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I got them for eurocarparts, they were under 40 quid. You do need to cut wires and re-join but everything comes in the box from bosch. First one took me about 20 mins other one 10 mins.

what make did u replace with? I purchased 2 Britpart ones and they threw up errors straight away. I have purchased 2 Bosch now and all is running like a dream.

Ok I called Bison and a cracking guy called Mike came round and reset all my fuel trims and checked all my ECU's for errors. Been driving it today and its a lot better, not perfect but just waiting for it to adjust. Mike was excellent and answered any questions I needed plus talked me through...

Ok hopefully the end to this saga, I purchased a new valve block and both filters off kurtjohnson10 on here for a very very reasonable price and would recommend getting in contact with him if you need this. I fitted them with a new air dryer that I had and at the moment it is running better than...

Hi Guys, I need to get my fuel trims reset and found Bison on the internet for the Wirral, just wondering if anyone has used them before and what they are like? Cheers Phil

K cheers Datatek

Datatek, did you drill any holes in the main box or just the lid? Just i'm going to be replacing my valve block next week so was thinking of copying your drilling and if you have drilled lower down then whilst the block isn't in I can drill lower down. What do you think?

Mine was sticking and it was the EAS exhaust filter blocked, maybe doing what I did. Unscrew this then go for a drive, yes you sound like a bus with air brakes but my EAS worked perfect. The root cause for me was the air dryer failing and blocking this filter.

well, I have fitted new o2 sensors, new MAF, checked for leaks and now I have a 0175 & 0172 errors stating System to Rich. Do I just need to get my LPG serviced or is it something else? Cheers Phil

I replaced my O2 sensors and not long after I started to lose power and miss fire, when tested the O2 sensors had failed, replaced them with bosch ones and hey presto back to normal driving and no error codes. May be a long shot but does sound similar symptoms.

I'm changing the front bearings in a few weeks, luckily I have access to a 20t press so hopefully can do it. Will let you know how I get on

have you read through all my issues, sounds similar and there is a good section in 'how to' that looks at this. The issue with mine looks to be the drier has broken down and filled my exhaust filter with its internals. I am running with this removed currently and apart from the whooshing sound...

i managed to take the front grill off and with a bit of swearing get them on.

i thought 6 pins were motor only, 10 pins are motor and heated, and 12 are motor, heated & dimming but i may be wrong. Never heard of folding on a P38

i know what u mean but i've had that much trouble with it it would be my luck a solenoid would then fail and it would just be ongoing. If i replace everything new (or nearly everything) then i should be in a better position. I will rebuild the original just incase though :rolleyes:

well I have removed the exhaust and run the car for a few days and the suspension is working as i'd expect. it hasn't once tried to move to wading height so it was definitely what you said datatek. So I have ordered a new valve block of kurt on here with filters and I've also ordered the drier...

ok cheers fingers crossed this fixes my issues

Thanks Datatek, my job for this week. Just out of interest how long should it take to move between different height settings?

Ok just to add abit more to it. I took off the exhaust silencer on the side of the EAS valve block and tried all heights and it moved between the heights quickly with the obvious sound of air escaping. I tried to blow through the silencer but it seemed blocked so i tapped it on the slam panel...

It is confusing i have now attached a picture, its really starting to frustrate me and maybe the big hammer needs to come out.....