Search results

Engine out job to do it i'm afraid.......sorry :D

sorry Roger, but I'm with Ormus all the way, Take the crank out and have it machined - she'll be as good as new, or weld her up and sell or hope - btw how much wear is there on the crankshaft itself other than keyway? Had the crank been morse tapered it woulda been a different proposition...

Not heard the mod recommended specifically for a 300 Tdi, but I'm not a fan generally, but, handling - unlikely to make any difference stability - won't affect body roll, but will increase traverse angle before you roll over marginally turning circle - will only improve if you have enough...

So is it sorted then?

Not actually familiar with the v8, but either dodgy oil pump or does this engine have an oil strainer sump pick up? if so whip the sump off and make sure its not blocked.

I have same thing on defender 200 TDi, but only on intermittant, assumed mine was capacitor discharge style intermittant control, if the screen is dry it stops quickly as the wipe takes longer, but keeps going if wet - pay a lot of money for sensing wipers in some vehicles!!!!! :D

I have de carbon shocks on the rear of my defender 90 and I can vouch for their quality.

The stuff on the back of the genuine pads is nowt but anti squeal coating, nothing like piston locating springs on disco 2, plus the sensor is in the hub assy not the caliper. If the pads were moving in the caliper you would hear it and feel it by way of a clunk every time you press the brake...

Start with an oil change, is it same running as without the engine on? if not then clutch may not be releasing fully.

After much work and fettling, got the TD5 sorted now, and it's still not the vehicle I hoped it would be, not enough low down grunt for my towing needs, so it's time to move on......... ....so anyone interested in a 1999 Disco 2 TD5 7 seater GS, 110,000 miles Full Service History, 1 Owner from...

Check out the wiring diagram for yours if you got one, seem to remember the feed wires take a less than starightforward route to the BCU - child isolator + relay + relay + fuse etc. etc. I'll try have a look later if no1 else has chance in mean time.

39.99 for 1 piston and ring set from craddocks

£40.00 and some time to do the piston vs ???£££???££?£?££???£?? for failure :D

Personally I wouldn't risk it, you are about to start running at higher compression ratio than you were before with those leaks, and if it goes and implodes then you are probably looking at a re-bore + associated damage from large lumps of metal circulating everywhere. Too much of a gamble...

My SRS warning light comes on periodically and stay on until the engine is restarted, sometimes coming on as soon as it goes out after start up, and sometimes coming on after 45 mins driving. Any common culprits I should be looking at for intermittant problem? Will try to get a testbook on...

Sorry missed that bit in previous post, I haven't searched around to see whats available, but if it's an either or situation, speak to Allard and see what gain they reckon from the second underslung intercooler, they seem genuine on performance gain figures. From what i've read previously...

I would imagine that if the Crankshaft pulley is worn to make it wobble, then the wear will be in both the pulley and the crankshaft (hence the terminal quote), take the pulley off and have a look, worse case scenario is new crankshaft and pulley (still definitely not terminal - just expensive)...

Like Yella says, gas flowing is basically smoothing the airflow through the intercooler, a full size hi-flow intercooler not only allows more air to flow through at a greater volume, the additional size cools the air far more than the standard one, increasing combustion efficiency.

Dig a bore hole, you can use something like 2000 gallons a day for free, after that that water board want to know about it. :/

Was a couple of years ago, but £345.00 comes to mind, of the £5,000 or so ive spent on landrover repairs/mods over the last few years, it's definitely the best money I've spent. :D