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I'm getting somewhere now... I got the front springs and shocks replaced today, cleaned up the area a bit along with putting on shiny new galv turrets. Still to put the expansion tank back in place etc but I'm happy with how things have come on in the past few weeks. Hopefully she sails...

Right, ignore what I've said about the Weber carb then! Unless you happen to have one...

He said 2.5 Petrol above so I was just assuming straight 17H out of an early 90/110 and kept in the same form. Although yeah more clarification needed, things could've changed, it could be a mistake and actually it's just a standard 2.25!

Also another thing with the carb, as well as blocked jets, with these more complex Webers there's also the possibility of stuck solenoids. One is for the float chamber vent which has a rubber plunger bit on the end, which can come off the pin and get stuck closed. This one is right next to the...

Realistically for the cost of the parts I'd just be doing the whole igition system... points, condenser, cap, leads, coil and plugs. Also if you do have to dig into the carb I have some scans from a haynes manual for the Weber 32/34 DMTL somewhere if you want them. Helped me when I was...

Just throwing my 2c in since I have a 2.5 Petrol 110... I had had some issues with mine starting ok, sometimes running rough and shortly cutting out after a while, turned out it was the condenser! I replaced that and she was running ok again but with a misfire mid range, which then turned...

To me it sounds like the transfer box is the issue... I know 90s came with a 1.4, and earlier ones came with 6.50 tyres, and later 205/75 (or something like that, im just guessing)... So putting massive tyres on even stock you're going to effectively shift everything up a bit higher with...

That is literally the stuff he was referring too.... however to be fair I think the previous comments about it were maybe a little unfair, people do use it to good effect too but I feel like if you use it in the wrong circumstances it can cause more issues. Waxoyl is a bit old school and theres...

Busy day! today I finished off my bush changing, got the second radius arm back on and then did the panhard rod. Then after putting stuff back together I welded up a DIY brake shoe spreader and changed both my rear wheel cylinders. Only one was leaking but I thought I might as well do both...

I think mines been sitting at about 1/3 full, I never topped it up properly after replacing the thermostat. Temps sit nicely just below the half way mark on the gauge, rad hoses nice and hot... all is good! As for the manuals, I got one of the big workshop manuals with my 110, 83-92 I think...

The radius arms literally connect the axle to the chassis, they're the big chunky things that bolt underneath. As far as I'm aware the radius arms connect and keep the axle in position, stopping it moving back/forth and then the panhard rod is there to keep the axle centralised and prevent...

As someone who's spent a good bit of time this weekend doing my own radius arm bushes, nothing to be scared of! I was putting it off but its not too bad a job, the biggest issue I've had was getting the offside arm off. I had to cut the front bolt and the big nut needed a lot of back and forth...

Im hoping for improvements all round really. Not sure if anyone read my earlier posts about this 110 but it'd been off the road for 24ish years, sat on a sloped driveway so springs one side had sagged a bit, and bushes generally a bit worse for wear etc, they could even be original still, I...

So the bushes are all britpart black poly bushes, I know, not the best but as a weekend toy that I won't be doing anything particularly crazy in I think its fine, and I don't have a press to fit metalastic bushes. I'm generally trying to go middle of the road, not absolute cheapest but not...

That's not a bad idea just sticking inexpensive useful stuff like that onto your orders so you have some stock of bits you'll need at some point. Also I've been a little quiet as I'm now trying to do a few little bits every day to work through the backlog... she's temporarily off the road...

Rear springs both done now and shocks replaced! I just need to find a new nut for one sides top mounting as I stripped one. Also just wondering what springs it looks like I removed? They look a little thicker so heavy duty? The new ones I've installed are the standard duty RKB101111s

What have I done today... well discovered my cowboy rebuilt wheel cylinder is still leaking, so new cylinders it is! Then I started to change the springs as I have a whole new set to go on (just standard height/duty britpart, nothing special) and new shocks. Started with the nearside rear...

As someone else said above I would just replace the front grill/light surrounds (can get britpart ones for like £40ish total), maybe the bumper if its damaged or rotten anywhere, or just paint it. Then stuff like the light lenses, I did mine but then I also did get a freebie bag of defender...

I think my pair are more or less the same as those, supposedly heavy duty... Only used them to get one spring out and back in so far, didn't seem the best but they got the job done, along with pry bars and dropping the axle as low as possible. I'm gonna need to break them out again soon as...

It does a bit to be fair, but that's what's stated in my 83-92 workshop manual. I probably just barely went to 120 with mine, after giving the bolts a good clean and a bit of copper grease, and new spring washers.