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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

Quite a common issue is rattling Brake Disc Shields....

Sounds like an exhaust rattle, but it is just where the shield is bolted on and over time the shield metal corrodes around the washer, no doubt through dissimilar metal corrosion, and becomes loose and rattles ...

The fix is dead simple – Large Washers....

The job is simple, unless the Brake Disc haven’t been off in 10 years along with the Calliper Bracket Bolts – that makes things a little ‘interesting’....

Well on Friday evening on the way home with a window open, I noticed the tell tale rattle...time to do mine by the sounds of it. A quick turn to lock, and a feel behind each wheel revealed the Drivers side was infact loose, the Passengers side can wait a while for better weather.

So after work I got home about 4.30pm, and only had very little daylight left – hence why some of the photos are a little dark, I was trying to take them wearing a head torch and my iPhone which doesn’t have a flash cos it is an old one!

Required tools:
Wheel nut spanner
5/8 Socket (Calliper Bracket)
Ratchet to suit Sockets
7mm Allen Key (Calliper Slide Pins)
6mm Allen Key (Disc Retaining Screw)
11mm Spanner (Brake Bleed Nipple)
Long Nose Pliers
Hammer and Wood
Copper Grease
Breaking Bar
10mm Spanner (Brake Disc Shield Bolts)
Large Washers to fit M8 bolts

Loosen Wheel Nuts, Jack up vehicle, Secure on Stand, Remove Road Wheel....


Liberally spray the Calliper Bracket Bolts with penetrating fluid...


Using a lever and pliers, remove the Calliper retaining spring...


Using a lever, put pressure on the brake pads and open the bleed nipple, lever the pads off the disc. While maintaining pressure on the pads and with fluid still running out of the bleed nipple, close the nipple securely and then release...
Parts Recall


Parts Recall for Rear Propeller Shaft Flexible Coupling Part Number TVF100010 installed on Discovery 1, Discovery 2, Range Rover and Range Rover Classic Models for Model Years 1995-2004

Rear Propeller Shaft Flexible Coupling Part Number TVF 100010 After Market Parts Safety Issue

Land Rover is undertaking a no-charge Recall (Programme Number P024) that affects a small number of third party-manufactured rear propeller shaft flexible couplings sold between April 2011 and February 2012. The rear propeller shaft flexible couplings involved in this Recall could have been installed on Discovery 1, Discovery 2, Range Rover and Range Rover Classic Models for Model Years 1995-2004. If you have had one of these third party parts fitted to one of your vehicles, you may be affected.

Reason for this programme
A concern has been identified with a number of rear propeller shaft flexible couplings sold between April 2011 and February 2012. The affected parts may not have been manufactured to the required Land Rover specification.

Should a defective part be installed, increased levels of drive line vibration will be experienced, if this warning sign is ignored, the coupling will likely fail leading to loss of drive and, for automatic transmission vehicles, loss of the transmission effectiveness. Furthermore, should the coupling separate, the rear propeller shaft can detach from the vehicle. These conditions increase the risk or accident or injury.

What Land Rover and your dealer will do
Land Rover is carrying out a voluntary recall of the parts mentioned above. The Land Rover Approved Service Centre will inspect affected vehicles or if the part has not yet been fitted to the vehicle they will inspect the part and replace as necessary.

How long will it take?
The work will be carried out as quickly and efficiently as possible in order to minimize...
Hi all,
I'm taking pics step by step of my swivel replacement using the Britpart DA3181 kit.
The kit was from Paddocks at £69.57+vat

DA3181 | Swivel Housing Kit (later type with steering arm on the bottom - from mid 1960s)

This is what you get:
(library pic)

First off put front axle on stands, I was replacing brake cylinders so I stripped all brake parts off:

Next I had to remove free wheeling hubs so I marked em up

and took cap off by undoing ring if Philip head screws, 6 of them:
I then needed to put the gear back in to stop drive shaft turning when taking nut off, take split pin out of case and unscrew mechanism-put it back on shaft:

remove castel nutand pull hub away:

bend back washer and remove stub nuts, making note of order and pull off stub:


to reveal:...
I hope this simple how to is useful to others on the forum, changing the air filter is straightforward. I've written it up here on my site: https://fixitfriends.com/fixits/land-rover-freelander-2-or-lr2-air-filter-replacement-or-upgrade
This post provides links to download the Freelander 2 repair manual for free. Free as in you don't pay for it. There are a number of people selling the same free repair manual on e.bay. Don't be fooled by their advertising. They're charging you for the same information you get here for free.

