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As title, £150 delivered. just sold vehicle so no longer required.

Fixed it, for anyone interested to know.... I had another look earlier and realised i had missed the plugs under the fuse board fixed to the Becm. pulled out connector C257 and the noise from board stopped and current draw dropped to .04A. now i was getting somewhere! Quick look on Rave...

i will PM him, the more i read Becm threads the more his name pops up. not convinced about it being a major problem, pretty much everything in the vehicle works i just have the battery drain problem although i don't think its related. i wouldnt have thought the transistor has any bearing on the...

oh and if i remove the top board, is anything going to loose its sync etc? i'm not worried about windows/radio etc. one of the transistors is burnt out, not sure what its for. there is an external relay been mounted in there at some point, not sure if its been added to replace the burnt...

Done this now using the USA eBay tools, took around 5 days to turn up, I assumed the dti gauge I got was a standard one :S it's just over 2" diameter. Job done now and it drives a lot better! Lots torquier at low rpm, my pump was set at .65mm so a fair way out! Cheers all

On closer inspection/listening with a fresh head it does seem to be coming from the relay end of the board and could actually sound like an energised relay although when power to board cut there is no sound of a relay de-energising :s it doesn't seem very practically possible to access the...

will try disconnecting headlight wipers tommorow, thanks @Data. its much higher pitched than relay, and very very quiet. can only be heard with lid off Becm.

Hi all, (second time writing this, internet explorer decided to stop responding as i was finishing writing! :@) Right, ive had a battery drain problem with my P38 since ive had it, never really had much of a look into it untill today (working through list of faults in prep for selling...

that link didn't seem to work but i have already found the dimensions for the locking tool, will turn one up. thanks though :) As for the DTI gauge, i take it a standard one just clamps into the threaded adaptor you kindly supplied a link to? don't need to get a specific type? thanks again

the kit mentioned in the first post, not the dti gauge, its the adaptor kit to fit to the pump i am after, cheers

sorry to drag this up from the past, but do you have more details on the sealey tool? the item number originally posted no longer comes up, cheers

@datatek, I don't see how you can tell me I'm ****ing in the wind when youve not seen my pump. I'm telling you there was a regularly occurring fault before and now it's gone. I'm not trying to insult your knowledge of them in fact you've helped me in the past I just like to understand things and...

i mean how could the needle lift sensor ever cause the MIL coming on on over-run when its not giving out a signal? like you say it obviously wasnt that in my case as its new but ive seen it suggested when other people have asked the same question. don't see how i can have ruined my FIP? people...

ok makes sense, but if thats the case how could needle lift sensor ever be the cause of the problem?

Fair enough, like i said i am just reporting my findings. number 4 injector is new. throttle stop has worn so is now returning past where it would have done when originally calibrated. if crank sensor was the fault i cannot see how this would mask it. if it was not giving the correct signal...

If you still need to get in PM me i know a way to get in without breaking windows.

Hi all, since i've had my P38 (since last June) ive always had the problem of the MIL coming on during decelleration and a loss of power unless i lift off then re-press accelerator. the fault that comes up is fuel quantity actuator solenoid or something to that effect. untill now all the stuff i...

ok so its going, don't ask me what i did because i don't know. had a thought that it might not take eka code with tailgate open (was reluctant to shut it as this is how i broke in and it took a while) so put a screwdriver in the latch to fool it, then went and turned ignition on and it was no...

Right, so ive broken in (no smashed glass :) ) won't say how on an open forum. anyway, got the doors open, and now it is unlocked it is recognising the key turns in both directions, only problem is it doesnt seem to be recognising my eka code? as said before i have managed to enter it once...

well i managed to enter the EKA code once before so to be honest as far as i knew it was working. is the connection between the key and the lock mechanical? i.e when i turn the key should it push the lock open, or does it just activate the switch which electronically pushes the lock open? Regards