2nd gear crunch in LT77

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the_wolf

Well-Known Member
Posts
16,812
Location
Stonehouse, Scotland
I've did the obligatory search and for some reason couldn't find anything on this even though I'm sure I've heard of the problem before. Basically 2nd gear has developed a horrible crunch. Going from 1st to 2nd when cold isn't bad, and gets reasonably normal as the oil warms up. However coming from 3rd down to 2nd is more than a bit hit and miss. Most times the gears will just crunch together unless I rev it slightly with the clutch down and while trying to push it into gear. Oil levels in the gearbox and transfer box are fine and all other gears are fine.

It's started doing my head in so I wouldn't mind some suggestions as to the problem.
 
2nd gear baulk ring ,but the others will be getting that wat 2nd is usual to show first , if its h suffix box it would be the same plus broken thrust washer
 
Would this be the same fault if 2nd gear is just very stiff to engage when cold? Again, oils are correct, new and to the levels.
They all do it when they get old and worn pull away in 2 nd no more crunching or if you try to put in strait in second and its tring to crunch could be your clutch is worn down or not Releasing properly .
 
sometimes an oil change will help poor baulk rings, but not if too worn , the baulk ring is a cone which slides on to a cone on the gear if the cone grips too hard then stick jams as teeth arent aligned if cone doesnt grip you get grating of teeth oil and temp can effect the former
 
They all do it when they get old and worn pull away in 2 nd no more crunching or if you try to put in strait in second and its tring to crunch could be your clutch is worn down or not Releasing properly .

I just skip straight to 3rd if it's being difficult. Doesn't happen all the time. There's no crunching, and the clutch assembly and bearing are new, with refaced flywheel as it had too much eccentricity as tested by my dti when I was rebuilding. As clutch is now smooth as butter I can pull away in second smoothly.
 
I just skip straight to 3rd if it's being difficult. Doesn't happen all the time. There's no crunching, and the clutch assembly and bearing are new, with refaced flywheel as it had too much eccentricity as tested by my dti when I was rebuilding. As clutch is now smooth as butter I can pull away in second smoothly.
just worn selectors pulling off in second should do 1st gear is pretty useless on the road anyway feller , leave it till it gives up then you can think of a rebuild or second hand unless your loaded ;)
 
Lol fair enough.

Well ill dump the oil as soon as and hope that it sorts it a bit. I've no idea what a baulk ring or thrust bearing are, I don't know much about the internals of a gearbox so layman's terms with me please
 
as in post 5 ,baulk rings are bronze cone rings that equalise the speed of gears with the mainshaft ,by been pushed on to the cone on the gear ,the more its pushed on the more it grips till both gear and mainshaft turn as one ,once turning at the same speed a sleeve can pass on to a ring of dog teeth on the gear fully engaging that gear , if baulk ring grabs the gear to tightly the sleeve wont be able to mesh with gear teeth if they are not aligned this shows it self when you cant pust your gear stick forward enough , if baulk riings are too worn they wont grip the gear cone so the main shaft and gear speeds are equalised this shows itself in grating as sleeve is pushed against the spinning dog teeth of the gear , dirty oil or incorrect oil ie too thick can effect the ability of baulk ring to act on the gear correctly
 
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