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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

My handbrake cable ('04 Def TD5) has been sticking for a while, and i'm pretty sure it was on the way out for quite a time. It snapped last Wednesday, so after a bit of checking around, decision was made to get a new OE one. Online price was found to be the same as the stealer price, so collected one from the local stealer yesterday - the last one in stock. £81.00.

This morning, changed it.
With the vehicle chocked and also parked against a low wall:first gear selected and left.

I started with removing the handbrake end. Fold up the handbrake cover, and remove the clevis pin and disconnect the handbrake sensor switch.
Remove the top and bottom bolts (10mm) securing the handbrake lever assembly, and ease it gently forwards. The rubber grommet on the sensor wire can be squeezed out, and the entire wire set aside. This let me get at and remove the end of the old cable by squeezing the end of the rubber piece using pump pliers and forcing it out of the hole.

Next, with the handbrake lever removed from the vehicle, clean it up if needed and lubicate moving parts that need it. Spray the rubber piece at the end of the handbrake cable very liberally with silcone lubricant, and quickly push the end through and into the handbrake assembly. I had to push it VERY hard to get it in, and it would be impossible without the silicone lube. I also ran some lube onto the cable down inside the sheath at this point.

Postiion the handbrake lever assy back in the vehicle, and carefully feed the other end of the cable through the bodywork hole, and put the sensor wire back in place before securing the entire assembly. I temporarily put the clevis pin back into the cable BEFORE I started doing this, to make sure the cable doesn't get twisted up. You can see the new cable beside the old in my pictures.
The handbrake assembly should be properly bolted into place, and then fix the clevis pin in permanently replacing the washer and split pin to secure it. Leave the cover up for now...
For 'How to's...' not 'How do I's...'
For 'How To's...' not 'How do I's...'
For 'How To's...' not 'How Do I's..'
For 'how to's..' not 'how do I's...'
For 'how to' guides only not 'how do I...'
Quite a common issue is rattling Brake Disc Shields....

Sounds like an exhaust rattle, but it is just where the shield is bolted on and over time the shield metal corrodes around the washer, no doubt through dissimilar metal corrosion, and becomes loose and rattles ...

The fix is dead simple – Large Washers....

The job is simple, unless the Brake Disc haven’t been off in 10 years along with the Calliper Bracket Bolts – that makes things a little ‘interesting’....

Well on Friday evening on the way home with a window open, I noticed the tell tale rattle...time to do mine by the sounds of it. A quick turn to lock, and a feel behind each wheel revealed the Drivers side was infact loose, the Passengers side can wait a while for better weather.

So after work I got home about 4.30pm, and only had very little daylight left – hence why some of the photos are a little dark, I was trying to take them wearing a head torch and my iPhone which doesn’t have a flash cos it is an old one!

Required tools:
Wheel nut spanner
5/8 Socket (Calliper Bracket)
Ratchet to suit Sockets
7mm Allen Key (Calliper Slide Pins)
6mm Allen Key (Disc Retaining Screw)
11mm Spanner (Brake Bleed Nipple)
Long Nose Pliers
Hammer and Wood
Copper Grease
Breaking Bar
10mm Spanner (Brake Disc Shield Bolts)
Large Washers to fit M8 bolts

Loosen Wheel Nuts, Jack up vehicle, Secure on Stand, Remove Road Wheel....


Liberally spray the Calliper Bracket Bolts with penetrating fluid...


Using a lever and pliers, remove the Calliper retaining spring...


Using a lever, put pressure on the brake pads and open the bleed nipple, lever the pads off the disc. While maintaining pressure on the pads and with fluid still running out of the bleed nipple, close the nipple securely and then release...
Parts Recall


Parts Recall for Rear Propeller Shaft Flexible Coupling Part Number TVF100010 installed on Discovery 1, Discovery 2, Range Rover and Range Rover Classic Models for Model Years 1995-2004

Rear Propeller Shaft Flexible Coupling Part Number TVF 100010 After Market Parts Safety Issue

Land Rover is undertaking a no-charge Recall (Programme Number P024) that affects a small number of third party-manufactured rear propeller shaft flexible couplings sold between April 2011 and February 2012. The rear propeller shaft flexible couplings involved in this Recall could have been installed on Discovery 1, Discovery 2, Range Rover and Range Rover Classic Models for Model Years 1995-2004. If you have had one of these third party parts fitted to one of your vehicles, you may be affected.

Reason for this programme
A concern has been identified with a number of rear propeller shaft flexible couplings sold between April 2011 and February 2012. The affected parts may not have been manufactured to the required Land Rover specification.

Should a defective part be installed, increased levels of drive line vibration will be experienced, if this warning sign is ignored, the coupling will likely fail leading to loss of drive and, for automatic transmission vehicles, loss of the transmission effectiveness. Furthermore, should the coupling separate, the rear propeller shaft can detach from the vehicle. These conditions increase the risk or accident or injury.

What Land Rover and your dealer will do
Land Rover is carrying out a voluntary recall of the parts mentioned above. The Land Rover Approved Service Centre will inspect affected vehicles or if the part has not yet been fitted to the vehicle they will inspect the part and replace as necessary.

How long will it take?
The work will be carried out as quickly and efficiently as possible in order to minimize...
Hi all,
I'm taking pics step by step of my swivel replacement using the Britpart DA3181 kit.
The kit was from Paddocks at £69.57+vat

DA3181 | Swivel Housing Kit (later type with steering arm on the bottom - from mid 1960s)

This is what you get:
(library pic)

First off put front axle on stands, I was replacing brake cylinders so I stripped all brake parts off:

Next I had to remove free wheeling hubs so I marked em up

and took cap off by undoing ring if Philip head screws, 6 of them:
I then needed to put the gear back in to stop drive shaft turning when taking nut off, take split pin out of case and unscrew mechanism-put it back on shaft:

remove castel nutand pull hub away:

bend back washer and remove stub nuts, making note of order and pull off stub:


to reveal:...
I hope this simple how to is useful to others on the forum, changing the air filter is straightforward. I've written it up here on my site: https://fixitfriends.com/fixits/land-rover-freelander-2-or-lr2-air-filter-replacement-or-upgrade