Ebay Lock set

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Blank keys, no code whatsoever. Therefore require coding to the vehicle and syncing.


It would be already coded to the vehicle from the dealer and only require syncing.


As above


You argued this, then it appears you actually did this!


Is this not syncing the key?


So your genuine Land Rover key was already coded to you car but required the dealer to plug it in to T4 to sync it?. May I refer you to your earlier post stating "And if you buy one from Land Rover it will also need coding."

What was it you were arguing?
When the P38 was new it came with key 1 and 2. When you buy a new key it comes coded but without a number hence it has to be programmed with a code i.e. key 3 or 4. Then you can find out what is in use and what is missing. The missing key is switched off as it where to stop someon stealing it if they found the key.
 
Right, here we go.

OP said he wanted a new key but asked if the eBay kit would be a cheaper option than just buying one key.

He was advised against a kit full of unwanted tosh and keys that would prove expensive to become fully functional.

And I quote "It is still not a bad buy if someone has a broken lock because the key blades can be swopped. My point is it may not be the perfect solution but it depends on what your problem was to start." It was stated from the beginning the OP wanted a new key, not a new lock.

You argued Rewmers case for buying a genuine Land Rover key and made it appear to be the more inferior option, then did that very thing.

Rewmer said that when you buy a Land Rover key it will be coded to the vehicle and require syncing, there was no mention that it wouldn't need plugging in and would work from the get go as you have inferred.

To sum up, Rewmer advised that buying a Land Rover key was the better option, you yourself bought a Land Rover key therefore you must also believe this to be the better option. You have argued for the sake of arguing, it must be as simple as that?
 
"and the truth shall set you free"

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Maybe I'm thick or tired, but I'm more confused now than I was at the end of Page One..!!

So - is this a fair summary about the new/old stock lock sets' fobs in the eBay sets?

1. The "eBay" fobs can be coded to the car:

a. BUT the BeCM has to be unlocked for the fobs to be coded to the car (this requires removing it from the vehicle and giving it to someone who can do the unlocking).

b. AND LR Dealers can't do this as they only have TestBook which doesn't have this functionality.

2. An independent LR specialist with (at a guess?) Rovacom or the BBS suite of software could do the necessary programming of the "eBay" fobs and synching with the (unlocked) BeCM.

5. The cost of your friendly specialist programming the new "eBay" fob to the (unlocked) BeCM will exceed the cost of purchasing a new key and having a LR dealer synch it to your car.

6. Doing all this with one of these lock sets will bugger up LR's database of which fob codes are applicable to which P38 (which may be an issue for future owners of your P38).

Cheers,

Malcolm
 
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Right, here we go.

OP said he wanted a new key but asked if the eBay kit would be a cheaper option than just buying one key.

He was advised against a kit full of unwanted tosh and keys that would prove expensive to become fully functional.

And I quote "It is still not a bad buy if someone has a broken lock because the key blades can be swopped. My point is it may not be the perfect solution but it depends on what your problem was to start." It was stated from the beginning the OP wanted a new key, not a new lock.

You argued Rewmers case for buying a genuine Land Rover key and made it appear to be the more inferior option, then did that very thing.

Rewmer said that when you buy a Land Rover key it will be coded to the vehicle and require syncing, there was no mention that it wouldn't need plugging in and would work from the get go as you have inferred.

To sum up, Rewmer advised that buying a Land Rover key was the better option, you yourself bought a Land Rover key therefore you must also believe this to be the better option. You have argued for the sake of arguing, it must be as simple as that?
Please don't type long winded responses when you have no idea about what you are talking. Rewmer was wrong to suggest it only requires synching as it is not the case. As for arguing well you seem to do it quite well. Shame that you have no idea. ;)
 
Please don't type long winded responses when you have no idea about what you are talking. Rewmer was wrong to suggest it only requires synching as it is not the case. As for arguing well you seem to do it quite well. Shame that you have no idea. ;)

What part of my last post is untrue?. I'm not arguing, meerly pointing out how little you had to offer to the thread.
 
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Unnecessary waste of bandwidth. Read your post and it will leap out at you that your whole post gave the OP no answer or any useful information.

No, but it highlighted that you contradicted yourself massively, which may I add was it's sole purpose and less we forget you offered advice at one point that would render the entire alarm system useless.
 
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No, but highlighted that you contradicted yourself massively, which may I add was it's sole purpose.
How is saying that the parts are not that bad a buy be contradicting myself. The new key I got came from the supplying dealer of the car I bought at no cost to me. The sets for sale on ebay only came to my attention with this thread. I have posted info and admitted that irish came up with more information which was even more relevant. All you have done is poke accusations.
 
I'VE EDITED THESE TO MAKE IT MORE CLEARER FOR YOU!


That's right. Read the ad. " THE CAR WILL NEED CODING TO THE KEYS" how much will that cost? new BECM ?

