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I did plug back the AAP with the new MAP, still runs poorly (not sure if it's the new MAP that was not working or if the problem is elsewhere) I've install a turbo gauge and plugged from the turbo pipe to measure the 1.4bar, without the bypass or with the bypass but the aap connected it stays...

Hmmm other then lack of power above 3k rpm the truck always starts with no problem and runs well. It's a cheap repair sure but I'm afraid of messing up the injectors lol then it becomes a very expensive repair. I will study how to do it or find a good mechanic to do the job, tks for the tip

Question if I did the wastegate bypass does the ECU still can do overboost to protect the turbo if I set the threads too low?

So quick update to you guys, I cancel the order for the launch scanner because a friend with a Nanocom was gonna read my truck but things didnt work out so anyways, I purchase a a new MAP and it also didn't work (although it was a cheap chinese one because I can't find the original Bosh)...

Yes, that's what every EGR blanking kit manual says, what I'm asking is: can I remove the whole modulator and all the vacuum hoses? What purpose they have if I removed the EGR already

Hey guys I blank my EGR a while ago and a friend advised me to remove the vacuum modulator all together. Mine is a 2001 Td5 Eu2 10p Now some websites warn you that by doing that it can affect brake, but according to the manual it doesn't mentioned that at all What is your guys opinion on this?

Oh yeah I will definitelly go with @sierrafery advice, btw thank you both for helping me figure this out! A MAP will be much easier and cheaper to find here then a AAP. I've got a Launch CRP123e, I don't really have much options around here and a nanocom would cost 6x more to import

Mine is a Eu2 and I'm having a hard time finding a new AAP sensor, can only find used ones so maybe this is my only option. I've purchase a scanner tool, hopefuly it will read map, maf and aap. I've also search other threads and found another person with the exactly same issue as mine...

* Update * So, @sierrafery I disconnected the AAP sensor the one attached to the Airbox and OMG the difference is crazy! I always knew the truck was not running properly and tried it out everything out there but this is it! It runs so much better now, It pulls much better and it goes up to 4k...

According to manual if I disconnect my MAP sensor it would ready a default value, so in theory it would make the car run better? Also, I'm having a hard time finding the bosch 281002205 but I did find an alternative BOSCH 0281002316 that looks like a perfect match

@sierrafery I just had a very interesting discovery lol, since you mentioned MAP sensor I was looking at at prices online and notice that the pictures was very different from the one I have in the car, it fits perfect though... So it's probably a different version? Mine is a BOSCH 281002205 And...

Great post thank you, believe or not, importing a Nanocom to Brazil is insanely expensive due to taxes and shipping. I can find pretty much any part I need here and it's not that expensive, so far everything I replace I really need it since the car was sitting for the last 4 years. I was...

Unfortunately I can't, nanocoms are not available here and to import one it will cost a arm and a leg o_O I don't really know what else I can do without a reader

Hey guys I'm having this annoying issue since I got this truck 6 months ago, I know this ain't no racing car but I mean cmon it's just way too slow to build momentum, 0-100km/h takes 3 weeks and top speed barely reachs 120km/h At full throtle it goes kind all right until it hits 2.5k to 3k rpm...

Thank you so much @Steven Sheppard I've changed the fuel temp sensor and clean the connectors and no more cut out!! This was driving me crazy haha, again thank you! - Truck is driving way better now

Not late at all I still have the issue lol but I switch my CKP sensor to the old one, it runs a little rough but at least it never cuts out the engine... Thank you for sharing your experience, I will take a look at this, it's probably a bad wire and I'm really bad with eletrical issue so I'm...

Since I still didn't figured it out the issue I plugged back the old ckp sensor because the cut out didn't happen, the gear change is not great, it kind of holds shifting but at least I can drive around

Got around 19.7 - 19.8 so probably good?

This post looks like gold information and it totally makes sense but unfortunately, I'm an ape when it comes to electrical issues 🙈 - I do have a multimeter but I have no idea how to perform this test. One thing that comes to mind though, is when I replaced the Fuel filter I was not aware of...

Unfortunately I don't have access to a Nanocom and importing one would be extremely expensive due to taxes. All the parts I replace so far were indeed needing replacement but I guess now I have no choice but to go to a mechanic lol. I think it's either bad wiring or ECU, will post the solution...