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Thanks Alibro. Today I did some detailed testing armed with the RAVE electrical library and connector images. I deduced there’s an absence of any power whatsoever on the white/purple connector at the fuel pump. I then tested fuse 19, also nil power. I then tested the wire in to the connector...

Hi Vincent, any update on this? I have a 2000 1.8 petrol Freelander and its doing the same thing, cranks but won’t run.

Hi everyone, The past few weeks I’ve had an issue with my 1.8 Freelander where it cranks but doesn’t run. I have so far replaced the rotor, distributor cap, ignition coil, ignition leads, I also removed the starter and locked the flywheel and checked the timing and I can confirm that the left...

Hi Mr K, is yours a 1.8 Freelander out of curiosity and did you get an OBD code of ‘intake air sensor fault’ or similar and that prompted you to inspect the said sensor? Did you also have a crank but not starting scenario? I have that now, and that code keeps coming up. Unplugging the wiring...

Hiya Landycj, Did you end up solving this issue, I know it’s more than 10 years ago but I’ve got a no start condition at present for my 1.8. Cranks but won’t start. Was yours similar as in it would crank but not start?

Cheers for that Andy, you can’t get the flinger as an individual part anywhere.

Hi Guys, Had a bit of trouble getting the rear LHS driveshaft out of the rear diff, it eventually came out, i leveraged on the inner CV joint. The rear RHS one came out a lot easier. I notice a small ring present on both rear inner CV joints, present next to the cup. I damaged this ring on LHS...

Just an update to this as well. I changed the crank pulley aka the guide, from the MG6 one to a 1.8 Freelander original and put a brand new timing belt on, it still runs off the edge but much less than previous. I could probably say that it runs flush with the edge but a very tiny amount over...

So just an update, it turns out all 4 exhaust manifolds are getting hot, previously when I thought they were cool to the touch was after I shut the car off, and I also note that they were wet from me having washed the coolant amongst the engine bay after having bled it. But I let the car idle a...

Hi Rob, Just a question, when you logged in via P scan, is there any setting that allows you to modify the temperature at which the cooling fans turn on in slow mode?

These photos show where I fitted the MG6 coolant reservoir.

Here are some photos of the metal coolant pipe I’ve customised with a 2nd hole and coolant port professionally welded in, to accept coolant from the nearby engine oil cooler. There’s a few photos there of the engine oil cooler also.

Hi Nodge, It’s definitely a Turbo engine block which I mated to the FL1 cylinder head with non Turbo set up. I’ll have to get a compression tester. If the car idles normally, I wonder why. The other thing that didn’t exist before is that I’m using the large MG6 coolant reservoir, I have...

Thanks Lynall I haven’t done a compression test as it runs nice and smooth when I start it up. I’ll look in to it.

Hi Guys, Some of you may have read my other posts about me having mated an MG6 cylinder block to an FL1 cylinder head, I’ve solved the cooling system issues but now I’ve noticed something else. This is a non turbo project as well. When I took the inlet manifold off, I could have sworn that the...

I’ll have to check that out and see the gap. The MG6 and FL1 crank pulleys are the same. I just checked specs online now and note that a timing belt for the MG6 is 26mm wide and has 145 teeth, mirroring the FL1 timing belt which is also 26mm wide with 145 teeth.

Hi all, My new timing belt is running about 1mm over the outside edge of the camshaft gears. New belt and new engine block from an MG6 1.8, mated to a Freelander cylinder head (distributor type). It’s not a turbo version. The timing belt tensioner is the auto tensioner as it should be but is...

I also have a short YouTube clip showing the plumbing I carried out to get the heat exchanger to fit. I’ll try post a link here, hope the link isn’t blocked.

Hi guys I just saw this now. I’ve also obtained an MG6 block and mated it to an FL1 cylinder head. The way I overcame the sensor issue was by simply getting a bushing of same outer diameter with inner diameter matching the FL1 crank sensor and hammering it in to that hole, then simply drilling...

It’s an as new head, not warped not gone soft following overheating etc, it’s nice and flat.