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Could just be your guide pins siezed, only £10-£15 for a front set. If your piston is siezed then it will be a new caliper, about £70-£80 per side. Wouldn't bother upgrading to a higher spec caliper, could put the braking ratio between front and back out of spec.

Keyfob battery, couple of quid from asda. This happened to me with both fob batteries going within a couple of days, if you've never changed the batteries before they'll be the same age. Fob just pulls apart to exposes the battery.

Flood alarm, check the water level in your boot!!!:p

Oil in a diesel engine will always be black in colour, you will never find clear oil in a diesel sump unless you check after an oil change befoe it's been run up. It blackens as soon as the engine runs.

L series engines are bulletproof, just make sure you get one with a post 2001 IRD. Good for veg oil aswell. Had a few problems with mine but nothing major - aprt from the IRD which I replaced with a post 2001 model. If your going to buy one I'd say get the Xedi (L series).

Grips will be ok, just be carefull and don't get too heavy handed. I must have been lucky with mine cos they came out with a small twist from a set of pliers.

Veg oil is not corrosive to any parts. If you get a bad batch of biodiesel then excess methanol/caustic soda (methoxide) in it can corrode/rot your seals but not straight veg oil. I have been running straight veg in mine for some time now, up to 95% in peak summer (not sure if that was a good...

Finally found the page i was looking for, check out this for the L series boost pressure increase and how to measure them: lseries2

I thought LR solved the problem with the VCU/IRD when they changed the ratio of the IRD post 2001:confused:. I presume from this thread this is not the case:cool: ?

Ref the IRD, is it recommended to change the oil after a certain mileage after fitting a new box or, if the level's ok, don't bother? Thinking about a 'running in' period where bearings will bed in.

Cheers for letting us know the outcome, another fault highlighted for me to look out for!! (which eedjit mentioned fuel pumps:p).

You can still get a fault appearing from the sensors if they are OK (yours are ok if you got thoses readings). The resistance test shows that the sensors are in good working order but if they have slipped (air gap incorrect) or dirty (road dirt or corrsion near the phonic wheel) they will appear...

I believe, and I'll have to check my figures, that the fuel system will cut the fuel to the engine if the boost pressure goes above 20psi to protect the engine from overpressuring. Remeber this from somewhere, maybe someone else can confirm while I go away and double check.

I'd recommend an Xedi, had no problems with my engine and if you want to go down the veggie route it's the best choice of freelander. Had the normal freelander probs, IRD (replaced), leaking door seal (fixed with silcone sealant), antiroll bar link arm worn (£18 for a new one), window operating...

Agree with aussie, when the HDC operates the brake pads are continuously applied and released very quickly make a sort pulsing springy sound, this will be different from a metal scraping sound. If you only get the noise with HDC and it works OK then I'd say it was the normal noise of the valves.

Is it a metal on metal noise and does it only happen in HDC mode or do you get a similar noise when under normal braking? May sound basic but have you checked your brake pads/shoes to see if thier down to the metal?

It's a resonator box to reduce intake noise, if the noise doesn't bother you you can block it off.

Further to the last post, I was replacing the IRD on mine and that affected one of the front sensors and gave the same symptoms, pulled it out, cleaned it and it worked perfect after that.

Good technical answer there Mong, nice to see your knowledge being shared with all us 'inferior' earthlings.:p

why would a faulty fuel pump cause the engine to overheat:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: