discomark10
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Did u manage to bleed the breaks? it might be a fuked caliper or master cylinder, Also MERRY CHRISTMAS!!
Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings
- Thread starter GreenHornet
- Start date
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GreenHornet
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- 1,361
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- Fleet, Hampshire
Yeah I have been thinking the master cylinder but dare not believe it lol. Anyhow we will see after boxing day.
Matt Baxter
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- Fleet,welding up a disco
i take it that was ment to say this afternoon
As thats when I will be making a start on fitting my bumper winch etc
GreenHornet
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i take it that was ment to say this afternoon
As thats when I will be making a start on fitting my bumper winch etc
I might just take a walk down and see how things are going if I have time. Bet you will be having fun
Cotty46
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- Salisbury Plain
Damn good read on xmas day!!
Forums need these kind of threads.
Well done, the truck looks great.
Thanks.
Forums need these kind of threads.
Well done, the truck looks great.
Thanks.
Matt Baxter
Active Member
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- 551
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- Fleet,welding up a disco
I might just take a walk down and see how things are going if I have time. Bet you will be having fun
where were ya I was waiting in all day lol
anyway as its Christmas I thought it best to spend some time with the missus so 10 mins later I was out in the garage and this is todays efforts
just need to find sonwhere to get stuck now
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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YES! Result mate!!
But, WTF, you have a wheel-less lift in your garage?!?!?!?! Jealous!
But, WTF, you have a wheel-less lift in your garage?!?!?!?! Jealous!
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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andlover
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- finland (here where santa lives)
where were ya I was waiting in all day lol
anyway as its Christmas I thought it best to spend some time with the missus so 10 mins later I was out in the garage and this is todays efforts
just need to find sonwhere to get stuck now
what size are those kumhos?
Matt Baxter
Active Member
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- 551
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- Fleet,welding up a disco
Yup had it fitted on Wednesday well chuffed with itYES! Result mate!!
But, WTF, you have a wheel-less lift in your garage?!?!?!?! Jealous!
should be handy for a few homers! Lol
Oh and to keep the cars up together of course!!
Only 245 75 16 mate as this was only going to be a bit of a cheap hobby, but now in hindsight I should have gone for some 265 75 16
Dave M M
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Have you read mine yet?! Have you read mine yet?! Have you read mine yet?!
Yes
, I did.... you and Greenhornet are my heroes! The fact you chaps have achieved so much gives me heart that i might be able to do something to my old girl..... might have to brush up on my welding thoughDave
GreenHornet
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Yes
Dave
Heros is a little strong but hey I'm big enough
Dave anything is possible with a little time and effort. After all mine was done outside on a gravel drive lol I would love to see more threads along these lines and rest assured I will be updating soon with this weeks exploits. Mostly I will be cutting arches and fitting extensions
Mr Noisy,
Matt is a lucky git. His lift is great although not had the pleasure personally. Great bloke....
Matt,
Bumper looks superb and I will be having a butchers soon enough. Just come and visit after the pay and play tomorrow. Hopefully you will get stuck and test your winch out.
GreenHornet
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- Fleet, Hampshire
Thanks for the compliments. Keep watching as the real fun is going to begin soon with bumpers, cages and much more.
Anyone have some ideas about a challenge truck?????
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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- 10,146
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- Altrincham, Cheshire
Not gonna be on the road for Christmas then???
GreenHornet
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- 1,361
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- Fleet, Hampshire
Not gonna be on the road for Christmas then???
Everything was going really well. I only have the extended arches to put on and secure the boot floor which all in all is just an hour or two. However big problems now.....
I removed the rear calipers and replaced the rear brake lines along with new front extended hoses. I also had to replace two steel pipes from the master cylinder. One ran to the front and the other ran to the rear circuit.
The fluid drained out the master cylinder whilst I replaced the pipes so it was dry. I filled up the master cylinder and then attempted to drain the system.
Now I have searched around and I found a thread which stated that you should bleed the master cylinder by cracking open the pipes and then starting from the longest pipe run bleed the system.
So starting from the NS rear then OS rear, then onto the front NS and finally the OS front. I did have my young son helping so I think this time I will use and adult but to be honest I am struggling for help at times.
The fold in the master cylinder did splash a little as the pedal was being moved so I felt that this indicated that fluid was being moved.
I will be bleeding the whole thing again tomorrow but if this doesn't work then I am looking at a master cylinder replacement.
So much for a Christmas run
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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Bugger.
Unlikely that the master cylinder would have damaged itself if run dry, but they can be an arse to bleed up from dry.
Pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder is a worthy option, gunson pressure bleed from Halfords, not dear especially if you can borrow a trade card? Use a tyre for the air pressure, but around 5 or 10psi, I nearly popped my reservoir at the recommended 20psi!
The rear circuit has a pressure reducer so it's an arse to get the master bled using the rear (unless you cracked the front pipes?) so get the master bled up using the front first, then roll on the full procedure NSR OSR NSF OSF.
Best of luck old boy
Unlikely that the master cylinder would have damaged itself if run dry, but they can be an arse to bleed up from dry.
Pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder is a worthy option, gunson pressure bleed from Halfords, not dear especially if you can borrow a trade card? Use a tyre for the air pressure, but around 5 or 10psi, I nearly popped my reservoir at the recommended 20psi!
The rear circuit has a pressure reducer so it's an arse to get the master bled using the rear (unless you cracked the front pipes?) so get the master bled up using the front first, then roll on the full procedure NSR OSR NSF OSF.
Best of luck old boy
GreenHornet
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Hi Guys,
Well after a dry spell I have a few more photos to show you. Know that I have fixed the PC problems hopefully I can get this done without seeing the blue screen of death again
Fuel Sender
Well i suffered from rusty pipes, oh er missus, and when i removed the sender unit from the tank both of the fuel pipes split on me and came away on my hand. So as you now know I am more willing to repair than spend money replacing (all previous work not withstanding) so I have repaired the pipework from the sender.
Basically the sender unit is a float attached to the side of a bowl. The V8 motors have their fuel pump housed within the bowl apparently, but for the 200 series Disco's we have an empty bowl. Now for the 300 Series they just have a float which is BAD BAD I TELL YA for the following reason:
On the 200 series like mine the returning fuel enters the bowl - on my pictures this is the clear plastic pipe - and this returning fuel is then ready for use by the engine as needed. Now when you are cranked over off roading the fuel in the tank may all drain away from the bowl area, however you are still getting a limited time feed from the returning fuel but on a 300 series this returning fuel just goes straight into the tank. There you go - another reason to have a 200 series.
Anyhow back to the sender. The problem is that when off roading the mud and crap sits on the top of the tank and rusts the pipes away. so what i did was the following:
Firstly I drilled out the old pipes which are 8mm OD.
Then I took a straight coupler 10mm - 8mm reducing and fitted that to the top plate. 10mm end to the inside. I removed the olive and made this 10mm end screw tight to the top plate of the sender.
Then I drilled out the internal diameter of the coupling to take an 8mm OD tube which was passed straight through to the internal pipes. One for each of the return and feed pipework. Hope this is making sense
I then clamped the pipes internally to the new 8mm OD pipework using jubilee clips.
I then fitted a 90 degree elbow to each of the pipes coming out of the sender. From here I went straight into 8mm OD pipe again and to the plastic fuel pipes of the Disco.
Feed to the Sedimentor and return from the pump up front.
So there you go - a serviceable repair to a pricy bit of kit.
Well after a dry spell I have a few more photos to show you. Know that I have fixed the PC problems hopefully I can get this done without seeing the blue screen of death again
Fuel Sender
Well i suffered from rusty pipes, oh er missus, and when i removed the sender unit from the tank both of the fuel pipes split on me and came away on my hand. So as you now know I am more willing to repair than spend money replacing (all previous work not withstanding
) so I have repaired the pipework from the sender.Basically the sender unit is a float attached to the side of a bowl. The V8 motors have their fuel pump housed within the bowl apparently, but for the 200 series Disco's we have an empty bowl. Now for the 300 Series they just have a float which is BAD BAD I TELL YA for the following reason:
On the 200 series like mine the returning fuel enters the bowl - on my pictures this is the clear plastic pipe - and this returning fuel is then ready for use by the engine as needed. Now when you are cranked over off roading the fuel in the tank may all drain away from the bowl area, however you are still getting a limited time feed from the returning fuel but on a 300 series this returning fuel just goes straight into the tank. There you go - another reason to have a 200 series.
Anyhow back to the sender. The problem is that when off roading the mud and crap sits on the top of the tank and rusts the pipes away. so what i did was the following:
Firstly I drilled out the old pipes which are 8mm OD.
Then I took a straight coupler 10mm - 8mm reducing and fitted that to the top plate. 10mm end to the inside. I removed the olive and made this 10mm end screw tight to the top plate of the sender.
Then I drilled out the internal diameter of the coupling to take an 8mm OD tube which was passed straight through to the internal pipes. One for each of the return and feed pipework. Hope this is making sense
I then clamped the pipes internally to the new 8mm OD pipework using jubilee clips.
I then fitted a 90 degree elbow to each of the pipes coming out of the sender. From here I went straight into 8mm OD pipe again and to the plastic fuel pipes of the Disco.
