Search results

Many thanks for posing this. It definitely looks like it could be the wire that is missing from my car. I will be happy to purchase one if you are happy to sell.

Many thanks for posting this. Unfortunately this wire is not in my vehicle. Can you tell me where it goes to on the left side of your picture as I am suspecting it has been cut off from the loom?

No wire plugged in. Can't find wire. Compressor clutch remotely tested and working as it should.

No feed wire plugged in to the compressor. Can't find wire. Compressor clutch remotely tested and working.

Yes it looks like original equipment and yes I need to find the missing power feed wire to the compressor

2004 TD4 FL1 This vehicle is fitted with an air con system and the compressor, switches and relays are all in place. The problem is there is no feed wire or plug to the compressor. It may have been cut and removed at some time and not replaced. All the wiring diagrams I have downloaded show a...

Thanks Kev but not listed on his site.

I need to replace the nozzles on the injectors and the part number stamped on them is: DLLA145 P928+ 048731 939 The only ones I can source have the following numbers: DLLA 145 P928 0443172 928 Is the different second number an issue or is it just a batch number? Thanks

Many thanks. Will check that out.

Thanks Nodge. TD4 FL1 Has brand new fuel pump and filter . With the sensor connected Low fuel pressure is at 31 then rises to 300 plus and all is well .....for a bit.... and then drops down again. DTC 1260 Map sensor clean and working. Maf sensor new. Hp rail sensor new. No lights on dash and...

I have located what I believe to be the the low fuel pressure switch/sensor (not sure of the correct name) which is fitted under the ECU box. If I disconnect this the engine runs a lot better. Also what is the best way to test this and if it is faulty where do I purchase from? What should the...

Most appreciated Paul, great explanation and just what I needed. Have had three different code readers on it and they all come up with 'No Faults' so I will change the crank sensor as a matter of course.

Once again thank you Paul. If you have a normal solenoid would it not just have one 12 volt power lead and one negative? If so have I got some rogue voltage in the brown/white wire?

Thanks Paul. I also have a problem with the wires. At some time the connectors have been pulled out of the plug. The plug is marked 1 and 2 and I'm not sure which way round the wires go. I can't find a wiring diagram to show this.

Does anyone know what the supply voltage to the solenoid should be? I have tested the red/white wire and get 12.15 volts supply and then tested the brown/white which shows 3.3volts. This is with red probe on wire and black probe to earth on each wire. Reading across both wires is 8.75volts When...

Thanks to all for the replies I have removed the turbo successfully and purchased a new core. The actuator and the vanes were clogged solid and were all cleaned and tested and now moving perfectly. I have a problem when fitting the exhaust side. When I tighten the screws the actuator arm goes...

That's too posh for me

Having found that my Turbo is so badly coked up and the actuator is stuck I am now attempting to remove the Turbo.!! Enough said !! Anyway having discovered that the complete rocker cover and air filter housing also need removing to allow access to the three bolts on the top of the exhaust...

Thanks for your reply. As far as I can see the vacuum pipes all look to be in good order

I have a freelander 1 TD4 which starts first time but then runs badly and wont rev more than 1500 rpm until the the temp gauge gets to about half way and then the power comes in and it runs perfectly! Is this a common problem and can anybody point me in the right direction to fix this. Could it...