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There are for the P38 ;-)

The other battery from amazon might be a better choice....

Local friendly garage confirmed solenoid failure. Fully recon starter motor including new solenoid (with warentee) 75 quid +VAT so it really wasn't worth simply replacing the solenoid once I'd paid for labour. Solved! :-)

3D printing?

Well today's failure of cranking has led me to the solenoid! Outside temp 9 deg C so not particularly cold. First start of the day took 5 attempts to get her to crank once. On third attempt got DVM out and measured voltage 12.3v (after three cycles of glow plugs) so that's ok bearing in mind...

I suspect Amazon's reject/returns would be an improvement over the original supplier too ;-) Thanks Dave good advice, who knows how long the 'new' battery has been sitting in storage for....

Got a feeling it just fits in the P38 too Steve, think I saw a thread about it. Google the part number and P38 to check.. ;-)

That's the weird thing, work journeys are constantly 50 mile round trips coupled with the odd weekend start/stop shuffle the kids around driving, yet the 664 (760CCA) died within 1.5 years :-( Yep, I'm not taking anymore risks now - 1000CCA tractor battery for me!

Can even buy one (from same company) via Amazon: MF31-1000 High Performance Engine Start Battery 1000CCA: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

May do, but it's worth a look around the market for commercial/agricultural batteries too. Spotted this: Alphaline Heavy Duty Battery / Alphaline Batteries / Batteries by Application Has anyone used Alphaline? I like the 4 year warranty but it's shipping the thing back which is always a...

Down to 9.6v at crank this morning and only 10 Deg C outside...

Cheers guys. Does anyone know the brownout voltage for the bcu?

Hi The reading was taken after a 12hr rest so the cells would have stabilised and as such near Open Circuit results can be used to determine charge: File:Lead-acid voltage vs SOC.PNG - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia 12.7v would be considered fully charged ;-)

Hi All Well here we are again in the beginnings of the cold weather. Symptoms: On the odd very cold morning she fails to crank on the first attempt (normally if car hasn't run the previous day). Glow light takes a little longer (5 seconds) to go out - this is expected. Dash...

And suddenly they begin to operate flawlessly again - weird. I guess I need to strip the motor assy to see what's wearing but it's Christmas, so might just wait till permanent failure!

Hi and thanks for your really useful reply :-) It was an Autoligic diag reader (Autologic-Diagnostics -LAND ROVER Diagnostics) which unfortunately someone else used and charged me 40 quid, and it was a struggle to actually get the details of the codes from them - guessing they just want a £3k...

Sounds like it! Also sounds like a bit of a job too :-(

Even my garage's vast array or diagnostic doesn't read all modules, most will read modules to include SLABS but the ACE proved allusive. What I've read here are nancom and hawkeye are the readers of choice for LR Lea

Cheers Dave, good thinking :-) if the rain holds off this weekend I'll take a look at the connector an get my contact cleaner out :-)

Had the codes cleared and read back (after ACE red light) when it was warmer weather: Pressure Signal out of range Directional Control Value fault System temp too high I'm convinced it's related to heat based on the red light only triggers in warm (25-30deg C) ambient and either after 30 mins...