1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

First an acknowledgement. All this information is out there, I just don't like the way it is presented. Here I will give you my thoughts and procedure for modifying, tuning and monitoring your 200tdi engine.

More fuel = More power, but it also mean more pressure and heat. The richer the mixture burning in your cylinder the more heat is created and the more danger to your engine. Correct tuning is finding the most fuel you can inject without burning too rich, and distributing the new power throughout the rpm range.
First thing's first. I would not recommend attempting to tune your engine without both a Boost gauge and an exhaust gas temperature (EGT) gauge. If you are just relying on smoke to guesstimate your tune job I feel you are asking for trouble. Boost max ~1bar (~15psi) Not really a hard max, but I don't feel the injection pump is capable of delivering enough fuel for there to be reason to go any higher. EGT max 720C (1328F), this is a hard max. Don't touch it. If you tune to go to max one day an overly steep hill or a heavy load will have you going beyond it, and then there is a very real chance a piston will melt.
Once you have your gauges on it's time to add a little more air. To do this we're going to adjust the turbo wastegate. This is pretty simple. The wastegate has a threaded adjustable rod. Simply break the lock nut free on the rod, remove the retainer clip holding the rod to the valve on the hot side of the turbo, slide it off and then turning it to shorten the rod. You may well have enough room to make several turns. I recommend about 4-5 full turns. Snug the locking nut. then using pliers and some strength manually extend the rod back to return it to...
I have tried to source some info on fitting powerfold mirrors to my early FL1. (99 L series). I have read that its easy, but you should remove the gasket before you fit them. I did this when i fitted the RH mirror here the other day, but i found a leak so took a new look at it today and got them both fitted with the gasket in place.

After dismantling your old mirror you have to bore out two holes in the door skin.



When this is done you have to cut where the bolt fastens at the mirror about 3mm over the gasket.


Very easy job indeed. Here im done and just need to get the wiring done.


Tailgate window repair.

Either follow the whole [How to] to repair a regulator or skip the middle section if you are replacing with a complete assembly.

You will need, Philips screwdriver, 10mm & 13mm sockets, ratchet and an extension. Long nose pliers, T25 torx(if you are repairing the regulator), new tailgate membrane or gaffer tape.

First off open the tailgate! Under the bottom of the trim there should be 4 screws,


Remove these and them the tailgate trim can be pulled off starting in the corner where the screws were. The top edge is held on by u shaped clips -the trim lifts vertically off these when the rest of the clips are free.


Remove the tailgate waterproof membrane,

Now to start the strip down...


Loosen the 2 bolts securing the window clamps,


Unplug and unclip the heated rear window wires.
Then carefully lift the glass up out of the door and place in a safe place (away from dogs, children, clumsy mates etc.)

Remove the two clamp bolts fully and retrieve the clamps and plastic bits from inside the door bottom.


Loosen but don't remove the three bolts in the centre of the door retaining the window motor....
Cowasaki's electrical tutorial part 1

Part 2 of the tutorial has now been written with specific instructions for tests and checks.....


Having seen numerous simple questions on car electrics/electrical systems I thought I would write a simple tutorial. I will create a few more on more specialised topics later if people find them useful. My way of thanking people for all the help they have given me over the past 6 months since I got my first landy.....

Vehicle electrics:

1 - The basics

Electrical systems are basically simple if broken down into small manageable parts. A basic electrical circuit consists of a power source (shown here as the battery), come connections (the wires shown here as green lines) and a load (shown here as a bulb). This is basically the simplest circuit.


As you can see from the above diagram the bulb is connected to the battery by two wires which creates the circuit. One side of the battery is shown as positive whilst the other is shown as negative. For our means, working on cars, there are several different ways of referring to these sides of the battery:

Positive = 12v, live, battery
Negative = 0v, ground, chassis, body

Bulbs are examples of devices that require being in the circuit but do not require being in the circuit in any particular direction so will also work if the positive and negative are swapped around as long as there is still a circuit. Other examples of components that can be wired either way with the same effect would be a heater element, relay or a buzzer.

Other components can be directional in that their operation reverses if the connections are reversed or that they only work one way or the other. Two components...
Please note this is for battery replacement only i.e. the buttons don't work but the car will start.

