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wish I could do this, For the amount of taxes to import things like cars/engines esp old ones, fixing it remains the best option. But also am building this at leisure since I do have Defender 110 200tdi and I did buy it very cheap, now I know why lol

thank you Datatek, will set the timing and see after getting the new chains and sprockets. One more thing, Do you happen to know the part number for the sump gasket, All I can see online are for the V8 sump

pump looks okay, only woodruff key needed to be replaced, but you are right, I think so too... something else may be wrong somewhere, especially for the loud compression noise I was hearing while cranking.

thank you @Datatek, will do, anything else you think should be replaced for more engine efficiency?

hello again, I manage to take the timing cover off, here is the photo I took I took as soon as front timing cover was off s As you can see at TDC, the chain links are almost 12 but the chain bright links are not in the right position, secondly after removing crank and pump sprockets, I found...

thanks again, came to know about it here after googling, won't allow easystart again. is it normal when you crank manually to hear small compression noises, if the top cover is opened?

So today could not get time to do compression test and inspect the timing. This evening just open the top level and crank it to TDC. Hope it's a right position. Second thing I put valve timing tool. One thing for sure the oil was dirty. Tomorrow will continue with compression and timing check.

yah, this one is manual, thanks a lot for the input. I have checked the coolant and oil and did not see any mixed liquid in any of them. I belive next thing is to compression check and to see if the timing chain jumped

First thing I will do tomorrow is compression test, so on the manifold usually if you put hand as trying to block air, you will feel like there is air being sucked. But that is not the case. You can't feel anything. Car still crank tho and you can see fuel on the injection pipes

Hello again, I believe I have cause even more problems, last two days I let my local mechanics to work on it. So they crank for a while with no success after that they spray something into intake manifold but also did not start. Lastly they pull the p38 with another car and start it on gear...

can u explain it more, so while you are cranking you look at the rev counter? and how do you tab it back or forth depending on what the rev counter? below what number you tap back and above what number you tap forth. I can use this while waiting for nanocom.

Yes, as other members have said, having a diagnostic tool is super important to know the revs and adjusting. Do anyone know the link I can buy nanocom evolution from UK?

:confused::confused: will give feedback tomorrow evening

i beleive he has T4 Mobile + diagnostic tool. Will that work?

thank you Datatek, I know someone who has a diagnostic tool I can use. That will be tomorrow's Job. But if there is anyone who has used 11mm head pump, and would like to know the setup tips. Because the fuel is coming from injectors but not enough pressure to start the car

I think so too, but the previous owner did put a time-relay on the hot start issue to trick the car as its not hot, but it does not work, the glow plug will come on every time but won't start. Hence I decided to change the head pump and FIP temp sensor. The head pump we use was from Nissan...

What pin? I did sent the pump to the shop for head replacement, so not really sure how it works

Hello, Let me just jump in, so I changed a head pump/rotor after having difficulties starting when hot. Through it I also changed FIP temp sensor and since the triangle security bolt was broken, I replaced it with the normal bolt . Currently, the car is not starting, But I can see injectors...

hahahahah

sure thing, will do it when I have a chance