1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Jan
03
Cowasaki's electrical tutorial part 1

Part 2 of the tutorial has now been written with specific instructions for tests and checks.....

<CLICK HERE FOR PART 2>

Having seen numerous simple questions on car electrics/electrical systems I thought I would write a simple tutorial. I will create a few more on more specialised topics later if people find them useful. My way of thanking people for all the help they have given me over the past 6 months since I got my first landy.....



Vehicle electrics:

1 - The basics

Electrical systems are basically simple if broken down into small manageable parts. A basic electrical circuit consists of a power source (shown here as the battery), come connections (the wires shown here as green lines) and a load (shown here as a bulb). This is basically the simplest circuit.

[​IMG]


As you can see from the above diagram the bulb is connected to the battery by two wires which creates the circuit. One side of the battery is shown as positive whilst the other is shown as negative. For our means, working on cars, there are several different ways of referring to these sides of the battery:

Positive = 12v, live, battery
Negative = 0v, ground, chassis, body

Bulbs are examples of devices that require being in the circuit but do not require being in the circuit in any particular direction so will also work if the positive and negative are swapped around as long as there is still a circuit. Other examples of components that can be wired either way with the same effect would be a heater element, relay or a buzzer.

Other components can be directional in that their operation reverses if the connections are reversed or that they only work one way or the other. Two components...
Nov
28
Please note this is for battery replacement only i.e. the buttons don't work but the car will start.


If your fob will not start the car it needs more than a new battery.

Also a dead fob will need at least 15 minutes recharge time.


I don't know how you can know if your good at taking stuff apart but hopefully you'll be able to assess how good the outcome will be of your own attempts seeing what was involved.

This is the battery you need :rolleyes: PANASONIC - VL2330-1HFE - BATTERY, RECH LITHIUM 2330

[​IMG]

I'd bought this one before opening the fob :doh: So get the right one It'll be easier ;) Still the same number though so beware

[​IMG]


Ok first up a list of tools I used
Left to right Screwdriver small flat blade, long nosed pliers, solder sucker, solder, soldering iron, side cutters, spare pair of hands hobby vice, super glue

[​IMG]

Press the black tag and remove the key

[​IMG]

With the buttons facing you insert long nosed pliers into to key recess...
Nov
26
First this is the bulb you need. Halfrauds do em

[​IMG]

Next disconnect the battery and remove the trim, just pull it off carefully

[​IMG]

You may find at least one of the plastic lugs that hold it in place will be left behind. They can be fetched out with a flat bladed screwdriver if you don't have a trim removal tool and your careful.

[​IMG]

Put any lugs that got left behind back on the panel, they slide on easily.

[​IMG]

Next using a flat bladed screwdriver you will need to push two white tabs to release the light hopefully the pictures will help, they are hard to see.

[​IMG]
[​IMG]

Sorry bit blurred tried to get in close.... If you half close the tailgate from the...
Nov
22
Definitive way to remove heater matrix on discovery 1 ..300tdi#

Hi guys I had the same problem as most of you …no heat and water in the foot well. After looking for the cause it was decided that the matrix had to be changed but no one could tell me the best way with everybody saying it was a dash out. According to the book it said it came out from the side? …so puzzled was I. Finally after 2 Landrover dealers said they were NOT prepared to undertake the job I tackled it myself.Firstly: YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THE DASHBOARD OUT so stop saying you do! This would be a major undertaking, and I imagine many cars have been scrapped afterward. You do not even take the centre control console out either.#
Tools
Hand grinder with guard removed
A new metal cutting blade (thinnest possible fitted to the grinder)
1 tube of metal epoxy glue for aluminium
30cm of heating hose same diameter as the heater hose in the engine
4 jubilee clips to suit the hose#
Method#
Remove centre console (4 screws, 2 in the box and 2 under the matt)

Push seat back and look at the floor heat outlet …to the right you will see the matrix hidden behind the bottom of the dash and a metal structure. The metal structure holds the fuse box lid. Remove the fuse box lid and the floor heat vent. With the grinder cut level with the metal structure toward the heater matrix making sure there are no wires in the way …(basically the bottom of the dash is in the way, it needs cutting to allow the radiator the space to be removed) If you are undertaking this job …you will see where needs cutting. Later the cut is hardly visible when refitted.Remove metal structure in front of matrix by un-bolting at both ends (moving any other bolts near the fuse box hinge, you can now see the pipes holding the radiator in …cut the pipes with the grinder 50mm in (2”) …now remove the radiator (it slides out after you have taken the clip off)Take to the bench and remove pipe fittings, remove rubber seal. DO NOT TRY TO...
Nov
16
Freelander 1, 2004, 82000miles.

Wife complained that the reversing sensors were not working. Checked them and she was right, not for the first time I might add.
Found that the reversing lights wern't working either, checked the wiring diagram on the RAVE disk and worked out they share the same supply coming from the reversing light switch.

Checked this by shorting the two wires at the connection break point six inches from the actual switch just under the air filter, when shorted every thing worked ok, checked continuity on the switch itself and nothing.

So went to Rimmer Brothers and bought one of these for £12:

[​IMG]


First off I removed the air filter thinking I could get to the switch that way, my arms were not bendy enough and the 19mm spanner I have was two long anyway, so plan B.....

[​IMG]

Off came the near side front wheel, removed the lower panel, only held in with 3 12mm bolts and hay presto loads of room.