If your fob will not start the car it needs more than a new battery.

Also a dead fob will need at least 15 minutes recharge time.

I don't know how you can know if your good at taking stuff apart but hopefully you'll be able to assess how good the outcome will be of your own attempts seeing what was involved.

This is the battery you need :rolleyes: PANASONIC - VL2330-1HFE - BATTERY, RECH LITHIUM 2330


I'd bought this one before opening the fob :doh: So get the right one It'll be easier ;) Still the same number though so beware


Ok first up a list of tools I used
Left to right Screwdriver small flat blade, long nosed pliers, solder sucker, solder, soldering iron, side cutters, spare pair of hands hobby vice, super glue


Press the black tag and remove the key


With the buttons facing you insert long nosed pliers into to key recess


Now insert the screwdriver into the key recess too and lever apart


Just when it gets to the point where you think this is gonna break. It will pop apart........ hopefully :eek:

Yup not only is that plastic thing holding the battery. it is also soldered to the PCB


Now comes the tricky bit :(

NB With extreme caution
bend the Circuit board and DONOT leave the soldering iron on any longer than absolutely necessary to remove the solder. Use the side cutters to shorten the tabs on the back of the circuit board. Makes desoldering much quicker/easier ;)



First this is the bulb you need. Halfrauds do em

Next disconnect the battery and remove the trim, just pull it off carefully


You may find at least one of the plastic lugs that hold it in place will be left behind. They can be fetched out with a flat bladed screwdriver if you don't have a trim removal tool and your careful.


Put any lugs that got left behind back on the panel, they slide on easily.


Next using a flat bladed screwdriver you will need to push two white tabs to release the light hopefully the pictures will help, they are hard to see.


Sorry bit blurred tried to get in close.... If you half close the tailgate, from the outside you should see that the light has started to come away. You can just make out a gap forming at top of the picture.


Pull the light gently...very gently to expose the bulb holder only pull it as far as necessary being careful not to pull on the rear wash pipe.


Twist 45 degrees and then pull to remove the bulb holder.


The old bulb will just pull out.
When ever replacing high wattage bulbs I'm always careful not to get greasy fingers on the bulb I believe they last longer if they're clean ;)


Refit the bulb holder and gently but firmly press the light back untill you hear the two tabs click home.



Open the tailgate again and refit the trim, reconnect the battery.

Jobs a good un. :D:D:D
Definitive way to remove heater matrix on discovery 1 ..300tdi#

Hi guys I had the same problem as most of you …no heat and water in the foot well. After looking for the cause it was decided that the matrix had to be changed but no one could tell me the best way with everybody saying it was a dash out. According to the book it said it came out from the side? …so puzzled was I. Finally after 2 Landrover dealers said they were NOT prepared to undertake the job I tackled it myself.Firstly: YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THE DASHBOARD OUT so stop saying you do! This would be a major undertaking, and I imagine many cars have been scrapped afterward. You do not even take the centre control console out either.#
Hand grinder with guard removed
A new metal cutting blade (thinnest possible fitted to the grinder)
1 tube of metal epoxy glue for aluminium
30cm of heating hose same diameter as the heater hose in the engine
4 jubilee clips to suit the hose#
Remove centre console (4 screws, 2 in the box and 2 under the matt)

Push seat back and look at the floor heat outlet …to the right you will see the matrix hidden behind the bottom of the dash and a metal structure. The metal structure holds the fuse box lid. Remove the fuse box lid and the floor heat vent. With the grinder cut level with the metal structure toward the heater matrix making sure there are no wires in the way …(basically the bottom of the dash is in the way, it needs cutting to allow the radiator the space to be removed) If you are undertaking this job …you will see where needs cutting. Later the cut is hardly visible when refitted.Remove metal structure in front of matrix by un-bolting at both ends (moving any other bolts near the fuse box hinge, you can now see the pipes holding the radiator in …cut the pipes with the grinder 50mm in (2”) …now remove the radiator (it slides out after you have taken the clip off)Take to the bench and remove pipe fittings, remove rubber seal. DO NOT TRY TO...
Freelander 1, 2004, 82000miles.

Wife complained that the reversing sensors were not working. Checked them and she was right, not for the first time I might add.
Found that the reversing lights wern't working either, checked the wiring diagram on the RAVE disk and worked out they share the same supply coming from the reversing light switch.

Checked this by shorting the two wires at the connection break point six inches from the actual switch just under the air filter, when shorted every thing worked ok, checked continuity on the switch itself and nothing.

So went to Rimmer Brothers and bought one of these for £12:


First off I removed the air filter thinking I could get to the switch that way, my arms were not bendy enough and the 19mm spanner I have was two long anyway, so plan B.....


Off came the near side front wheel, removed the lower panel, only held in with 3 12mm bolts and hay presto loads of room.

Easy access form here, 19mm spanner fitted ok, It took two minutes to get the old one out and the new one in.


Reconnected the wires, tested it and then stuck the bits and bobs back on.

Only problem I had, was shortly after I went to the local Tescos and while reversing out of a space, noticed the reversing sensors and lights were sticking on. Ended up having to put a second washer on the switch to space it out from the actuator in the gearbox.

Other than that an easy job, I'm sure there are other ways but this saved having to remove the cursed tray from underneath.

Hope this helps someone as I have been helped in the past.

Cheers Dave.
I’ve read in threads on here horror stories of stripping the oil cooler threads trying to get the oil cooler pipes off and didn’t fancy trying to get them off. I also didn't fancy buying hoses with a new cooler and taking the old one out. Mine have wept a little ever since I got the car. I took some heart from one of the local specialists who say they often leak between the hose and the crimped ferrules – but he’s never known one come off; mine lasted 50K miles and didn’t seem to be getting worse but………...

From some suggestions in the threads I decided to cut the old flexibles from the steel end pipes and fasten in a new length of hose.

After removing most of the air filter box, intercooler ducts and tying back the EAS dryer both the top and bottom crimps are reasonably accessible. There’s an EAS tube just beside the lower end under the filter box; tie it out of the way with a bit of string. The crimped ferrules can be cut with the edge of a small grinderette, slice lengthways down the ferrule. Most of it is quite thin but the part next to the steel pipe goes right down to the pipe. Very carefully work your way down without catching the steel pipe – or you’ll have trouble getting a seal with the new pipe. Once you’ve made one cut through I found the flexy can be rotated about 120 degrees and make a second slice. The bit in between can be prised out and the hose can be pulled off. But I left mine on until all the cutting was done to stop the bits getting into the oil system. The bottom connection at the front is the trickiest, be patient and mind that EAS pipe! Oh and don’t make the same mistake as me, I failed to work out that removing the hose would spill oil all over the place – doh – be prepared!

I measured the steel ends of the pipe at 5/8" or just over 16mm diameter. I used 5/8” 100R6 hose, you’ll have a few centimetres left out of a metre length. This hose is rated for oil and can take a lot more pressure and temperature than the engine...
I was sure it could be done with just radio out but turns out my old car where it could had the radio insert taken out, this one have all the original bits so it was done through the Hevac unit.
Will let the photos do most of the talking, read/follow Rave for coolant refill.
One thing there isn't a photo of is me blowing into the coolant tank after draining to empty heater core.
No dash or speedo out, only the bits either side to get the Hevac out and bits under steering column.
One hole for hidden screw is all you need, i.e. very little dissembling and no cutting ducts etc.
All in all 2 hours taking it easy. NB: You don't have to drain if you got hose clamps but I find it easy and had a new plug to fit.

First invest in a very long screw driver & O-rings, take out Hevac unit and underside of steering column, look in RAVE if in doubt of anything.
How the screw driver are inserted
Use a spacer for room to work, and notice end of screw driver
Close up of screw driver, if you tap it a fair bit before trying any screw action chances of getting it loose are increased dramatically.
New metal plug for cooler, replaces the plastic one (Not essential)
Drain into a clean bucket if you intend to re-use coolant
Tape up the screw driver so screw stays in place whilst changing O-rings
Another photo of screw
Screw loosened
New & old O-rings, old ones usually cracked and brittle/gone hard