legal or safe and if it does work I dont think it will work for long but it will entertain us all as it goes a long

Its a low mileage engine so should really be ok, I'm not wanting to spend big bucks cos the engine was a steal at £145

use ex truck air operated exhaust valve brake ??

Using the one below this

or these UNIVERSAL 3" EXHAUST CUT OUT REMOTE ELECTRIC DUMP Y PIPE BYPASS CAT BACK KIT | eBay

Using that one there, one per bank

never never underestimate a madman....

Two madmen my redneck mate is the one helping me!

I think striking a build down the middle is key, doing it proper is awesome and gives the best result in the long run BUT you might be building the engine so good you move onto better things before it even considers wearing out!

Ideally you want to do like a 5 year rebuild, rings and shells kinda thing.

Make it reyt and enjoy it without remortgaging.

However when it comes to dropping the yank prop twister in the crusty series designed for a 2.25, well, no doubt megalolz will ensue if it isn't thought about carefully.

Either way it's unchartered land if you under or over engineer it you're ####ed either way cos it's gonna cost ya

OR it will actually be reyt and that will be damn lucky

I'm generally unlucky but we'll find out soon enough, gaskets arrive midweek!

Over engineering is the way to go, Dana rear axle, 24 spline front end and an LT95 box or I'll fit an American manual box and make an LT230 adaptor plate up

so who making your flywheel then??
can recomend good shop for bespoke kit..£££££££ though..
dia of your caddy flexplate??will it even fit in lt95 bellhousing??

why not use the caddy autobox?you i thinks said 2 wheel drive..so why use lt95?
will the caddy lump fit between the rails ?or is it gonna have to be mounted high?
rad..???can you fit the bespoke £££££ custom rad it will need in front of it??it will have to be really thick (multicored) to cool 7l..(though extra rear mounted (if pick up) rad will work.. )
power steering will be needed!!
fit hydroboost servo..discs too of course...etc

zen

Using the RV8 flywheel so it fits into the box bellhousing! Although I may end up having Malcolm at Lancaster engines make me up a slightly deeper one to get more weight into it!

Caddy doesn't have a flex plate on it as that went with the gearbox, caddy autobox was sold off when he scrapped the car cos of rust

429 will fit in as its actually smaller than the RV8 block!

Rad is the 429 one he still has it so we're rear mounting it

Block weighs in at 40kg more than the RV8 when fully dressed with its air con, PS pump etc so shouldn't be too much more with just the alternator!

Discs are going on front and rear and modding a fender/disco servo to fit

tinkin abowt it...fitting a 20tdi in a series involves chopping to fit da turbo....how the feck are you gonna make it fit!?
i see some fancy tubular arrangement to hold wings on happening..
steering shaft getting moved...hmm..fun..

None of that as above block is smaller!

if he gets this one going i'll drive all the way up there just to listen to it

Be reet hopefully have it back together soon enough!

Trying to figure out what he goes through quicker........ V8's or girl friends:behindsofa:

Well last GF lasted over a year! Then a 6 month break before this potential new one so I'm gonna go with V8's although I do prefer a GF to the landrover!

Give him his due.
If it works it'll bi' reyt but I used to #### my 3.9 disco about and leave unsuspecting audi's and 'hot hatches' standing (in a straight line...)

Get thissen a decen, standard 3.5/9 and live with that for a bit then look at hot nodding a series.

You won't be able to resist flooring it, I garuntee (sp.) you of that ...

Once the Dana is on the rear and proper box is fitted it'll be reet. Don't want a 3.5 as everyone has one......I'm going different because I can

ok..i grant you,this is awee bit silly,even for me,,though i have very seriously considered caddy engine in rrc...(cheap engines on ebay)

but..i will not right the chap off..people after all pooh poohed me and my stupid ideas, yet outside the house lies the proof it can be done...if not at rather a great expence..

so..i say watch and see what happens....

Oh yeah I know this is pointless but its happening and it will be made to work! Ceramic clutch plate will be needed to handle the power transfer as will and uprated gearbox but theres a guy local to me who builds race spec boxes and I've been advised that a big old transit box might have potential!

however if he is indeed f1 student/mechanic etc then am rather surprised about thinking adding more cross members to chassis will help..
why not design and fab up proper tubular chassis as a project?

of course i am going on hearsay, and standing by to be corrected ..lol

anf fett..my appologies mrs forgot..I HAVE done myself now..very sorry thought was done.sent to i think parents address..will be punishing mrs later tonight..

Tubular chassis isn't possible, want to get it done ASAP. Chassis with roll cage and a few extra diagonal braces and hoops in the front end should suffice to keep it a little stiffer for now! Once I get enough cash together I may look into making a 5mm thick chassis.

 

[jamesmartin]

So the Rover V8 was British and not a Buick design then one of the 3.5s is perfectly fine its just the other that was pre ####ed with a bald cam!





Its a low mileage engine so should really be ok, I'm not wanting to spend big bucks cos the engine was a steal at £145



Using the one below this



Using that one there, one per bank



Two madmen my redneck mate is the one helping me!




I'm generally unlucky but we'll find out soon enough, gaskets arrive midweek!

Over engineering is the way to go, Dana rear axle, 24 spline front end and an LT95 box or I'll fit an American manual box and make an LT230 adaptor plate up




Using the RV8 flywheel so it fits into the box bellhousing! Although I may end up having Malcolm at Lancaster engines make me up a slightly deeper one to get more weight into it!

