P38 no response

[TCubed]

Bacause that is the way it is done. I suggest you read your owners manual. Many vehicles with ECUs have a dedicated boost start chassis earth point for the negative terminal.

Haha fair enough
Probably fortunate that I have a diesel then! I use a battery booster though to control sparks

 

[wammers]

Doesn't make sense that you have only one light ie srs if your not getting oil light battery ect if be looking at fuse box first have you disconnected battery taken fuse box out and check all connectors to it , even if your battery was low enough to light the srs it should show oil light and battery light .

It does if the SRS is switched from the BECM and not by the ignition relay.

 

[Grit Valve]

Not taken the fuse box out yet and yeah it's a good boost pack I use it on 12 and 24v scissor lifts and cherry pickers guess my next move is taking fuse box out completely

When you put your jump pack on did your dash lights return if not obviously check fuses and relays if no joy fuse box connections , if no joy substitute fuse box and take it from there .

 

[Saint.V8]

When you put your jump pack on did your dash lights return if not obviously check fuses and relays if no joy fuse box connections , if no joy substitute fuse box and take it from there .

Already asked that - read back, he says they didn't....

I proposed checked Fuse 1....Wammers has suggest Relay 15....

 

[Grit Valve]

Is it a good jump pack? I thought I had a good one but it could never start the P38 when the battery was dead flat. A proper jump start would give you more of a clue.

This is an open debate being a petrol it is supposed to keep sparks away if there was a leak that's the be all and end all .but if you put leads on Flat car first red to red and the black on flat car and then last on doner car less chance of sparks providing its not a petrol doner , but the correct procedure it better the chances if a vapour build up on an open bonnet in an open space is very very very small

 

[Forbezzy]

I will double check fuse 1 and I will swap relay 15over with a good one in my van to double check I'm guessing its gotta be a connection problem as it drove home fine and less than 12 hrs later it wouldn't start

 

[Grit Valve]

I will double check fuse 1 and I will swap relay 15over with a good one in my van to double check I'm guessing its gotta be a connection problem as it drove home fine and less than 12 hrs later it wouldn't start

Sounds about right fuses / relays either work or don't for it to be Intermittent is leading to a connection problem as well as fuse box battery leads and earth straps a good place to start once you have a fully charged good working battery . Good luck

 

[Forbezzy]

You think we can rule out becm ? As car won't unlock through fob has to be unlocked with key in the door

 

[Grit Valve]

You think we can rule out becm ? As car won't unlock through fob has to be unlocked with key in the door

Hopefully not, this has nothing to do with dash ect you need these operating first get that sorted first.

 

[Saint.V8]

You think we can rule out becm ? As car won't unlock through fob has to be unlocked with key in the door

If there is a battery/voltage/amperage issue...of course it wont lock on the fob...it is surprising how much juice the various ECUs on the P38 need to maintain correct operation...

Sort the first issue, by qualifying the fuses, relays and fuse box and connections thereto, before looking else where....

Like the EAS system needs air pressure - the Car needs electricity and plenty of it, once you know you have plenty of that - then you can start narrowing things down!

 

[Forbezzy]

No probs thanks again for the replies I will go At it again with a fresh head in the morning as for now I need to heat up coz its freezing under the bonnet of this thing

 

[Big vee]

Hi did you ever sort this problem if so what was it as haveing the same on mine but no srs light dead as a dead duck she is