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Would 80 quid posted do you?

Still here. Sold the bullbar and wheel spacer but still got the lift kit.

All stuff I took off my Freelander 1 after I bought it :- 40mm lift kit and brand new camber bolts - £80 Bull bar, fitting and a V6 bumper - £100 Set of five wheels (early type) - need new tyres £50. Could post the lift kit but the rest will probably need collected as too heavy and bulky to...

When I took mine up for the MOT recently I thought the tester was going to put his feet through the floor the amount of effort he was putting into lifting the hand brake to get it up to the pass threshold. Decent tester! You may have seen on the news that, at the moment, it is not possible to...

Used the Freelander to pull a couple of rotten old cars out of a field on a friend's land so that the scrappy can fetch them. The Geolanders work very well in mud. Had to abuse the clutch a bit more than I liked but pulled them out no bother. Feel like I have justified having a 4x4 now!

I use Google Chrome to view the site and have Adblocker Plus running. No adverts at all with that set up.

Geolanders on mine. £385 for four fitted. Under £400 for five is good! Like stated above, what tyres are good depends on what you to use the car for. Mine had cheap mud tyres on when I got it. Probably OK on mud but dreadful on tarmac and ridiculously noisy.

That box fitted to your car is not a synergy though. Probably does nothing. A synergy box can give a good power increase if you make the car breath better at the same time. Does make the high pressure fuel pump work harder though and put more pressure on the whole system.

I am sure it does place a bit more stress on things, but I had a Synergy 1 on my Rover 75 CDTi for about 80k miles with no detrimental effects and a very beneficial effect on power, but the car was well maintained. Sadly I learnt the other day that the guy I sold her to has decided to break it...

These are the ones you need for the heater controls https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-1-2w-5mm-Capless-Bulb-Dashboard-Interior-Instrument-Light-Pack-Of-10/171864638054?hash=item2803ee4266:g:YxcAAOSwpZlbhRof

Fixed my heated rear window today. After pulling the back door apart to check all of the wiring turned out to be a faulty relay in the fuse box in the cabin.

If the wiper is not in the home position the window will not drop and the door will not open.

Cradle on mine is pretty rotten (plates nearly all gone) but main straps and bars solid enough and tank secure. It passed the MOT the other day with no bother. Can't see why a welded cradle would fail if it is secure and looks like a decent job.

Fitted poly bushes into the rear diff mounts. Should stop the knocking from the back end.

Stuck another used diff in yesterday (lot easier to do second time around, especially as all the bolt are copperslipped now) and with great relief it passed the Northern Ireland MOT this evening. Things are looking up.

I know someone who got a smelly old two stroke Yamaha RD350LC tested for the ULEZ and it passed no bother.

In same dilemma with mine. Original diff killed by overtight VCU and the used one I fitted must have come from a car with the same problem because it is whining now. Think I will take a trip around the breakers and try another used one if I can find one cheaply before I stump up 300 notes for...

Looks like the used diff I fitted is more worn than I thought. Getting increasingly whiney on the motorway. Now do I go for another used one, bite the bullet and buy a reconditioned one or try and rebuild the one I have myself?

Messy alright, my clothes still smell of diesel!

It was only flooding out when ignition on and pump running thankfully. Especially since I had a full tank!