What have you done on your 90/110/130 today?

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Noticed that the headlights aren't working. I expect it is the switch. It usually is. They still come on with the flash function on the other stalk, and they've both gone together which means that it isn't bulbs or an individual bit of dodgy wiring.
I know some of you prefer to modify the wiring so the stalk switch merely operates a relay or two, so the switch itself doesn't take the full current. However the switches last just long enough to dissuade me. If it was every year, I'd probably do so, but as they last about four years apiece I've not got round to it.
I have known both headlights to go together.
Can be the sudden surge that one going can cause in the other or simply the old bathtub curve.It fooled me when it happened on our BX. I too didn't think it could be the bulbs so the wife took it to a garage, who simply put new ones in. You do not forget such ignominy!!!
 
Started sanding the roof down for painting. Dog of a job given whoever painted it last seems to have used some chewing gum based paint 😏
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Did you get the bigger one, what gauges are you going to put in it?
It came with four switches and two holes for 52mm guages. I’ve already got a boost guage fitted and a voltmeter which I will likely move to the dash pod and blank the holes in the lower dash where the previous owner fitted them. I would like an oil pressure guage so might fit one and keep the voltmeter where it currently sits. Decisions, decisions…
 
It came with four switches and two holes for 52mm guages. I’ve already got a boost guage fitted and a voltmeter which I will likely move to the dash pod and blank the holes in the lower dash where the previous owner fitted them. I would like an oil pressure guage so might fit one and keep the voltmeter where it currently sits. Decisions, decisions…
Oil pressure is a good shout, that's the only extra gauge I have in my 110, it's a nice Durite mechanical one. I quite like being able to watch the pressure, although I need to shorten the capillary tube as its way too long and just coiled up by the bulkhead right now. I meant to put a T piece in for the pressure switch but I can't seem to get the right threaded adapter, so just running the gauge alone for now.

Oil temp might be another good option? or im sure you can get one that combines both. Maybe a tachometer if you don't already have one? Although the electric ones apparently aren't great
 
So today I made the silly move of taking off the bumper to have a look... yeah im not sure exactly what I was expecting tbh.

I'm thinking I'll just try and patch it up as best I can. I don't really fancy replacing the whole dumb iron with a repair piece yet, which is probably the textbook answer.

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So today I made the silly move of taking off the bumper to have a look... yeah im not sure exactly what I was expecting tbh.

I'm thinking I'll just try and patch it up as best I can. I don't really fancy replacing the whole dumb iron with a repair piece yet, which is probably the textbook answer.

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I had the same on my 90 two years ago. I went to replace the bumper only to find the front chassis legs almost non-existent! A previous owner had had some welding done badly which had only hidden the issue. I ended up having a new front chassis section including front crossmember from RCP welded on.
 
I’ve had a dash thing in my garage for a few years now, but can’t bring myself to fit it as it needs a bit of the lower dash chopped out.
Is that the full mud stuff dash? I looked at it but couldn’t face chopping the dash so went with the top dash pod, which fits where the ash tray sits.
 
I had the same on my 90 two years ago. I went to replace the bumper only to find the front chassis legs almost non-existent! A previous owner had had some welding done badly which had only hidden the issue. I ended up having a new front chassis section including front crossmember from RCP welded on.
That sounds like the proper fix! For this im going to just cut away what I can, clean it up and see where things are at. I'm pretty set on trying to patch it back together if at all possible. Just a little further back from the hole on the bottom it actually looks pretty good still, so there's hope... It just seems like its gonna be a bit awkward to cut out and weld bits in

Edit:
Just ordered a new galv bumper to go on as well as the old one is slightly bent, and of course crusty. I was considering a military style one but I don't think they're worth paying twice the price for so standard galv it is with stainless bolts.
 
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That sounds like the proper fix! For this im going to just cut away what I can, clean it up and see where things are at. I'm pretty set on trying to patch it back together if at all possible. Just a little further back from the hole on the bottom it actually looks pretty good still, so there's hope... It just seems like its gonna be a bit awkward to cut out and weld bits in

Edit:
Just ordered a new galv bumper to go on as well as the old one is slightly bent, and of course crusty. I was considering a military style one but I don't think they're worth paying twice the price for so standard galv it is with stainless bolts.
When Ibought my military type bumper it was barely more than the standard one.
 
So today I made the silly move of taking off the bumper to have a look... yeah im not sure exactly what I was expecting tbh.

I'm thinking I'll just try and patch it up as best I can. I don't really fancy replacing the whole dumb iron with a repair piece yet, which is probably the textbook answer.

View attachment 349031
I welded mine up but wasn't quite as bad as that. It looks like the inner part of the chassis rail, where it meets the crossmember, might be rusted out?
 
When Ibought my military type bumper it was barely more than the standard one.
Seems now a standard galv aftermarket one is about £90-100... galv military about 150+.

I welded mine up but wasn't quite as bad as that. It looks like the inner part of the chassis rail, where it meets the crossmember, might be rusted out?

I'm going to properly clean it up later but I don't think its gone quite that far back to the crossmember. I just feel like I need to weld it up for now to get it through MOT and the winter and see how long the repairs last... then when the time comes go chopping sections off to replace.

I'm conscious with being nearly 40 years old that it might get to the point where a new chassis is needed, but I'm hoping that would be 5-10+ years down the line when I'm in a better position to do it. For now I'm patching things up as best I can (to be fair this is only the second bit of welding, the other being the rear crossmember) and trying to hold the rust back.
 
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