[​IMG]
Easy access form here, 19mm spanner fitted ok, It took two minutes to get the old one out and the new one in.


[​IMG]

Reconnected the wires, tested it and then stuck the bits and bobs back on.

Only problem I had, was shortly after I went to the local Tescos and while reversing out of a space, noticed the reversing sensors and lights were sticking on. Ended up having to put a second washer on the switch to space it out from the actuator in the gearbox.

Other than that an easy job, I'm sure there are other ways but this saved having to remove the cursed tray from underneath.

Hope this helps someone as I have been helped in the past.

Cheers Dave.
Nov
13
I’ve read in threads on here horror stories of stripping the oil cooler threads trying to get the oil cooler pipes off and didn’t fancy trying to get them off. I also didn't fancy buying hoses with a new cooler and taking the old one out. Mine have wept a little ever since I got the car. I took some heart from one of the local specialists who say they often leak between the hose and the crimped ferrules – but he’s never known one come off; mine lasted 50K miles and didn’t seem to be getting worse but………...

From some suggestions in the threads I decided to cut the old flexibles from the steel end pipes and fasten in a new length of hose.


After removing most of the air filter box, intercooler ducts and tying back the EAS dryer both the top and bottom crimps are reasonably accessible. There’s an EAS tube just beside the lower end under the filter box; tie it out of the way with a bit of string. The crimped ferrules can be cut with the edge of a small grinderette, slice lengthways down the ferrule. Most of it is quite thin but the part next to the steel pipe goes right down to the pipe. Very carefully work your way down without catching the steel pipe – or you’ll have trouble getting a seal with the new pipe. Once you’ve made one cut through I found the flexy can be rotated about 120 degrees and make a second slice. The bit in between can be prised out and the hose can be pulled off. But I left mine on until all the cutting was done to stop the bits getting into the oil system. The bottom connection at the front is the trickiest, be patient and mind that EAS pipe! Oh and don’t make the same mistake as me, I failed to work out that removing the hose would spill oil all over the place – doh – be prepared!


I measured the steel ends of the pipe at 5/8" or just over 16mm diameter. I used 5/8” 100R6 hose, you’ll have a few centimetres left out of a metre length. This hose is rated for oil and can take a lot more pressure and temperature than the engine...
Nov
10
I was sure it could be done with just radio out but turns out my old car where it could had the radio insert taken out, this one have all the original bits so it was done through the Hevac unit.
Will let the photos do most of the talking, read/follow Rave for coolant refill.
One thing there isn't a photo of is me blowing into the coolant tank after draining to empty heater core.
No dash or speedo out, only the bits either side to get the Hevac out and bits under steering column.
One hole for hidden screw is all you need, i.e. very little dissembling and no cutting ducts etc.
All in all 2 hours taking it easy. NB: You don't have to drain if you got hose clamps but I find it easy and had a new plug to fit.

First invest in a very long screw driver & O-rings, take out Hevac unit and underside of steering column, look in RAVE if in doubt of anything.
DSCF2486.JPG
How the screw driver are inserted
DSCF2493.JPG
Use a spacer for room to work, and notice end of screw driver
DSCF2494.JPG
Close up of screw driver, if you tap it a fair bit before trying any screw action chances of getting it loose are increased dramatically.
DSCF2496.JPG
New metal plug for cooler, replaces the plastic one (Not essential)
DSCF2499.JPG
Drain into a clean bucket if you intend to re-use coolant
DSCF2500.JPG
Tape up the screw driver so screw stays in place whilst changing O-rings
DSCF2501.JPG
Another photo of screw
DSCF2510.JPG
Screw loosened
DSCF2514.JPG
New & old O-rings, old ones usually cracked and brittle/gone hard
DSCF2515.JPG
Nov
10
My handbrake cable ('04 Def TD5) has been sticking for a while, and i'm pretty sure it was on the way out for quite a time. It snapped last Wednesday, so after a bit of checking around, decision was made to get a new OE one. Online price was found to be the same as the stealer price, so collected one from the local stealer yesterday - the last one in stock. £81.00.

This morning, changed it.
With the vehicle chocked and also parked against a low wall:first gear selected and left.

I started with removing the handbrake end. Fold up the handbrake cover, and remove the clevis pin and disconnect the handbrake sensor switch.
Remove the top and bottom bolts (10mm) securing the handbrake lever assembly, and ease it gently forwards. The rubber grommet on the sensor wire can be squeezed out, and the entire wire set aside. This let me get at and remove the end of the old cable by squeezing the end of the rubber piece using pump pliers and forcing it out of the hole.

Next, with the handbrake lever removed from the vehicle, clean it up if needed and lubicate moving parts that need it. Spray the rubber piece at the end of the handbrake cable very liberally with silcone lubricant, and quickly push the end through and into the handbrake assembly. I had to push it VERY hard to get it in, and it would be impossible without the silicone lube. I also ran some lube onto the cable down inside the sheath at this point.

Postiion the handbrake lever assy back in the vehicle, and carefully feed the other end of the cable through the bodywork hole, and put the sensor wire back in place before securing the entire assembly. I temporarily put the clevis pin back into the cable BEFORE I started doing this, to make sure the cable doesn't get twisted up. You can see the new cable beside the old in my pictures.
The handbrake assembly should be properly bolted into place, and then fix the clevis pin in permanently replacing the washer and split pin to secure it. Leave the cover up for now...
Oct
30
For 'How to's...' not 'How do I's...'
Oct
30
For 'How To's...' not 'How do I's...'