Ok chaps as well as my trusty Freelander TD4 I also have a 160BHP K series engined Elise Mk1 that I sprint and hill climb race. Iv don't a lot to the engine oner the years and here are some bits of info.
160BHP!
Its a K serves with forged pistons, different cams and a Mapped emerald ecu, vernier pulleys, nothing on the bottom end (they don't need it for 160) and standard injection (not throttle bodies) with a hurricane induction system. Full OS exhaust system and sport cat, I think the Maniofld MIGHT fit a Freelander mid section, and the CAT but I'm not sure.If you do a light cam/head job then you get 135 fairly easily. in the Elise world a 135 tune is regarded as most reliable /torqy so thats what id do if I were racing a freelancer
Head gasket.
Don't know its been there since I got the engine (second hand)
ECU
I have an Emerald MDK1, fully mappable and I can read it with a lead on my laptop. It shows me ALL THE DIAGS and Sensors (Temps/TPS/IACV and lets you play with them, so if I was building an Uber Freebie or this would be a real help.
Thermostat.
YES I have a thermostat that opens earlier and also i remote thermostat kit o remove the old thermal shock malarky.
Oil/Water Cooler
This is a good one if you are expedition minded for your Freelander. In the K series the Oil TENDS to cool the top end and the Water the Bottom End. During lots of heating cycles the oil and water in a standard engine are at very different temps. Fitting a water/oil cooler that cools the oil via the main (water) cooling system means the oil and water run at a closer temp. This reduce head stress and obviously provides better overall engine cooling. I run a Mocal cooler, not sure if the pipework fits a freelancer.
SPA Oil temp/Pressure.
Ok this is a bit of dashboard bling, but I have a SPA digital twin display oil temp and pressure sensor. This really shows the difference between water and oil temp even with the cooler in place, which may well make you moderate your driving (expeditions/racing), also is nice to see whats going on. Mine is fitted into the sump and a spare hole where the oil temp sender goes on some of the Rover 220s
GearBox/Clutch
Now I really don't know if the Freelander using the same Rover PG1 gearbox as the Elise/Rover 200 but if it does. I have a close ratio box that id bet would be much better for off road driving, also the clutch is good for over 160bhp and its got an uprated thrust bearing. Id deffo do the clutch and bearing if I was serious on a 1.8 freelancer. I have a light/balenced flywheel but i wouldn't do that as it would make it more prone to stalling at low speed.
I have the 52mm "trophy" throttle. Well worth doing if you have an old plastic one as the plastic once tend to stick on hot days. Mine did hence being replaced.
Hope this is of interest.
My Elise setup was done about 5 years ago and sine then its had nothing but plugs and oil due to lack of time, lives in a barn, gets taken to track, thrashed for 120 seconds then parked, holds several Hill/Sprint records, won a championship, most economical car we own.
K series, as someone said on this forum, its just an engine, fix it and get on with your life.
160BHP!
Its a K serves with forged pistons, different cams and a Mapped emerald ecu, vernier pulleys, nothing on the bottom end (they don't need it for 160) and standard injection (not throttle bodies) with a hurricane induction system. Full OS exhaust system and sport cat, I think the Maniofld MIGHT fit a Freelander mid section, and the CAT but I'm not sure.If you do a light cam/head job then you get 135 fairly easily. in the Elise world a 135 tune is regarded as most reliable /torqy so thats what id do if I were racing a freelancer
Head gasket.
Don't know its been there since I got the engine (second hand)
ECU
I have an Emerald MDK1, fully mappable and I can read it with a lead on my laptop. It shows me ALL THE DIAGS and Sensors (Temps/TPS/IACV and lets you play with them, so if I was building an Uber Freebie or this would be a real help.
Thermostat.
YES I have a thermostat that opens earlier and also i remote thermostat kit o remove the old thermal shock malarky.
Oil/Water Cooler
This is a good one if you are expedition minded for your Freelander. In the K series the Oil TENDS to cool the top end and the Water the Bottom End. During lots of heating cycles the oil and water in a standard engine are at very different temps. Fitting a water/oil cooler that cools the oil via the main (water) cooling system means the oil and water run at a closer temp. This reduce head stress and obviously provides better overall engine cooling. I run a Mocal cooler, not sure if the pipework fits a freelancer.
SPA Oil temp/Pressure.
Ok this is a bit of dashboard bling, but I have a SPA digital twin display oil temp and pressure sensor. This really shows the difference between water and oil temp even with the cooler in place, which may well make you moderate your driving (expeditions/racing), also is nice to see whats going on. Mine is fitted into the sump and a spare hole where the oil temp sender goes on some of the Rover 220s
GearBox/Clutch
Now I really don't know if the Freelander using the same Rover PG1 gearbox as the Elise/Rover 200 but if it does. I have a close ratio box that id bet would be much better for off road driving, also the clutch is good for over 160bhp and its got an uprated thrust bearing. Id deffo do the clutch and bearing if I was serious on a 1.8 freelancer. I have a light/balenced flywheel but i wouldn't do that as it would make it more prone to stalling at low speed.
I have the 52mm "trophy" throttle. Well worth doing if you have an old plastic one as the plastic once tend to stick on hot days. Mine did hence being replaced.
Hope this is of interest.
My Elise setup was done about 5 years ago and sine then its had nothing but plugs and oil due to lack of time, lives in a barn, gets taken to track, thrashed for 120 seconds then parked, holds several Hill/Sprint records, won a championship, most economical car we own.
K series, as someone said on this forum, its just an engine, fix it and get on with your life.
