think i cooked my 300tdi

[Disco-94]

I just used Kalimex K Seal on my 300tdi after doing head but still having a problem with smoking, it does what it says on the tin, awesome stuff and worth a go for £6 or so

 

[nrgserv]

If the block is cracked between a waterway and a cylinder when the engine gets hot the crack will expand letting water into the cylinder, the water will be combusted, exit the cylinder as steam via the exhaust valve and out of the exhaust pipe. This MAY be what is happening.

see where your comin from with this, but as i see it, combustion pressure is forcing pressure into water galleries and eventually header tank. asked the question earlier re hydraulicing as when engine been run and warm, and as you say the crack opens up, pressurised cooling system will then allow water into the affected pot. subsequently when you go to start it next time, your gonna try and squash this water on the compression stroke and the engine will turn over "lumpy", or at worst, stop dead. repeated attempts to turn it over results in either flat battery, bending a con rod, or hopefully (most times) forcing the small amount of water down the bore past the rings and into the sump, aloowing engine to be started.

given what op says in his last post, i think i would be looking at a new head.

 

[Dids]

see where your comin from with this, but as i see it, combustion pressure is forcing pressure into water galleries and eventually header tank. asked the question earlier re hydraulicing as when engine been run and warm, and as you say the crack opens up, pressurised cooling system will then allow water into the affected pot. subsequently when you go to start it next time, your gonna try and squash this water on the compression stroke and the engine will turn over "lumpy", or at worst, stop dead. repeated attempts to turn it over results in either flat battery, bending a con rod, or hopefully (most times) forcing the small amount of water down the bore past the rings and into the sump, aloowing engine to be started.

given what op says in his last post, i think i would be looking at a new head.

I personally wouldn't be replacing a head that passed a pressure test and has just been skimmed. In what way do you think the head has failed?

 

[nrgserv]

I personally wouldn't be replacing a head that passed a pressure test and has just been skimmed. In what way do you think the head has failed?

with regards to the op's comments re its history, and the fact its had to helicoiled.
a close inspection of it would be a must, and i'd be dubious refitting it to one of my motors.
toss up between how much you have to spend on it to confirm its ok, against the price of a new un.
these are just my opinions tho, and its all done thru words on here.

 

[robgeev]

I would be surprised if the block was cracked, much more likely to be the head, I cannot remember ever having seen a 300 go that way-and I've seen a lot of busted ones!
Sourcing a used one would be very easy,i've got at least one, or even a complete engine-but you'd have to take the whole car!
Rob.

 

[rewmer]

Some intersting theories abounding here, so I think I will chuck in another one....
Expanding on what the mighty Dids put forward, I would be inspecting the block very closely. If I may be so bold as to postulate that this is a fine example to apply Ochams Razor - ("cut out all the features of the theory that cannot be observed" - Stephen Hawking ) We know the head is machined flat, but not the block, therfore with the application of some engineers blue to the cleaned block face and the re-applying of the head we shall instantly be propergated with the answer to block flatness question. From here it is a small matter to have the intergrity of the Helicoils to be tested, but I would suggest a different M/c shop to prevent any bias in the results. Therfore, retest the head, check block face if neither of these divulge the culprit then it stands that whatever is left, however unlikely, is the culprit.... "and you will know the truth, and the truth will set you free" Jim Carey - Liar Liar.

 

[Dids]

I would be surprised if the block was cracked, much more likely to be the head, I cannot remember ever having seen a 300 go that way-and I've seen a lot of busted ones!
Sourcing a used one would be very easy,i've got at least one, or even a complete engine-but you'd have to take the whole car!
Rob.

If the head has past a pressure test and has been skimmed in what other way can it be at fault?

 

[Dids]

Some intersting theories abounding here, so I think I will chuck in another one....
Expanding on what the mighty Dids put forward, I would be inspecting the block very closely. If I may be so bold as to postulate that this is a fine example to apply Ochams Razor - ("cut out all the features of the theory that cannot be observed" - Stephen Hawking ) We know the head is machined flat, but not the block, therfore with the application of some engineers blue to the cleaned block face and the re-applying of the head we shall instantly be propergated with the answer to block flatness question. From here it is a small matter to have the intergrity of the Helicoils to be tested, but I would suggest a different M/c shop to prevent any bias in the results. Therfore, retest the head, check block face if neither of these divulge the culprit then it stands that whatever is left, however unlikely, is the culprit.... "and you will know the truth, and the truth will set you free" Jim Carey - Liar Liar.

