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  1. fenby1976

    series 2a diesel engine not starting

    Bear in mind that if you have the original style glow plugs, if one burns out then they all stop working because they are wired in series. Like old Xmas tree lights. Don't test them by taking them out and putting 12v across them because you'll probably burn them out like that.
  2. fenby1976

    One shot grease.

    Don' know about how much one shot grease to use but I guess that an advantage of sealing the swivels from the diff means that if one becomes full of water and mud or broken bits of metal, in theory this won't mean that the other parts of the axle will be taken out too.
  3. fenby1976

    Disco 1 front axle on 1971 Range Rover

    OK, so a friend of mine has a 1971 Range Rover with a worn out front axle and he's thinking of fitting a Disco 1 axle as a replacement. He's not concerned about originality because it was already bobtailed and fitted with a 300tdi when he bought it. So the question is will a Disco 1 axle bolt...
  4. fenby1976

    200TDi into 2A, having some clutch problems

    Try measuring the offset between the face of the flywheel and the flywheel housing to bellhousing face, on both the Tdi and your old 2.25 engine, to see if there is a difference. I had no problems with the clutch when installing a 200Tdi onto a SIII gearbox. I used a SIII clutch plate and the...
  5. fenby1976

    Series 3 Electrics help

    This diagram should help shed some light on what the problem is: The diagram shows that the rectifier is contained within the alternator, but the regulator is located within what is known as the 'Generator Panel'. The diagram also shows that there are a pair of ammeters in the system...
  6. fenby1976

    Series 3 Electrics help

    Do the 24V systems have the rectifier and regulator mounted on the alternator or are they remote? I had a mini digger which didn't have these bits on the alternator itself. If the regulator was somewhere else, then that might explain why changing the alternator didn't have any effect
  7. fenby1976

    Conversion info leaving me confused.

    If you fitted a 200Tdi engine your fuel costs per mile would be about 20p, but with a 2.25 petrol it will be about 30p, so with the 200Tdi you'll save 10p every mile. In 1500 miles you will have saved £150. A 200Tdi engine might only cost about £150 more than a 2.25 petrol engine! You won't...
  8. fenby1976

    Conversion info leaving me confused.

    I've heard lots of conflicting opinions as to whether or not various Land Rover 2.5 diesel engines will fit into a series Land Rover without chassis modifications. I know one thing for sure (because I've done it myself): 200Tdi engines will fit into a series chassis without modifying the...
  9. fenby1976

    series 2 one ton

    Looking at the photos on the other thread, I'd say yours is not a one tonne. The military 109s and the one tonne have similar chassis with 2" higher suspension than standard. However the military chassis has a rear X member without tapering ends. The one tonne 2As had ENV axles (not sure if...
  10. fenby1976

    To Bling or not to Bling...

    Silver wheels and hardtop on a series sounds like a really bad idea. I think you should do it limestone.
  11. fenby1976

    Alternator mounting for a 200tdi in a series 3

    It's a very tight fit to squeeze in all the turbo pipework into a series engine bay. In the Disco standard setup, the alternator is mounted above the PAS pump. In order to make more space, and because in many cases the PAS pump is not needed, some people reposition the alternator where the PAS...
  12. fenby1976

    Rear spring removal - bolt catching on tank

    I've found that new standard springs are made of cheese. I bought a new set of rear springs, fitted them and the vehicle ended up lopsided. I say if old springs are not sagging and are sitting level, keep em.
  13. fenby1976

    Ahhhh The Tub Floor's gone

    Replacing the alloy floor plate is a bastard of a job even with the tub removed from the chassis. When I did it on my SIII I found there were hundreds of spotwelds and rivets to break. It might be worth considering swapping the whole tub. or just laying new plate over the old.
  14. fenby1976

    Pro comp shockers

    I've never used Pro Comp shocks myself, but I know people who have had bad experiences with them not lasting very well. One particular problem I've heard of is that the front shocks are too wide at the base, so when cross axled the the shocks come into contact with the springs,or something, and...
  15. fenby1976

    Will my little 88'' make the grade ?

    Don't worry about road performance. If you don't already have tall tyres fitted then I'd suggest you get some 7.50 x 16 or 235/85 x 16 tyres. With 205 x 16 or 6.00 x 16 tyres you'd be at a considerable disadvantage compared to coilers when it comes to deep ruts. Waterproof the the HT...
  16. fenby1976

    200 / 300 tdi into a SerIII Who to ask?

    No turbo clearance problems on an 88", only on 109s.
  17. fenby1976

    Differences between a series 2 and a series 3 109.

    For IIA: All metal dash; No sunchro on 1st and 2nd; clutch slave cylinder on O.S. Door hinges have a ball between upper and lower parts; Diff pinion oil seal housings unbolt from rest of diff; Rear axle has Rover diff (probably); Brake lights incorporate numberplate light; There are some...
  18. fenby1976

    88'' SWB Petrol - Slowwwwwwwwww

    I used to think the handling of series Land-Rovers were not really up to doing much more than 55Mph. I think that was because with the standard engines it's fairly rare that you've got a straight enough stretch of road to get to speeds of much over 55, so when you do manage it, it's quite...
  19. fenby1976

    88'' SWB Petrol - Slowwwwwwwwww

    My 88" IIA 2.25 petrol (zenith carb) on 7.50 x 16 tyres and standard gearing would do just over 70Mph flat out.
  20. fenby1976

    Very, very quick welding question.(s)

    I doubt the dodgy repair to the upper part of the bulkhead would cause a fail as long as the door is held on securely and the bulkhead does not flex excessively when the brakes are applied or the steering operated or the steering column yanked around.
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