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Well, update: I've SORNED this vehicle, put it on layup insurance. Now I'm looking for a wizard/LR enthusiast/specialist, to fit new head - then I'll MOT it and put it up for sale. I'm in South Yorkshire, but haven't yet found someone willing to tackle the diagnostics (to see if it is actually a...

Ah, yes, got it - so, theoretically, I should be able to examine that before taking head off - in fact, it should tell me if I actually need to take the head off. That's what I was after - no point in changing injector seals now, if, in fact, the head-crack is the problem (since the seals+...

So, what I'm looking at is the injector socket?

I'm mulling over this; by the time I'd paid for head removal, testing and so on - would welding be actually the most cost-effective solution? It seems (to me) that, if I'm wanting a solution that will last me for the next 200K miles, then the only reliable way to go would be an AMC head. Not the...

Brian -I couldn't see what I was looking at.... The leak detection kit - where from - is it the fluorescent dye and a uv light? Head removed or not? I had a garage lined up to replace injector seals, but we discussed and realised that diagnostics were not what they were geared up to - they were...

Thanks for your thoughts - but the oil is climbing consistently (and, by my last reckoning, is more like 10mm per 400 miles - and it keeps on rising (until I empty the oil again, and refill to just above 'min', which should last me for 10 days, before I have to repeat) - and obviously, oil...

Thanks, sounds like a plan - it did have injector seals about 20K miles ago, but I know that's no guarantee. Incidentally, are the 15p engines just as bad as the 10p engines for cracks in head? - I had read on some info page that they weren't, but I'm not sure why that would be

I'm monitoring a slight (at the moment) diesel-in-sump problem. While doing so, and noticing that, despite the slightly raised oil level in the sump, it doesn't seem to smell of diesel. Checking for blow-by, from the dipstick or the oil filler cap (nothing noticed) I observe that the rocker...

Well, another way of looking at it, I suppose, is to ask - whilst carrying out surgery on the engine, what might I reasonably expect should be replaced after 200K miles (in the engine, I mean - eg piston rings, or bottom -end bearings)?

The O rings were LR genuine, and actually 15K+ miles without apparent problems. That of course doesn't mean they haven't failed again, so agree that would be the first step. Good tip about going through purge and looking for bubbling diesel. Really, I was asking for thoughts about the wisdom of...

Afternoon, Defender 100 doublecab, TD5, '52 plate, 195,000 miles. Oil level in sump rising. Have changed it, of course. Rise is slow (2mm on dipstick in 400 miles) Can't smell diesel (but then, I have a terrible sense of smell) Had injector seals (OEM) within last 20K miles Vehicle runs well...

I'd like to find out about that too - the anti-stall feature on the TD5 is very handy, be a shame to lose it

I was wondering the same thing - surely not a military secret, I know a guy on an ozzie site was trying to reverse engineer it..

If I've done this right, I've attached a photo of the exploding culprit, along with a picture of what I think it is (or similar). Interestingly, a device similar (though more recent) is advertised: "IRC's Surface Mount Resistor Meets GR1089 Lightning Strike Specifications" (this is the company's...

I should say that, although I noticed some improvement in the first tank, it was in subsequent tanks that I really noticed (I suppose that's the injector cleaning/ better atomisation)

INterestingly, I noticed on an australian LR site that achap in Ireland had a similar problem - on,lifting the throttle, the engine died. Knowing now that it's also associated with an exploded resistor, obviously, there's something the ECU is doing on throttle-liftoff, but it's gone wrong and so...

There seem to be two things conflated here: 1)takes a little while after cold starting before it will actually rev. Mine has always done that. 2) once on the move, the bottom end is gutless and so it takes a while to actually get within the operating range of the turbo. This second point - mine...

Is it the done thing to attach a photo? (not of me, obviously)

Yep, had thought about it

Alternatively a Roamerdrive (formerly Roverdrive) is supposedly a very tough unit that could be used in any of the gears (though I don't really think you need a 10 speed box!). However, at £1400-£1500, it's not the cheapest option...