Need Help - Exhaust Manifold Bolts & Heat Shield

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jt_armstrong

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,824
Location
Lake Forest, California
Any suggestions on how to remove the manifold heat shield? There appears to be 5 studs but all I have left are the fossils. No tool I own can grip them tight enough to remove them.

Also on the drivers side I can get 7 out of the 8 manifold bolts. The one I can't get is the bottom one closest to the bulkhead. I can get a spanner on it but cant get any purchase on it.

Any help or suggestions will be greatly received....:(
 
The heat shield screws are a pain in the arse, as are the rear manifold bolts. I disconnect the downpipe at the flange and lift the head off complete with the manifold and shield attached.
Once off, you have access to the heatshield and have more room to remove the burnt in screws. After grinding or drilling the screws out you can fit M5 Rivnuts which work like a pop rivet but they are threaded.A lot of sheet metal workshops use them.
Of course, once the shields are removed and the head assembly is on the bench, access to the manifold bolts are a piece of cake to get at.
TIP....Be sure that the exhaust manifold gaskets are put on the right way round (See RAVE), otherwise you will block the ports.
 
The heat shield screws are a pain in the arse, as are the rear manifold bolts. I disconnect the downpipe at the flange and lift the head off complete with the manifold and shield attached.
Once off, you have access to the heatshield and have more room to remove the burnt in screws. After grinding or drilling the screws out you can fit M5 Rivnuts which work like a pop rivet but they are threaded.A lot of sheet metal workshops use them.
Of course, once the shields are removed and the head assembly is on the bench, access to the manifold bolts are a piece of cake to get at.
TIP....Be sure that the exhaust manifold gaskets are put on the right way round (See RAVE), otherwise you will block the ports.

Thanks Irish,

My downpipe bolts dont look any better but that looks like my only real hope. Had a real go them earlier but they are corroded and have started to loose their shape. Starting to run out of daylight here and I won't get a chance to try again until next Friday. :(
 
If the studs break it's no problem as they are easily available from most good Motor Factors, they are M10. If you can't get the nuts off a bit of butchery will break the studs or shift them !!
Give them a good soaking with Plus Gas or the new fangled freezing release spray.
 
if you can get the heat sheilds off undo the steering shaft from the steering box slide the uj up the shaft then lift the shaft up to give enough room to get a socket on the bolt,or lock two spanners together for a bit more leverage ring end over open end
 
Thanks guys, My plan is to try and split the nuts on the downpipe. They are badly corroded so hopefully it wont be to difficult. If that fails I might just cut the downpipe - there is very good chance that with the age, oil burn and high emmisions that the cats are shot anyway.
 
I seem to remember doing this a yes it is the devil's work , however a lot simpler if you remove the wheel and wing liner . have also been told that this is only on 4.0 and 4.6 v8 , think this is wrong as don't belive derv model has different chassis !
 
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