Freelander 2 repair manual and wiring diagrams 2006 - 2010 available in the link below:
These are free to download.

Freelander 2 = Freelander 2 repair manual and wiring diagrams 2006 - 2010

Click the link above to open the download screen. If it asks you to login, select the "no thanks..." option at the bottom of the login form. Then click the download arrow, and select "direct download". Example screen shots below. You may need to click "no thanks..." and the download arrow then "direct download" a second time for it to work.



The above download is from a new site I've only just started to use. I hope it will work for everyone.

This manual is free to download. 3229 pages of pdf manual. 291mb in size.

If the download stops working tell me. It may intermittently stop working occasionally.
Why would this happen? Free storage on the web doesn't last for ever. My free access may expire. The web site may close as they no longer want to offer online storage. I might delete it by mistake.

If you copy this post to another forum, have the decency to acknowledge you copied the idea from Landyzone. If you point them to this post they can use the same download link. If the link stops working I will fix it or store it on another web site, and update this post.

If anyone else has a similar manual for land rover products then please tell me. I would like to...
After repairing the cruise control on my Disco 1 I decided to put all the information in one place...! This is what I did to repair my cruise control, use the information contained at your own will. I cannot be held responsible.

Cruise control system layout:

The mechanical side of the cruise control uses vacuum operated 'bellows' to pull open the throttle and adjust your speed. It does not run off engine vacuum, it has a separate pump, located behind the near side headlight below the jack. From there a pipe runs down the near side inner wing to a 'T' behind the washer bottle. 1 port on the 'T' goes to the bellows on the throttle body, the other leg of the 'T' then runs along the firewall and into the cabin just above the pedal box to the brake pedal switch.

The electronic module is located behind the glove box, next to the ABS module.


The cruise control system is a Hella system and was fitted to many cars, if your searching for parts in a scrap yard also look at 80's & 90's Audi's Volvo's VW's Jag's Citroen's Merc's & BMW's! The module part numbers are Landrover AVR 1173 Hella 5GA-004-397-**

Mechanical diagnostics:

95% of all cruise control problems are due to a vacuum leak somewhere in the system, usually on one of the joints, the rubber pipes perish and crack. Either cut the ends off or just replace them all, the pipe is cheap enough. Also check the bellows on the throttle body, they can crack and leak. The brake pedal valve also has been known to leak. A classic sign of leaky pipes or bellows is the cruise control gets progressively lazy at holding speed until you get to a point when it just won't hold speed at all. I saw one that would hold speed on the flat but on a slight incline would slow down, the bellows had a pin hole in it, we repaired it with a bike puncture repair kit.

Electronic diagnostics:

If your engine check light is on then cruise control is disabled so check that...
I am a big fan of Preventative Maintenance - makes my life easier, the ability to try and spot potential faults or failures in advance and also prevents further damage to other components.

A couple of weeks ago in the very hot weather we have had (not that the recent days have been any better) but on the long slog between Guildford Train Station and the A31 Hogs Back which is a few miles long up a moderate but steady gradient after being stuck in Guildford town centre traffic and stop start driving popping into B&Q, Wickes, Tile Warehouse.....etc etc etc, the Gearbox went into its cooling stratergy, it holds the lower gears and prevents upshifts to raise engine revs and as such gearbox pump speed to try and circulate as much fluid through the cooler as possible to reduce box temperature.