Feed to the Sedimentor and return from the pump up front.
So there you go - a serviceable repair to a pricy bit of kit.
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GreenHornet
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OK so today I tackled the Arches - yeah me
I have used Flexi Arches with a 75mm extension. These I got from a local supplier - grumpy fukwits - and the kit comes with arches :doh: screws and trim plus destructions. So here we go.
I first offered up the arch to the vehicle with the top of the arch just a nat knob - about 2mm (well he is well endowed) - under the waist line depicted by the body groove moulding.
The when I was happy that it was centred to the wheel - bearing in mind the articulation and tyre movement) i traced a line inside the arch. Once I took the arch away, this became a guide for drawing a cutting line.
To cut correctly you need to trace a line about half an inch above the line which you have just drawn. this will mean that the bodywork will be about a half an inch above the inside of the new arch moulding. Hope this makes sense.
Then get a grinder out with a 1mm cutting disc and cut away. A few seconds later you end up with a nice shiny arch on the floor and a raw edge on the vehicle. This needs dressing up to make it smooth so if there ever is contact with the tyre you stand a chance of not cutting the tyre.
I dressed with a sanding flap wheel in the grinder and then hand sanded with 320 grit. Do the rub test with your fingers and if when finished you still have 4 fingers ( yes your thumb id not a finger - its a thumb) then you're done.
Now offer up the arch and start to drill and screw the top few screws. This will secure the arch so you can mark where to trim the body mouldings if you have any. I do so I need to trim them
Once you mark and trim these mouldings you can then add the arch trim that comes in the kit. This goes around the top edge and to make things easier I put this is the kitchen sink with hot water. Worked a treat. Place the arch back on the vehicle and screw on.
As you can see I have done all four today and repaired the quarter panels too. all in all she looks good and once I have sorted the lower body out (cunning plan at the ready - more later) she will lokk a treat.
Finally today I made sure that the lights, horn, wipers and indicators worked before taking the grill off an dspraying it satin black. I will post a photo tomorrow.
Bollocks dropped - well just two. One where I had connected the washer and wiper for the rear door up wrongly. I had swapped them around and finally I had wired the indcators to the side lights :doh: bugger - another job for tomorrow.
Cheers
I have used Flexi Arches with a 75mm extension. These I got from a local supplier - grumpy fukwits - and the kit comes with arches :doh: screws and trim plus destructions. So here we go.
I first offered up the arch to the vehicle with the top of the arch just a nat knob - about 2mm (well he is well endowed
) - under the waist line depicted by the body groove moulding. The when I was happy that it was centred to the wheel - bearing in mind the articulation and tyre movement) i traced a line inside the arch. Once I took the arch away, this became a guide for drawing a cutting line.
To cut correctly you need to trace a line about half an inch above the line which you have just drawn. this will mean that the bodywork will be about a half an inch above the inside of the new arch moulding. Hope this makes sense.
Then get a grinder out with a 1mm cutting disc and cut away. A few seconds later you end up with a nice shiny arch on the floor and a raw edge on the vehicle. This needs dressing up to make it smooth so if there ever is contact with the tyre you stand a chance of not cutting the tyre.
I dressed with a sanding flap wheel in the grinder and then hand sanded with 320 grit. Do the rub test with your fingers and if when finished you still have 4 fingers ( yes your thumb id not a finger - its a thumb
) then you're done.Now offer up the arch and start to drill and screw the top few screws. This will secure the arch so you can mark where to trim the body mouldings if you have any. I do so I need to trim them
Once you mark and trim these mouldings you can then add the arch trim that comes in the kit. This goes around the top edge and to make things easier I put this is the kitchen sink with hot water. Worked a treat. Place the arch back on the vehicle and screw on.
As you can see I have done all four today and repaired the quarter panels too. all in all she looks good and once I have sorted the lower body out (cunning plan at the ready - more later) she will lokk a treat.
Finally today I made sure that the lights, horn, wipers and indicators worked before taking the grill off an dspraying it satin black. I will post a photo tomorrow.
Bollocks dropped - well just two. One where I had connected the washer and wiper for the rear door up wrongly. I had swapped them around and finally I had wired the indcators to the side lights :doh: bugger - another job for tomorrow.
Cheers
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discomark10
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what if u were born with an extra finger??
Oh n where did you get the wing repair patch from?
Oh n where did you get the wing repair patch from?
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
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- Altrincham, Cheshire
good golly gosh that looks fabulous. my advice would be to never use it so you can savour the beauty!
imagine how you will feel when it looks like this for the first time:
its just TOO nice to get ****ed up, but thats what its built for
imagine how you will feel when it looks like this for the first time:
its just TOO nice to get ****ed up, but thats what its built for