Caddy doesn't have a flex plate on it as that went with the gearbox, caddy autobox was sold off when he scrapped the car cos of rust

429 will fit in as its actually smaller than the RV8 block!

Rad is the 429 one he still has it so we're rear mounting it

Block weighs in at 40kg more than the RV8 when fully dressed with its air con, PS pump etc so shouldn't be too much more with just the alternator!

Discs are going on front and rear and modding a fender/disco servo to fit




None of that as above block is smaller!




Be reet hopefully have it back together soon enough!



Well last GF lasted over a year! Then a 6 month break before this potential new one so I'm gonna go with V8's although I do prefer a GF to the landrover!




Once the Dana is on the rear and proper box is fitted it'll be reet. Don't want a 3.5 as everyone has one......I'm going different because I can




Oh yeah I know this is pointless but its happening and it will be made to work! Ceramic clutch plate will be needed to handle the power transfer as will and uprated gearbox but theres a guy local to me who builds race spec boxes and I've been advised that a big old transit box might have potential!




Tubular chassis isn't possible, want to get it done ASAP. Chassis with roll cage and a few extra diagonal braces and hoops in the front end should suffice to keep it a little stiffer for now! Once I get enough cash together I may look into making a 5mm thick chassis.

hmm must be running out of points for tax exempt,bit like the guy there was so much **** about

 

[gemsdad]

2 motors down the sewer british made.......... maybe he thinks american motors are easier because they do not need 3in1 oil in the carb to run:lol::lol:

no he is using the yank motor cos it was cheap,goes to prove they are ****e when you have to give them away for next to nothing..:lol::lol:

 

[gemsdad]

Trying to figure out what he goes through quicker........ V8's or girl friends:behindsofa:

not wives though hey.:lol::lol:

 

[CJ2a]

Tubular chassis isn't possible, want to get it done ASAP. Chassis with roll cage and a few extra diagonal braces and hoops in the front end should suffice to keep it a little stiffer for now! Once I get enough cash together I may look into making a 5mm thick chassis.[/quote]

why do you honestly think a 5mm thick chassis is going to help stop it from twisting, it will stop it from rusting and weigh a ton on its own but ont do anything for your chassis rigidity

 

[Dr_evil]

Tubular chassis isn't possible, want to get it done ASAP. Chassis with roll cage and a few extra diagonal braces and hoops in the front end should suffice to keep it a little stiffer for now! Once I get enough cash together I may look into making a 5mm thick chassis.

why do you honestly think a 5mm thick chassis is going to help stop it from twisting, it will stop it from rusting and weigh a ton on its own but ont do anything for your chassis rigidity[/QUOTE]

Thicker steel is harder to twist so 5mm base with a full tubular rollcage and braces built into the chassis should be fine

Either way it makes no difference to MPG with that 7L I'll be on sweet F all no matter what!

 

[fett]

you sure its only 40kg heavier and that its smaller than rv8?

That doesnt sound like a cast iron big block to me?

Also I though a 429 was a ford motor? you sure its not a small block chevy?

 

[Dr_evil]

Yeah I did some research, it turns out its a high displacement small block


The 429 is a size made by Ford but Caddy made one in the 60's too, 40kg is right as the stuff I found online saw it come in at 270Kg

I know its smaller too as I measured up! Its currently sat in my mates garage as you saw and its a little skinnier, shorter and not quite as deep either block wise as the crank isn't as fully encased in the block as on the RV8

 

[zen]

if should go well..340hp 480 torques..

how you gonna mount the starter and make it fit the rv8 flywheel?i guess you might get lucky and everything clears, cos bespoke flywheel aint cheap..

oh..dont use ceramic clutch if you can..fecking horrible..judder,rip the flywheel to pieces and to snatchy...
plenty people who can make proper one that will take the power, though if i were starting again...(oh i am aint i) i would be going for autobox.
they suit low revving torquey yanky v8 so much better than lt95..

 

[Dr_evil]

Making an adaptor plate for the starter so it bolts to the bellhousing adaptor as theres no mounting tabs on the block for it, the RV8 flywheel is being made to fit using an adaptor disc so drilled to take the crank using bolts and then studs on the other side for the RV8

I'm not a fan of auto and they're just too long for an 88" series, if I was building a 109 then yes but unfortunately I'm stuck with this for now

 

[zen]

Making an adaptor plate for the starter so it bolts to the bellhousing adaptor as theres no mounting tabs on the block for it, the RV8 flywheel is being made to fit using an adaptor disc so drilled to take the crank using bolts and then studs on the other side for the RV8

i dont like that idea re flywheel..it dont sound safe..not studs..having a flywheel come off or breakup will take your feet off...
it just dont feel right..(not with that torque)
may i suggest thinking of another way..(imho)

 

[zen]

its why i have bespoke flywheel..

 

[Dr_evil]

12.9 grade studs should be more than up to the job but I may get Malcolm to re-drill the flywheel so I can bolt it directly to the crank, cheaper than a bespoke one and better than an adaptor

 

[zen]

again a bad idea...

re why i have a bespoke flywheel..

you have to weigh up...how much are my feet worth??..yes i may get away with drilled flywheel...but....

plenty on this subject on various forums that mod cars...some good pics too..

i know on a budget, but spend where you need to..i suggest here is one place you need to..

 

[Dr_evil]

You got any links ?

 

[zen]

not on me

google..though some on lextreme..re modding mr2 flywheel to fit 1uz-fe etc..