Search results

Hi AnnuvaUser - you’re posting in quite an old thread about injector issues… suggest you create a new post about your specific issue so everyone can see it clearly. I’m sure there will be advice forthcoming. (Have you taken the door card off yet to have a look? ;))

Yeah - there is a crank sensor, but not heard of them going that much. Cam sensors are a little more prone I believe. The one on it is only a year old, but then I’m not certain it was a ‘known’ brand. Just don’t want to keep trying parts randomly. Certainly worth it if I can confirm the...

… and this is killing my battery! Drains now after 30 seconds of play crank time

So I’m still trying to get my TD4 to start (cranking only, see other recent thread with data)… Question; would a duff cam shaft sensor allow crank but prevent ignition completely? (Tries to fire on easy start but will not run at all). I’ve just seen something on you tube back-probing the loom...

confirmed fuel physically getting to the HP pump…

Think I’m going to start with check the fuel delivery, starting just after the LP pump filter, then work from there.

…lol, just wishful thinking as I ponder my dilemma!

Engine WILL try to fire on easy start, but won’t run at all, so suggests no fuel getting through? … fuel pressure sensor (end of fuel rail) reading 0.5v, so that seems fine Anyone want to sell me a decent F2!

UPDATE; Sudden non-starting… just crank, no ignition. No MIL. No loss of power previously. Not been struggling at all. Replaced HP regulator with new. No change, still cranking but no ignition. Anyone see anything obvious in the below data (obviously just ignition on as the bloody thing won’t...

Well, funny you say that… I did last night But only after I got fed up with it all (eventually got the regulator out - what fool thought using torx bolts in an area where you can’t easily get to…. Wait, it’s a LR…) Anyway, got the regulator out, checked the O rings and have to say, they looked...

I didn’t see that optional extra listed anywhere

Question..; I have the regulator out right now (O rings look ok to me, but fitting new). If I put 12v power to the 2 terminals at the end of the regulator, should it ‘do something’? E.g. can I test it?

Thinking about it - I may just get a new regulator and fit it. If I replace the O rings and refit to a state to be able to fire it up, then find out it needs the regulator, I’ll kick myself. Hard.

Will replace the O rings - just heard the Pscan should be here for weekend, so may help understand more then. Any idea on the long-reach socket size for the rail sensor (battery end)? Connection looks fine, but may well replace the sensor… when I can get the bloody thing out! Must be about 25mm...

The regulator itself, or the o rings? I have all the air box/pipes off at the moment, so will try the easy-start test and report back

Well I’ve ordered an O ring kit, just in case. I’ve cleaned the rail sensor (was clean anyway), though of course it could have ‘failed’ electrically. I’m hoping the Pscan offers me a lead…

Further update; Tinkered again tonight whilst waiting for the Pscan to arrive… cranked and almost fired again, before knackering the battery. So I’m leaning to fuel related issue?

Update - threw the (fully charged) battery back on this morning just to see what would happen… exactly the same, although in the first 2 seconds of crank it tried to fire, then nothing again. So fuel related somewhere…? Have emailed @pscan.eu to order the Pscan unit, as well as O-ring kit for...

Looking good - and a fun journey for you

Yeah… I sent my icarsoft scanner back after being seriously unimpressed with its ability. I vowed that I would buy the Pscan, just haven’t needed to (so far!)