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No no no... I did read it and interpreted it as that studs are ok if the vehicle is being put to use on ICY roads, much the same as you would chains. If its dry get them off as that would be naughty! Like I said not much use for them in the UK...:rolleyes:

I agree with what you say about chains and studs but the extract doesn't specifically outlaw studded tyres or chains.

No point anyone using cheap eye protection...its your eyes afer all.

It seems they are ok if used in icy conditions, but not if its dry and good conditions. I guess in the UK its unlikely you'll get perfect conditions for studded tyres for any length of time. Certainly not enough 'good' conditions for sales of new studded tyres!

I think optima batteries are overrated compared to what else is on offer, but if you can get some life back into it then who cares...

Just pondering my next move / modification and front door removal is the main consideration. The motor is a 91 RR which already has lost its rear doors and has a rear modification of sorts, MOTable as it just passed... Anyone have experience? Anyone know what needs to remain in order to pass...

not in a v8 compared to a 2.5 diesel it aint

Shutz applied by spray gun is by far the best way to protect your vehicle imo... Waxoil is OK...I do use it from time to time for odd jobs by brush...but it is just too thin and easily washed off for my liking. Build Shutz up to whatever thickness you prefer!

If you do weld it, then have a think about things before you start. While steel will 'weld' with all sorts of contaminants present I would advise you clean all work areas back to bare clean metal. Get a nice snug joint between any new bracket and the axle casing. I would probably preheat the...

If you have little or no experience of welding aluminium stay away from thin sheet / panels with a mig of any type. Come to think of it stay away from thin sheet full stop and buy new panels.

Don't know about the switching or valves although it sounds complicated for the job in question. Otherwise I would expect the pump would need to be running constantly when you wanted protection.

Tried persuading it with force, thats all it needs in my eyes?

Some great feedback esp MHM! So what is a standard chassis is designed to do as I had always assumed the classic steel ladder eliminated flex, with its main aim to be ridgid and hold everything together? For example as bodies are bolted down to outriggers, rubber mounting boots can only take...

Unless I misunderstood what you meant, aluminiums (alloys) greater flexibility over steel is another benefit. I'm still trying to find any information of aluminium being used to manufacture any type of chassis, which maybe a clue in itself...nobody has done it.

All valid points! I guess it comes down to personal preference in some ways, I'm looking for less weight - particularly for trials comps. Having tried to lift a standard chassis by hand I'm sure I could shave a modest amount of weight going this way. However, I can see it being a test of a...

Fair do guys...I won't be sleeping on it! :)

Well I guess weight saving and greater corrosion resistance. I realise it would cost more but al is nothing like stainless...

Hi, Just mulling over the idea of fabricating an aluminium chassis for my classic RR. Cannot see it having been done before so am not aware of the pitfalls, but wondered if anyone has an opinion? I cant really see a problem so long as we beef certain areas up and the plate used throughout...

The viscous does a good job in that you can be assured both prop shafts will turn no matter what. However it wont keep all wheels turning which is a problem only diff locks can solve. I have ARBs front and back, they work. I really don't know what advantage a disco transfer box would give...

Further update... Symptoms returned so decided to replace the black pump relay under the passenger seat. Not counting my chickens but is working fine!