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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Nov
16
Freelander 1, 2004, 82000miles.

Wife complained that the reversing sensors were not working. Checked them and she was right, not for the first time I might add.
Found that the reversing lights wern't working either, checked the wiring diagram on the RAVE disk and worked out they share the same supply coming from the reversing light switch.

Checked this by shorting the two wires at the connection break point six inches from the actual switch just under the air filter, when shorted every thing worked ok, checked continuity on the switch itself and nothing.

So went to Rimmer Brothers and bought one of these for £12:

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First off I removed the air filter thinking I could get to the switch that way, my arms were not bendy enough and the 19mm spanner I have was two long anyway, so plan B.....

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Off came the near side front wheel, removed the lower panel, only held in with 3 12mm bolts and hay presto loads of room.

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Easy access form here, 19mm spanner fitted ok, It took two minutes to get the old one out and the new one in.


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Reconnected the wires, tested it and then stuck the bits and bobs back on.

Only problem I had, was shortly after I went to the local Tescos and while reversing out of a space, noticed the reversing sensors and lights were sticking on. Ended up having to put a second washer on the switch to space it out from the actuator in the gearbox.

Other than that an easy job, I'm sure there are other ways but this saved having to remove the cursed tray from underneath.

Hope this helps someone as I have been helped in the past.

Cheers Dave.
Nov
13
I’ve read in threads on here horror stories of stripping the oil cooler threads trying to get the oil cooler pipes off and didn’t fancy trying to get them off. I also didn't fancy buying hoses with a new cooler and taking the old one out. Mine have wept a little ever since I got the car. I took some heart from one of the local specialists who say they often leak between the hose and the crimped ferrules – but he’s never known one come off; mine lasted 50K miles and didn’t seem to be getting worse but………...

From some suggestions in the threads I decided to cut the old flexibles from the steel end pipes and fasten in a new length of hose.


After removing most of the air filter box, intercooler ducts and tying back the EAS dryer both the top and bottom crimps are reasonably accessible. There’s an EAS tube just beside the lower end under the filter box; tie it out of the way with a bit of string. The crimped ferrules can be cut with the edge of a small grinderette, slice lengthways down the ferrule. Most of it is quite thin but the part next to the steel pipe goes right down to the pipe. Very carefully work your way down without catching the steel pipe – or you’ll have trouble getting a seal with the new pipe. Once you’ve made one cut through I found the flexy can be rotated about 120 degrees and make a second slice. The bit in between can be prised out and the hose can be pulled off. But I left mine on until all the cutting was done to stop the bits getting into the oil system. The bottom connection at the front is the trickiest, be patient and mind that EAS pipe! Oh and don’t make the same mistake as me, I failed to work out that removing the hose would spill oil all over the place – doh – be prepared!


I measured the steel ends of the pipe at 5/8" or just over 16mm diameter. I used 5/8” 100R6 hose, you’ll have a few centimetres left out of a metre length. This hose is rated for oil and can take a lot more pressure and temperature than the engine...
Nov
10
I was sure it could be done with just radio out but turns out my old car where it could had the radio insert taken out, this one have all the original bits so it was done through the Hevac unit.
Will let the photos do most of the talking, read/follow Rave for coolant refill.
One thing there isn't a photo of is me blowing into the coolant tank after draining to empty heater core.
No dash or speedo out, only the bits either side to get the Hevac out and bits under steering column.
One hole for hidden screw is all you need, i.e. very little dissembling and no cutting ducts etc.
All in all 2 hours taking it easy. NB: You don't have to drain if you got hose clamps but I find it easy and had a new plug to fit.

