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Thanks for the update Nodge.

Thanks Nodge68, I've also realised/remembered that one of my previous questions on here regarding similar though not quite the same symptoms (worked fine at first but fierce once warmed up and on the move) had received a very detailed and well explained answer from none other than your good...

Hi all, My first post for a while - had trouble remembering how! Clutch seems generally a bit fierce and juddery, except during the recent hot weather when it seems fine. I'm thinking it might be the heat is expanding and freeing up something that's a bit tight at cooler temperatures? Or do...

Thanks for that Nodge68. Good to know.

Cheers - a different fixing arrangement from the shoes on the few (mainly old MBs) drum brakes what I've changed in the past. You'd think that total loss of brakes was something that shud not be possible by design

Thanks AndyFreelandy I'll see if the drums would like to come of!

Are they the pins that turn in 90 degrees and held in wiv a small spring that's prone to fly orft and get lost? Don't all drum brakes have those pins to hold the shoes?

So what's the fix? The spray lubricant or just meticulous cleaning - I'm thinking copper wire brush - of the splines and bearing slide before greasing. Or sumink else as well?

My one wheel up test is prob just a bit over a minute so will get done soon ish. The click is just one click rather than the repetitive clicking that a front cv joint gives on lock. It happens when pulling away particularly after previously reversing but notice it when going round left hand...

Thanks for the advice GrumpyGel another thing I get is a click from the rear when pulling away or going round corners it doesn't sound particularly nasty. (I've tried the subframe bolts and levering with a bar as I thought it could be that dodgy subframe captive nut issue - still not convinced...

Strange one for me this but clutch seems nice and smooth when engine still cold but when warmed up becomes fiercer/judderry. So far I've copper greased the slave pushrod and oiled the shaft where it enters the bellhousing. Also am going to change the IRD oil, is the filler/level the plastic...

Thanks for all the replies guys! I'll post my nextquestion soon!

PO had it in Italy when he first got it hence the km/hr speedo even though british ones come with an inner ring of km/hr? I'll post a pic prob in me profile pic So some protection from disaster is to be afforded by drive belt and tensioner as a first stop gap measure then. From underneath can...

That's a nice looking Freelander! I'm more than happy with the boring reliability side of life. Mine's silver too on approx 72k the exentric PO ordered it with a km/hr speedo! It's 1998 model don't know when belts were changed. I previously had a saxo petrol 'cos of the astronomic residents...

Thanks Nodge - don't forget the L series has two belts and the pump timing belt is maybe the one that is fine as regards instant starting. I've helped a mechanic do several belts for customers and I've done two on my own cars but aforementioned mr oily was there to answer all my dumbass...

Thanks for that, so far I've found a guy near Ashford in Kent Steve aka "Roverman" and also FreelanderSpecialist.com both of whom should be more than capable of obtaining the correct parts. Trouble can be that some suppliers list the wrong parts from the reg. no. there're two widths 28mm or 32mm...

Thanks for that, I'll be get all three! Currently starts on the button, purrslike a kitten etc etc