200tdi or 300tdi?
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samc88
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Heres an article I just found on fitting the 200tdi http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/fenby/landrovers/200tdi_conversion/index.html
I have heard that the 300 tdi is a bit more complicated to fit for some reason, dont know what those reasons are I've never fitted one to a series, only taken one off our disco which we've still got in our yard for a future use
I have heard that the 300 tdi is a bit more complicated to fit for some reason, dont know what those reasons are I've never fitted one to a series, only taken one off our disco which we've still got in our yard for a future use
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NiteMare
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the 300tdi has the offside engine mount in a different place along with the oilfilter head mounted differently, this means either making up a custom engine mount and remote mounting the oil filter
or changing the engine mount (s) on the chassis
it also (so i'm led to believe) have a lug or two on the flywheel housing that need grinding off as they contact the crossmember under it
apart from that no real big deal to fit. i've not fitted one into a Series myself but i know (via forums) one or two lads that have sorted the niggles out
i've fitted three 200tdi's and they're almost a simple "slot straight in" job in an 88", turbo needs clocking unless you're prepared to butcher the inner wing, engine mounts need spacers to minimise impact of the axle hitting the front crank pulley (this can be really damaging and wreck the crank), battery needs relocating/lifting
those are the real basics of fitting a 200tdi
if fitting a 200tdi into a 109 it's a little more involved as the chassis rails are deeper and the turbo sits on the nearside one so there's three ways i know of getting round that, first is scallop a small section out of the chassis and box it back in to give the turbo clearance
second is to tilt the engine and gearbox using shaped spacers
and the final way is to fit a 300tdi turbo to the 200tdi engine, this requires longer manifold studs, just swap studs from the flywheel housing for the original manifold studs, this is an ideal solution as the original flywheel housing studs are way longer than required to bolt the gearbox up
i used the third method in my 109 as i think it's the tidiest looking way to do the job
or changing the engine mount (s) on the chassis
it also (so i'm led to believe) have a lug or two on the flywheel housing that need grinding off as they contact the crossmember under it
apart from that no real big deal to fit. i've not fitted one into a Series myself but i know (via forums) one or two lads that have sorted the niggles out
i've fitted three 200tdi's and they're almost a simple "slot straight in" job in an 88", turbo needs clocking unless you're prepared to butcher the inner wing, engine mounts need spacers to minimise impact of the axle hitting the front crank pulley (this can be really damaging and wreck the crank), battery needs relocating/lifting
those are the real basics of fitting a 200tdi
if fitting a 200tdi into a 109 it's a little more involved as the chassis rails are deeper and the turbo sits on the nearside one so there's three ways i know of getting round that, first is scallop a small section out of the chassis and box it back in to give the turbo clearance
second is to tilt the engine and gearbox using shaped spacers
and the final way is to fit a 300tdi turbo to the 200tdi engine, this requires longer manifold studs, just swap studs from the flywheel housing for the original manifold studs, this is an ideal solution as the original flywheel housing studs are way longer than required to bolt the gearbox up
i used the third method in my 109 as i think it's the tidiest looking way to do the job
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Nitemare how does crank hit front axle , I fitted a 200DI into my swb ser 3 and if you look in this photo seems to be a good distance between front axle and crank pulley.
Is it just when springs fully depressed and axle deflects rearward?
I have Chris Perfect parabolics on and fronts are still sitting nice and high.
Had it over a very rough track recently best check for any sign of contact.
Doug
Is it just when springs fully depressed and axle deflects rearward?
I have Chris Perfect parabolics on and fronts are still sitting nice and high.
Had it over a very rough track recently best check for any sign of contact.
