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Had a disaster when doing some sill welding, some interior trim caught fire, rapidly speading behind the dash etc etc. The interior is totalled, but engine, axles, box, gas system etc is all good. Its done about 114k miles and is a 1987 F reg, and had a single point open loop gas system, with...

Nah, was only closed because of snow, but as you can see, quite a few sledgers had gone up too! Its just a normal road over the tops usually

Thought you guys may appreiciate the pics...

On my 3.5 EFi RRC, The back box rusted through so I bought a cheap straight through back box off eBay with a 2" stainless tip for £20. Nice burble, a bit louder than standard but not intrusive inside.

The speedo needle on my 3.5 classic isnt illuminated. I presume that there is a bulb in the speedo that shines down the needle (like the tacho) but I cant see anything??

You can test the vac advance unit by sucking on the pipe going to the adavnce bellows. You should see the base plate rotate slightly. Or using a timing strobe gun, sucking on the pipe should result in the ignition advancing.

Yip, weights now freed off and black "check valve" thing confined to the bin!!! LPG tune up next.

I have read a few of these threads. Do any turn up again?? Or are they all just eBayed for spares?? I know a few classic old cars (Granadas and stuff) go missing for the banger racers, but where do the Landys go???

For a 3.5 Efi Range Rover flapper type. Is it common with the 3.9 or discos?? Anyone know where I can get me one or anyone got one sat around they want to sell?? Kieran

Is the cold start injector the one attached to the plenum?? If so, mine has the plug disconnected. Whats the thermotime switch and the extra air valve??

Does it stall dead or does the tick over get slower and slower?? If it stops dead it could be the petrol shut off circuit has failed and it goes massively rich, running on petrol and LPG. Or, It could be the LPG solenoid stuck off, so the petrol circuit becomes isolated, but no LPG takes...

I would guess a pulsed output, with each pulse causing the coil to fire. The little 8 pointed star wheel on the dizzy shaft should trigger a pick up unit, which then fires the coil.

No, once warm all is good on both Petrol and LPG. Any other suggestions??

Hi, I had a look at mine today, and the mixture screw sits about 19mm down from the top. I used a long setscrew and a nut to give me depth. Hope it helps, Kieran

As thread title. When I first start the 3.5 efi in a morning it runs really lumpy until warm. If I switch over to LPG it runs a lot smoother. Coolant tempreture sensor maybe?? Kieran

Regarding advance, it runs on LPG most of the time. And since the octane of gas is a lot higher than unleaded pinking is less of an issue, so the engine will tolerate more advance.

Ive just noticed a tapping noise coming from the front of the rh bank. Sounds like a tappet tapping away, and is related to engine speed. Its definately only from the front (number 2) cylinder. Any ideas?? Tappet in need of adjustment?? Worn cam?? Kieran

Tinkering around the engine bay today, I checked the base line setting (0.290 v with throttle shut between red and green), that was fine. As I gradually opened the butterfly, the voltage increased steadily, but at about a third throttle it suddenly goes closed circuit?? I assume thats not...

I bought the Lucas dizzy cap and rotor arm for £14 from ebay. Came in genuine Lucas boxes, correct part numbers etc. Rotor arm a nice tight fit and the cap fits properly too. Recommended!!

The bob weights were partially seized. I removed the gubbins and the top plates and just doused it in wd40 and worked it back and forth. It moves nice and smoothly now.:) I have removed that damper / check valve / non return valve unit. All I can see it doing is inhibiting the vac advance...