P38 Injection Pump, Not Starting

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fosha

Member
Posts
21
Hello,
Let me just jump in, so I changed a head pump/rotor after having difficulties starting when hot. Through it I also changed FIP temp sensor and since the triangle security bolt was broken, I replaced it with the normal bolt .
Currently, the car is not starting, But I can see injectors 1,2,3,5 firing Okay except for 4 and 6.
Here are some of my questions for understanding the situation:
1. What is the purpose of the security bolt and is it okay to use a normal one? Or should I narrow the bottom of the bolt just like the original one?
2. Since its firing for some of the injectors can we say this is a timing issue or should we still consider the new pump head/rotor as the issue? I have seen some videos where people hammer the FIP while cranking.

any suggestions are welcome
 
What pin? I did sent the pump to the shop for head replacement, so not really sure how it works
 
Last edited:
The security bolt can be replaced with an ordinary bolt.
Sounds like you have messed up the FIP. The hot starting problem would have been down to modulation being out due to chain stretch, all that was needed was to re-time the FIP.
 
I think so too, but the previous owner did put a time-relay on the hot start issue to trick the car as its not hot, but it does not work, the glow plug will come on every time but won't start. Hence I decided to change the head pump and FIP temp sensor. The head pump we use was from Nissan Patrol 11mm, I think It may be the reason. Will try to change it back to its previous head and see
 
fosha said:
I think so too, but the previous owner did put a time-relay on the hot start issue to trick the car as its not hot, but it does not work, the glow plug will come on every time but won't start. Hence I decided to change the head pump and FIP temp sensor. The head pump we use was from Nissan Patrol 11mm, I think It may be the reason. Will try to change it back to its previous head and see
Click to expand...
Hot start problems are almost always down to FIP timing being out due to chain stretch. Simply retiming the FIP will fix the problem. Diagnostics would show if there was anything wrong with the FIP itself. Without diagnostics, you are flying blind.
 
thank you Datatek, I know someone who has a diagnostic tool I can use. That will be tomorrow's Job. But if there is anyone who has used 11mm head pump, and would like to know the setup tips. Because the fuel is coming from injectors but not enough pressure to start the car
 
fosha said:
thank you Datatek, I know someone who has a diagnostic tool I can use. That will be tomorrow's Job. But if there is anyone who has used 11mm head pump, and would like to know the setup tips. Because the fuel is coming from injectors but not enough pressure to start the car
Click to expand...
The P38 requires specialised diagnostics, it's not OBD compliant, so many garage diagnostics will not work.
 
The pump top has to be marked up on 3 sides and go back in EXACTLY the same place. Even after that the act of removing it can cause issues and you might need to slacken it off ever so slightly and tap it back or forth a bit to get it to idle at 750 rpm. If you do this soneone must be inside ready to kill the ignition if the revs go through the roof. Fractions of a millimetre matter.
 
Grrrrrr said:
The pump top has to be marked up on 3 sides and go back in EXACTLY the same place. Even after that the act of removing it can cause issues and you might need to slacken it off ever so slightly and tap it back or forth a bit to get it to idle at 750 rpm. If you do this soneone must be inside ready to kill the ignition if the revs go through the roof. Fractions of a millimetre matter.
Click to expand...
Yes, as other members have said, having a diagnostic tool is super important to know the revs and adjusting. Do anyone know the link I can buy nanocom evolution from UK?
 
can u explain it more, so while you are cranking you look at the rev counter? and how do you tab it back or forth depending on what the rev counter? below what number you tap back and above what number you tap forth. I can use this while waiting for nanocom.
 
fosha said:
can u explain it more, so while you are cranking you look at the rev counter? and how do you tab it back or forth depending on what the rev counter? below what number you tap back and above what number you tap forth. I can use this while waiting for nanocom.
Click to expand...
Grrrr has eyes on stalks :cool:
 
fosha said:
can u explain it more, so while you are cranking you look at the rev counter? and how do you tab it back or forth depending on what the rev counter? below what number you tap back and above what number you tap forth. I can use this while waiting for nanocom.
Click to expand...

You need it running before you start messing with the rev counter. That's for fine tuning.

As Brian said, if the top is off you need to make sure the peg engages with the collar on reassembly. The top should have been marked up on 3 sides to ensure it is not twisted and goes back in exactly the same place. If this wasn't done you're going to have to adjust and keep trying until it starts and then fine tune from there. Just getting the thing apart can affect it though and as you tighten up it can be enough ti change the idle rpm so it might take a few attempts. It can be a right fiddly so and so and even after that it might take 30 miles of driving to settle down completely.

You might want to check the static timing (as per RAVE) in case anyone has fiddled with that. All six glow plugs need to be working too. In my experience Beru are best. That way you're giving yourself the best chance to start. It would be worth checking the EMS code matches in the BECM as it will crank but not run if that has been corrupted.
 
Hello again,
I believe I have cause even more problems, last two days I let my local mechanics to work on it. So they crank for a while with no success after that they spray something into intake manifold but also did not start. Lastly they pull the p38 with another car and start it on gear, started but the rev was too high they turn it off. And we called it a day. Yesterday had to crank again but noticed there is no compression on the manifold. So now am thinking we f*** something when we were trying to start it on gear.
 
fosha said:
Hello again,
I believe I have cause even more problems, last two days I let my local mechanics to work on it. So they crank for a while with no success after that they spray something into intake manifold but also did not start. Lastly they pull the p38 with another car and start it on gear, started but the rev was too high they turn it off. And we called it a day. Yesterday had to crank again but noticed there is no compression on the manifold. So now am thinking we f*** something when we were trying to start it on gear.
Click to expand...
"Compression on the manifold"??? The only compression should be in the cylinders.
If it didn't start on Easy Start, there is a major problem.
I think you have fecked the FIP.
You need to do a compression test on each cylinder.
 
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