Spoken like a true Imagineer!

 

[nrgserv]

undo those helicoiled bolts and run it.
dont stick your finger over the holes immedietely.

then i'm for the engineers blue.

 

[midnite moocha]

rite guys ive played all afternoon with various theories and suggestions .
no difficulty in starting or turning over ,but losing lots of water . open expansion tank stops steam - close , pressurises and starts steam again .
dont no how this will go dwn but i used K seal as per instructions in coolant .
says " permanantly seals most leaks in engine block , cylinder head , head gaskets and freeze plugs "
i added it to warm coolant and ran up to temp until stat opened , within minutes my heaters are working for 1st time , no air in coolant ,hold water /pressure ok .
it ticked over for 45min withno prob , have done 20 mile and running A1 , not lost a drop of water .
for a tena thats some good **** , just question how long it gona last ?

 

[nrgserv]

am what else will it bung up?
if your happy with it, job done!
hope it stays good.

 

[midnite moocha]

am what else will it bung up?
if your happy with it, job done!
hope it stays good.

i thought the same to be honest , but im really stuck with no motor havent been able to work for a fortnite now . im far from happy with it but im on the road . i dnt want to get rid of this disco yet so im looking at gettin a new lump from somewer .
im not usually one for gimmicky additives but it has got me out the **** and bak to work earning some more coins to spend on me motor lol
after all the time and effort i was relucctant to tip this stuff in .

 

[nrgserv]

know the feeling, would only use it when no options.
hope it holds, and hope the things sorted by the end- another lump or problem found.

best o luck!

 

[rewmer]

 

[Dids]

 

[ratty]

I personally wouldn't be replacing a head that passed a pressure test and has just been skimmed. In what way do you think the head has failed?

My TD5 head passed a pressure test. My gut feeling told me it was gone. Unfortunately for me I was right.

It's also worth remembering that 300tdi lumps like to melt pistons if badly overheated.

 

[Dids]

My TD5 head passed a pressure test. My gut feeling told me it was gone. Unfortunately for me I was right.

It's also worth remembering that 300tdi lumps like to melt pistons if badly overheated.

In what way had it gone. What was wrong with it?

 

[davek0974]

rite guys ive played all afternoon with various theories and suggestions .
no difficulty in starting or turning over ,but losing lots of water . open expansion tank stops steam - close , pressurises and starts steam again .
dont no how this will go dwn but i used K seal as per instructions in coolant .
says " permanantly seals most leaks in engine block , cylinder head , head gaskets and freeze plugs "
i added it to warm coolant and ran up to temp until stat opened , within minutes my heaters are working for 1st time , no air in coolant ,hold water /pressure ok .
it ticked over for 45min withno prob , have done 20 mile and running A1 , not lost a drop of water .
for a tena thats some good **** , just question how long it gona last ?

Well it proves there is a crack somewhere i guess.

At least its running again

 

[ratty]

In what way had it gone. What was wrong with it?

It was cracked in 2 places. It had a crack in the fuel rail and another in the inlet side. The coolant was being pressurised when the turbo spooled up. Fuel was also getting into the coolant but I put it down to being a faulty fuel cooler which I bypassed. I could drive all day at under 50mph and all would be fine. It was only when driving at above 5omph for a prolonged period in time that the fault would show up. I don't think that a single person that saw my landy run would have said that the headgasket was gone/head cracked. I covered several thousand miles with it as it was.

It passed several sniff tests and compression test (all be it on 4 cylinders and not 5 due to only 4 glow plugs). When I decided that enough was enough and had the head removed it was clear that the nylon dowels had deformed and there were marks evident showing that the head had been shifting. The head was pressure tested and skimmed and re-fitted. They fuel cooler was also re-connected at this point.

I still felt that it wasn't 100% right even then and after 6 months I took it back to the engineers to get it re-tested. Again it passed several sniff and compression tests. It still had diesel in the coolant but seeing as the 'faulty' fuel cooler was connected I wasn't surprised. After 9 months I got fed up and had the head removed and tested again. This time they heated the head up more and the cracks finally showed up.

Just cos it passes a test, it don't mean it aint broke. It just goes to show that sometimes your own gut feeling is better than any scientific test.

 

[Dids]

Finally, an answer rather than just saying it's the head with no reason. I still don't think it is the head on the vehicle in question though which isn't a td5 either. May I add this is my personal opinion and I'm more than willing to be proven wrong.