This process is totally normal and should prevent the dreaded TRANS. OVERHEAT warning....if you ge tthat - you have issues that require looking at ASAP to try and save the box!

In a over a year of ownership, this is the first time it has ever gone into the Cool Down stratergy and hasn't done it since.

Last week on my girlfriends birthday, we went to Woburn Safari Park (we go every year on her birthday, she loves the place) and we spent 8 hours crawling around in 27degC heat, A/C on (off whenever we had the windows open in the pens were we weren't going to get eaten!) stopping and starting, hills, no shade etc and she never even murmoured, gearbox fine, cooling system fine.

BUT, taking note of the cooling stratergy and the reports that the oil cooler is only just capable of the job, I thought best to replace it in anycase and whilst I was there also replace the Cooler thermostat and back plate too.

The Back Plate is plastic and over years of heating and cooling, can become brittle and leak coolant - this is apparently a common fail item (what isn't on these things?) so for the sake of another £30 odd best replace it.

The Thermostat has been known to fail, I wouldn't...

Replacing a diff pinion oil seal on Rover axles.

First take out the fill plug for your axle (just to check it will come out!) then take out the drain axle and let the oil drain into a suitable container.

Then remove the propshaft by undoing the 4 bolts holding it to the diff output flange. I found a propshaft tool wasn’t that easier than 2 spanners to be honest. Tie it up securely out of the way.
You should then see this, straighten and pull the split pin out.

Undo that big nut, it’s a 1 inch jobbie and should be farking tight. I used a big breaker bar and a wrench on the flange to hold it still. DO NOT tug on it if you have half the vehicle on axle stands as tugging this nut causes the vehicle to move and it could come down on you head and kill you. I had all 4 wheels on the floor for this, wheels chocked.
When the nut is off it will look like this

Pull of the drive flange, it should come off by hand, if not encourage it with a rubber mallet. Make a note of the order of any washers/spacers that come off with it. Now you can see the drive splines and the seal itself. I have lots of splines, some people might only have 4 chunky ones. That’s fine. My seal looks ok but the inner lip was quite worn. Have a look at your drive flange you just removed, make sure the surface the seal runs on is smooth and clean, if its pitted or ridged it will need replacing....
Hi Chaps,

Just though those of you of a pre 1960 motoring disposition may be interested as you may not have come up for renewal yet.

My Road Fund License renewal came through the post this month for my 1952 80".

When I tried to tax it on-line the site informed me that I could not proceed as there was no valid MOT certificate in the system for the vehicle for the date of renewal.

Quite correct, my current MOT is due to expire on the 19th June.

However the date of 1st registration on my V5 is clearly 1st March 1952.

When I mentioned this on the LRSOC forum 233ac pointed me to the "Declaration of exemption from MOT testing" form "V112" on the DFT website

Downloadable forms

Scroll down and download the V112, fill it out and present it in absentia of your MOT certificate.

I just taxed my 80" for another year for the delightful sum of £0. In fact in total it cost me 50p to park in town.

That said, I will still at some stage in the not too distant future present SFF at an MOT testing station for my own peace of mind, I just don't think I will have the opportunity this month.
Anti Burst locks as used on 'fenders can befitted to Series doors with minor modications...


395038 - door handle
395037 - door handle
FQB000050 - anti burst catch
FQB000040 - anti burst catch
395056 - locks

Door... Needs an extra hole drilling in it for the lock, best to take the old lock out and line up the new lock to work out where the hole is... I didn't really do a very good job at this...



On mine (which i'm now thinking might be bent...) the drivers side doesn't line up just bolting the new catch in place of the old one...


However, using one of the spaces from the old catches does the job perfectly:


Door needs a gentle shut to securely shut, however ,a proper little slam for the lock to fully engage and allow it to be locked.

For some reason my passenger side catch needed recessing, so, i cut a hole for it with the dremel...


The bottom slots in and bolts as normal, but i used a longer M10 bolt at the top to brace it against the back of the bulkhead......