Doug
NiteMare
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you've got it, springs on full compression (bumpstops type compression) and the pulley can/will hit the axle case just beside the diff housing
all i can really see in your picture is the upper portion of it, waterpump etc'
cast iron pulley will chip and crack, the pressed steel pulley buckles, the impact eventually starts moving the pulley and scrapping the keyway in the crank and the timing belt gear, once it's been hit often enough it undoes the crank bolt enough to let everything chatter at it's own pleasure
i reduce the risk by first putting thick washers above and below the engine mounting rubbers, i use the washers from the top of the shock absorbers as two of them give me a 1/4" or so lift at the front of the engine, this will not necessarily stop the pulley hitting (my 109 still does but only just)
the cast iron pulley can be machined on a lathe to remove the rear Vee completely and a small amount (2-3mm) can be taken off the front Vee
i have heard recently that the Cortina Mk3 or 4 engine mounts are approximately 10mm taller than Series mounts and fit straight in, this hopefully would reduce the risk of contact even better
i haven't fitted extended bumpstops to stop it happening as i like to keep maximum articulation, i've parabolics on my 88" and standard leaf packs on my 109, the 109 has a pressed steel pulley and the 88" has the cast pulley, both have struck the axle when laning/offroad even with my washers lifting the engine but as i've said it reduces the impact and over the last few years i've not developed any crank damage
i do have a crank sat on my table that i'd guess was damaged initially by impact shocks (came out of a scrap engine that had been heavily abused and offroaded), it looks really rough around the keyway but isn't quite scrap, combine that with a new timing pulley and woodruff key and it will be re-useable
all i can really see in your picture is the upper portion of it, waterpump etc'
cast iron pulley will chip and crack, the pressed steel pulley buckles, the impact eventually starts moving the pulley and scrapping the keyway in the crank and the timing belt gear, once it's been hit often enough it undoes the crank bolt enough to let everything chatter at it's own pleasure
i reduce the risk by first putting thick washers above and below the engine mounting rubbers, i use the washers from the top of the shock absorbers as two of them give me a 1/4" or so lift at the front of the engine, this will not necessarily stop the pulley hitting (my 109 still does but only just)
the cast iron pulley can be machined on a lathe to remove the rear Vee completely and a small amount (2-3mm) can be taken off the front Vee
i have heard recently that the Cortina Mk3 or 4 engine mounts are approximately 10mm taller than Series mounts and fit straight in, this hopefully would reduce the risk of contact even better
i haven't fitted extended bumpstops to stop it happening as i like to keep maximum articulation, i've parabolics on my 88" and standard leaf packs on my 109, the 109 has a pressed steel pulley and the 88" has the cast pulley, both have struck the axle when laning/offroad even with my washers lifting the engine but as i've said it reduces the impact and over the last few years i've not developed any crank damage
i do have a crank sat on my table that i'd guess was damaged initially by impact shocks (came out of a scrap engine that had been heavily abused and offroaded), it looks really rough around the keyway but isn't quite scrap, combine that with a new timing pulley and woodruff key and it will be re-useable
Dr_evil
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If you're fitting it surely you could just make the engine sit higher anyway, theres a good amount of room between the bonnet and engine. I've raised up my V8 by 110mm so it sits far away from the front axle
jamesmartin
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+1 i allways lift them otherwise they look too low as much as anything else
Dr_evil
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I've still got clearance between the plenum and bonnet too, issue is with the gearbox being raised up to match it gave me that original poor prop angle due to the length but with the engine forward a good 4" I think and using stumpy box I'm more or less running the gearbox in the series spot I think
But with 300 or 200 surely that wouldn't be a problem with the series box as the prop length would be more than long enough given the box being shorter ?
NiteMare
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lifting it lots is fine if you want to chop the tunnel about but both mine sit under standard tunnels and unmolested bulkheads
all that is "needed" is a 1/2" lift to prevent 99.99% risk of contact, so if you only raise the engine by fitting spacers or taller rubber mounts then the pulley gets lifted by a weeny tiny bit more
i like the way my engines sit in the bay, there's little to no modification to either of my trucks that can't easily and almost invisibly be reversed should i want to
all that is "needed" is a 1/2" lift to prevent 99.99% risk of contact, so if you only raise the engine by fitting spacers or taller rubber mounts then the pulley gets lifted by a weeny tiny bit more
i like the way my engines sit in the bay, there's little to no modification to either of my trucks that can't easily and almost invisibly be reversed should i want to
Dr_evil
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surely then you could simply use extended bump stops
That being said if its the crank thats the problem you could even machine a new pulley which is smaller in diameter
That being said if its the crank thats the problem you could even machine a new pulley which is smaller in diameter
NiteMare
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i "could" use extended bumpstops, i decided against them though to keep maximum articulation (i think i posted that earlier) when laning/offroad
Dr_evil
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I didn't read your post I generally just read the OP
I generally just read the OP NiteMare
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yes you can keep the capstan, you may need to have a modified crank bolt/drive dog made up and maybe a shortened driveshaft for it, if your engine carries any bracketry to support the engagement mechanism you'll obviously have to modify that to suit
i've not even bothered attempting to refit my Aeroparts capstan even though i do like the look of them
i've not even bothered attempting to refit my Aeroparts capstan even though i do like the look of them
