how to fit rr axles to lightweight

[Dr_evil]

Hmmm, well I'll see how much the local scrappy wants for the axles first then think about either improving the design or doing it that way although tbh I reckon just making up a new set of inch or two longer shackles would suffice for getting the lift back

 

[V8jon]

Hmmm, well I'll see how much the local scrappy wants for the axles first then think about either improving the design or doing it that way although tbh I reckon just making up a new set of inch or two longer shackles would suffice for getting the lift back

Oooooh......never crossed my mind to make even longer shackles,good thinking batman....errrr.....I mean Dr

 

[Dr_evil]

Oooooh......never crossed my mind to make even longer shackles,good thinking batman....errrr.....I mean Dr

Snigger gives me another excuse to use the CNC milling machine or hand mill them if I can be arsed

 

[Spunka]

Snigger gives me another excuse to use the CNC milling machine or hand mill them if I can be arsed

make loads and sell on flee bay
making a cranked track rod may work but Shirley you would have to mount the axle to get correct measurements , then if its not do able you have to take it apart. as stated only weld when sure

 

[Dr_evil]

make loads and sell on flee bay
making a cranked track rod may work but Shirley you would have to mount the axle to get correct measurements , then if its not do able you have to take it apart. as stated only weld when sure

Well I've got a disco to make reference with so its ok

 

[jai_landrover]

I have an casing here thats going in the bin, I decided to fit CV's in the series housing will be easier than this. Jon looks good but no good for my needs I need to run a HD track rod alot thicker and stronger. I wanted to use std springs (less curve than Para's) this means there is less room again. All this means the castor is well off and as it may get raced at some point not handy. I will be fitting early def CV's into the housings to keep the track the same as series plus brakes don't bother me a drum brake is actually ok if kept clean but way more maintainance than disks

 

[V8jon]

It's not as straight forward as just slapping the axles on,for example you lose some height on suspension,it may not work with standard springs and shackles,the front shocks foul on the steering track rod on full lock so need moving,the disc brakes need a servo to work efficiently,disco axles have twin flexy brake lines at the rear and a series only has one,the axle's are 6" wider than series so if you have modular wheels you need defender arches to cover the tyres as they stick out 3" past the body. For me the conversion was the best mod I've done especially now I've ironed out all the little niggly bits.
I fitted them for 2 reasons

1- I got the axles for free
2- I wanted stronger axles

I thought long and hard before fitting them to mine but decided to give it a go because even with the stronger 3.54:1 diffs in the series axles I was still breaking shafts and diffs on a regular basis,I didn't fit them so I could have disc brakes that was just an added bonus it was purely for the added strength of the axles.
Since I fitted them 2 years ago I've not had to replace any shafts,diffs or cv's but the only problem now is the gearbox is the weak point and I'm already on my 2nd one in 2 years!

 

[jai_landrover]

Yea I get you. I have a salisbury rear axle on my 80 inch and the front will be a 4 pin p38 midified centre to fit a rover casing pinned and with ashcroft HD 4.75:1 CWP. The shafts will either be if I can find cheaply stage 1 pair or 300M spec (far Higher than ashcroft spec) which will be seriously expensive but worth it knowing you can not back off or worry abouty breaking it will be worth every penny. Next is to get a series III front axle or at least ends and modify it to take LR AEU5522 CV's