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yup

All fixed thanks to your pointers. Starter motor was ****ing about so as buster would say "Gave it a few chaps" and it was fixed. I wouldn't have thought about the starter myself , I would have gone for ignition switch but starter it was. Ta muchly.

Ta, gives me a few things to look at tommorrow.

Could do with some advice here. Just gone to start my 300tdi 110 and I turn the key through to position 2 to warm the glow plugs. Once they have warmed up I turn to position 3 to fire the Landy up and there is absolutely nothing hapening, nowt !! All lights stay on as they should but there...

Either the PAS box shaft has worn and it's been tightened up as it gets looser over the years or the splines on the drop arm have worn thus giving you vertical play in the drop arm. Whatever it turns out to be plan to replace the arm, and yeah they are a bitch to get off, Mr Anglegrinder...

You could give these a try :- AL Services – Independent Land Rover Specialist - Poole Dorset if they can't help then maybe they can point you in the rught direction and they are just up the road at holes bay near the mercedes garage. If no help then try :- Fernside Garage - Parts ...

See I told ya Kashews :)

Kashew ??

Read this thread http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/looking-rave-web-site-127726.html If you use the link I posted then you need Rave02.iso as that covers Rangies.

Try here :- Index of /data/lr

Can tell you have a Landy again, your up late reading **** about fixing it. Ha Ha

Get to bed malcy

I take it you've checked the tracking and balancing ? Mine did the death shake and that's all that needed doing, I had recently changed the track rod ends before the death wobble event.

Try AL Services – Independent Land Rover Specialist - Poole Dorset they are in Poole, well Holes Bay area.

Hope this helps with fitting :- Fitting Guide for H14 Winch http://www.repairmylandrover.co.uk/uploads/downloads/2010/11/9326_Iss_181197_Obsolete.pdf

Exactly Standard (2mm) , replacement chassis via Richards (3mm) so guessing the galvanising process adds about another 1mm ish.

For a bit of shaping i.e. bottom of chassis rail then yeah 2mm or to be precise 2.2mm mild steel would probably suffice. The side walls preferably should be 3mm though to maintain the structural integrity. It's hardly rocket science is it ??? And I take this advice from my father that has...

Don't be a cock , replacement richards chassis wall thickness is 3mm :doh: So I stand by my 2/3mm plate of mild steeliness. If I had taken the advice that I must get a new chassis after finding a rusty hell then I would have been about 3 grand down now and not £50 including paint. Sure it...

Agree with Jp, strip that paint back, see whats left, cut the ****ty stuff out, get some 2 or 3 mm plate, make a template, mark it out, cut plate, weld the fooker on, paint it. Piece of ****.

Having spent almost all of August teaching myself welding I feel I can offer a fair answer. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/mot-due-so-thought-i-would-take-look-underneath-big-mistake-112398.html Used a Clarke 150 Turbo with 0.8 wire and Argon/CO2 gas. Decided on 3mm Mildsteel for the...