p38 range rover air con condenser

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I have saved them, and they look perfect anyway, so if I dont get new ones with the condenser I will fit the old ones, gona pop down to my local shop and get some paraffin to clean the rad and inter cooler
 
Dopey said:
I have saved them, and they look perfect anyway, so if I dont get new ones with the condenser I will fit the old ones, gona pop down to my local shop and get some paraffin to clean the rad and inter cooler
Click to expand...

Mine were fine I just cleaned them and covered in PAG oil before fitting to new condenser

Just buy some petrol? It’s much cheaper than paraffin and does the job J also if you’ve any left then just throw it in with the diesel in the fuel tank
 
JohnnyCrash said:
Mine were fine I just cleaned them and covered in PAG oil before fitting to new condenser

Just buy some petrol? It’s much cheaper than paraffin and does the job J also if you’ve any left then just throw it in with the diesel in the fuel tank
Click to expand...
About a 100 times more dangerous than Paraffin too:eek: I used hot soapy water and a soft brush.
 
Tiz all done now, I use paraffin as its a lit better than petrol, and I like to soak my Series II bits in it as well, and it stores better in the shed
 
Nice and clean ready for the new condenser
The Intecooler isn't standard, I had an upgrade made, many years ago



 
Last edited:
what size are the o rings that go to the condenser i cannot find a part number for them lr.net just show 4 different sizes but dont say which one goes where
 
Last edited:
All sorted now, and re gassed, not showing any leaks.... but it didn't before and there was a hole in it!! will wait till 2morrow and test it again, if it still has gas in then the jobs a good'un Fingers X
 
Dopey said:
All sorted now, and re gassed, not showing any leaks.... but it didn't before and there was a hole in it!! will wait till 2morrow and test it again, if it still has gas in then the jobs a good'un Fingers X
Click to expand...

Interesting what you are saying here : "not showing any leaks.... but it didn't before and there was a hole in it!!"

My car is at the garage and they can't explain why I have poor AC and they tested the system 3 times and could not find leaks or pressure lost. So could you please tell me what do you mean by : "not showing any leaks"

As far as my garage is concerned they do not believe there is a leak neither or that the compressor is faulty (engage correctly) and the only culprit for them is the condenser & drier... But again we are talking about a 1995 Car here, so everything is possible!

On a side note they called me with a good news, they fix my "kick" when the gearbox was changing gear at low speed from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3... The culprit was the Gearbox ECU... Can't wait to have it back to check it!
 
SpacePig said:
Interesting what you are saying here : "not showing any leaks.... but it didn't before and there was a hole in it!!"

My car is at the garage and they can't explain why I have poor AC and they tested the system 3 times and could not find leaks or pressure lost. So could you please tell me what do you mean by : "not showing any leaks"

As far as my garage is concerned they do not believe there is a leak neither or that the compressor is faulty (engage correctly) and the only culprit for them is the condenser & drier... But again we are talking about a 1995 Car here, so everything is possible!

On a side note they called me with a good news, they fix my "kick" when the gearbox was changing gear at low speed from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3... The culprit was the Gearbox ECU... Can't wait to have it back to check it!
Click to expand...

If they do a prolonged vacuum test, it will find a leak.

Changing the gearbox ECU to fix a kick in the shift is highly unlikely to fix the problem, usually it's slack in the drive line or a sticky valve block. Sounds like the normal swap and charge wallet emptying garage practice to me.
 
Datatek said:
If they do a prolonged vacuum test, it will find a leak.
Click to expand...

I do not know how long they did the test but I was there for 45 minutes and it was running before I arrived.

Datatek said:
Changing the gearbox ECU to fix a kick in the shift is highly unlikely to fix the problem, usually it's slack in the drive line or a sticky valve block. Sounds like the normal swap and charge wallet emptying garage practice to me.
Click to expand...

I would not argue with that, however, and despite some bad apple, Japanese are honest people and these people are RR enthusiasts more than anything, they had changed or did many stuff on my car without charging me, not expensive stuff but what LR would charge around 90-100 GBP here.

Also, I have search (even on this forum) on the web and I read that gear patterns/behavior could be affected if the GB or TransferBox ECU is faulty. I asked them to swap it for a test with a old one they had and it fixed the problem instantly (according to them) and they then changed for a new one and work fine... for 150 GBP I will not complain if they fixed it!!!! But again I will wait to see when I will pick up the car.

Oh and the GB received an overall just 4 month ago and the "kick" was there before and after the overall
 
Last edited:
The vacuum test is about 25 minutes... but if the hole is small the test wont detect it, I only saw it because there was UV fluid coming from the hole
 
If a vacuum test in done then it should be obvious if there is a leak as the gauge will show a drop in pressure, even if it takes 25 mins, it will show. The only time to my knowledge it doesn't show is when the service port it is connected to leaks, but this only happens after the equipment is disconnected. I would think some washing up liquid and water smeared over the port will show if there is a leak or not.
 
mutsnutz said:
how do you regass the system i have put a replacement rad fans and seals on and had saw the tins of gass on bay of e but wondered how to do it :confused:
Click to expand...
Follow the instructions on the can. Ideally it should be purged first to get rid of moisture but I did mine over 3 years ago when I replaced the condensor with the intention of it being a test prior to a proper re-fill but it worked so well I never bothered to go for the re-fill, it's still going strong.:) I bought my gas on Ebay.
 
Datatek said:
Follow the instructions on the can. Ideally it should be purged first to get rid of moisture but I did mine over 3 years ago when I replaced the condensor with the intention of it being a test prior to a proper re-fill but it worked so well I never bothered to go for the re-fill, it's still going strong.:) I bought my gas on Ebay.
Click to expand...

cheers data do you know how many litres they take cannot find it on rave :eek:
 
Mine is (Diesel) 1100 g I put some red thread locker on my nuts before I put it back on (used old O rings, it will fill gaps of 0.5 just in case )
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Francesco M.
P38A P38 1995-99 Abs modulator repair and modify
Replies
3
Views
381
kds
K
L
Battery air con
Replies
0
Views
204
LittleBlue1234
L
TITCH SANDERS
How to fit Autobox oil cooler pipes Range Rover P38 Diesel BMW 1998
Replies
7
Views
566
chad2008
chad2008
G10YEN
First Land Rover - Freelander 1 TD4
Replies
2
Views
656
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
A
Range Rover l322 air con drains
Replies
2
Views
1K
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
Back
Top