AND IF YOU BUY ONE FROM LAND ROVER IT WILL ALSO NEED CODING (NOT TO THE CAR IT WON'T BECAUSE IT WILL BE FROM LAND ROVER AND THEY WOULD HAVE CODED IT USING THE CHASSIS NUMBER THEMSELVES!!!!!.). If memory serves me the only problem would be that the alarm wouldn't work with the new key set.

I can't make it any clearer from that.
 
I'VE EDITED THESE TO MAKE IT MORE CLEARER FOR YOU!






I can't make it any clearer from that.
Try reading the thread again muppet. Irishrover corrected him saying the Becm could be unlocked and programmed using the code supplied to make the keys fully functional. You only came on to argue though didn't you. Stop digging.
 
You get a total price together of the eBay kit and someone unlocking and programming the Becm so the keys fully functional, then get a price of One fully functioning key supplied by Land Rover (bearing in mind that you've already got one fully functioning original key to begin with). I bet the Land Rover option is cheaper and the end result is the same. Two fully functioning keys. I'm enjoying the fact you're argument is that strong you have to resort to name calling, you big grown up Land Rover driver you!
 
You get a total price together of the eBay kit and someone unlocking and programming the Becm so the keys fully functional, then get a price of One fully functioning key supplied by Land Rover (bearing in mind that you've already got one fully functioning original key to begin with). I bet the Land Rover option is cheaper and the end result is the same. Two fully functioning keys. I'm enjoying the fact you're argument is that strong you have to resort to name calling, you big grown up Land Rover driver you!
Buying a new key doesn't get you a brand new ignition barrel or doorlock to go with it. When you put a new key into an old barrel it feels very rough. My original point was it isn't a bad buy not that it is a good one. An independent specialist would charge about one hour labour to pogramme the Becm for the new keys and about the same for the new LR supplied key which cost £131+VAT and took 3 weeks to arrive. ;)
 
eBay Lock set. £100
Independant labour rate. £50 + vat
Changing uneccesary locks and handles. ?
Having Rob Edge call you a muppet and end every post with a wink. Priceless
 
Now worked out my hypothosis a page up from here is probably correct.

I'm not getting involved in the barney, but:

I bet the Land Rover option is cheaper and the end result is the same. Two fully functioning keys.

Yep - probably true. However, if like me you have one very floppy drivers outer door handle, a non matching driver's door lock, two rear outer door handles that even after much greasing are still nearly impossible for my young kids to open unaided and a tailgate switch button that occasionally needs a hard push to activate the lock solenoid and a fob that has it's moments (battery is fresh...remote's microswitches have presumably seen better days), then this doesn't look too bad as a total fix (in my case).

I know that the advert suggests reusing the old drivers door outer handle and swapping the new lock into it, but I reckon the "handed" bits in the new handles can be swapped around almost as easily.

Just saying!
 
eBay Lock set. £100
Independant labour rate. £50 + vat
Changing uneccesary locks and handles. ?
Having Rob Edge call you a muppet and end every post with a wink. Priceless
You just don't get it do you. I fix cars for a living and have agreed with Irish as he has more knowledge in this field than me. You know nothing and take pleasure in trying to goad a response. You deserve the title muppet and I will add troll. If you have nothing of value to add to the thread then just leave it alone.
 
You just don't get it do you. I fix cars for a living and have agreed with Irish as he has more knowledge in this field than me. You know nothing and take pleasure in trying to goad a response. You deserve the title muppet and I will add troll. If you have nothing of value to add to the thread then just leave it alone.

City and Guilds Level 3 in Repairing and Servicing Road Vehicles
Certificated Main dealer experience
NVQ in Engineering
Experience in Mechanical Engineering
Experience in Light Fabrication inc. Mig/Tig welding
HGV class C+E
NVQ in Transporting goods by road
Experience in repair, maintenance and recovery of heavy goods vehicles.

I'd say I know a fair bit about a fair bit old fruit.
 
City and Guilds Level 3 in Repairing and Servicing Road Vehicles
Certificated Main dealer experience
NVQ in Engineering
Experience in Mechanical Engineering
Experience in Light Fabrication inc. Mig/Tig welding
HGV class C+E
NVQ in Transporting goods by road
Experience in repair, maintenance and recovery of heavy goods vehicles.

I'd say I know a fair bit about a fair bit old fruit.
If you want to compare.
HND Chemistry.
City & Guilds Electro-Mechanical Engineering.
Time served Body Repair Tecnician. Thatcham.
Degree in Road Transport/Construction and Use.
Not to mention the 10 "O" levels and 2 "A" levels.
And you still haven't been of any use to this thread.
 
If you want to compare.
HND Chemistry.
City & Guilds Electro-Mechanical Engineering.
Time served Body Repair Tecnician. Thatcham.
Degree in Road Transport/Construction and Use.
Not to mention the 10 "O" levels and 2 "A" levels.
And you still haven't been of any use to this thread.

And now you're fixing cars for a living. Turned out nice again?. No once mentioned comparing. You stated I know nothing, which much like most of your rambling is untrue. I've also noticed that there's no mention of you being a qualified motor mechanic either, closest you've got is being a Dent Devil.
 
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