First invest in a very long screw driver & O-rings, take out Hevac unit and underside of steering column, look in RAVE if in doubt of anything.
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How the screw driver are inserted
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Use a spacer for room to work, and notice end of screw driver
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Close up of screw driver, if you tap it a fair bit before trying any screw action chances of getting it loose are increased dramatically.
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New metal plug for cooler, replaces the plastic one (Not essential)
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Drain into a clean bucket if you intend to re-use coolant
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Tape up the screw driver so screw stays in place whilst changing O-rings
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Another photo of screw
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Screw loosened
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New & old O-rings, old ones usually cracked and brittle/gone hard
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Nov
10
My handbrake cable ('04 Def TD5) has been sticking for a while, and i'm pretty sure it was on the way out for quite a time. It snapped last Wednesday, so after a bit of checking around, decision was made to get a new OE one. Online price was found to be the same as the stealer price, so collected one from the local stealer yesterday - the last one in stock. £81.00.

This morning, changed it.
With the vehicle chocked and also parked against a low wall:first gear selected and left.

I started with removing the handbrake end. Fold up the handbrake cover, and remove the clevis pin and disconnect the handbrake sensor switch.
Remove the top and bottom bolts (10mm) securing the handbrake lever assembly, and ease it gently forwards. The rubber grommet on the sensor wire can be squeezed out, and the entire wire set aside. This let me get at and remove the end of the old cable by squeezing the end of the rubber piece using pump pliers and forcing it out of the hole.

Next, with the handbrake lever removed from the vehicle, clean it up if needed and lubicate moving parts that need it. Spray the rubber piece at the end of the handbrake cable very liberally with silcone lubricant, and quickly push the end through and into the handbrake assembly. I had to push it VERY hard to get it in, and it would be impossible without the silicone lube. I also ran some lube onto the cable down inside the sheath at this point.

Postiion the handbrake lever assy back in the vehicle, and carefully feed the other end of the cable through the bodywork hole, and put the sensor wire back in place before securing the entire assembly. I temporarily put the clevis pin back into the cable BEFORE I started doing this, to make sure the cable doesn't get twisted up. You can see the new cable beside the old in my pictures.
The handbrake assembly should be properly bolted into place, and then fix the clevis pin in permanently replacing the washer and split pin to secure it. Leave the cover up for now...
Oct
30
For 'How to's...' not 'How do I's...'
Oct
30
For 'How To's...' not 'How do I's...'
Oct
30
For 'How To's...' not 'How Do I's..'
Oct
30
For 'how to's..' not 'how do I's...'
Oct
30
For 'how to' guides only not 'how do I...'
Oct
28
Quite a common issue is rattling Brake Disc Shields....

Sounds like an exhaust rattle, but it is just where the shield is bolted on and over time the shield metal corrodes around the washer, no doubt through dissimilar metal corrosion, and becomes loose and rattles ...

The fix is dead simple – Large Washers....

The job is simple, unless the Brake Disc haven’t been off in 10 years along with the Calliper Bracket Bolts – that makes things a little ‘interesting’....

Well on Friday evening on the way home with a window open, I noticed the tell tale rattle...time to do mine by the sounds of it. A quick turn to lock, and a feel behind each wheel revealed the Drivers side was infact loose, the Passengers side can wait a while for better weather.

So after work I got home about 4.30pm, and only had very little daylight left – hence why some of the photos are a little dark, I was trying to take them wearing a head torch and my iPhone which doesn’t have a flash cos it is an old one!

Required tools:
Wheel nut spanner
5/8 Socket (Calliper Bracket)
Ratchet to suit Sockets
7mm Allen Key (Calliper Slide Pins)
6mm Allen Key (Disc Retaining Screw)
11mm Spanner (Brake Bleed Nipple)
Long Nose Pliers
Lever
Hammer and Wood
Copper Grease
Breaking Bar
10mm Spanner (Brake Disc Shield Bolts)
Large Washers to fit M8 bolts

Loosen Wheel Nuts, Jack up vehicle, Secure on Stand, Remove Road Wheel....

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Liberally spray the Calliper Bracket Bolts with penetrating fluid...

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Using a lever and pliers, remove the Calliper retaining spring...

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Using a lever, put pressure on the brake pads and open the bleed nipple, lever the pads off the disc. While maintaining pressure on the pads and with fluid still running out of the bleed nipple, close the nipple securely and then release...