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My thoughts exactly

Boost pipes are presurising when pedal down...

Ok, thanks for the advice thus far... so I replaced the in tank pump and there was a slight improvement in up hill grunt, but not a lot and the original problem still persists. Off the mark sometimes I get boost, most of the times its flat as a pancake. Going up hills is fine up to a point and...

Well, opened the tank and removed the gubbins, more muck than a school kitchen U bend in the white plastic housing... removed the filter bag and soaked everything thoroughly with petrol, drying overnight in the shed now and will test drive it in the morning, but I'm pretty sure that must have...

Thanks for the assistance guys, have the day off tommorow so will investigate further based on your advice and report back :)

MAP sensor seems okay, pipe in A1 condition, clear and connected. Intercooler was removed and soaked in kero overnight before being flushed about 6 weeks back. All silicon hoses for turbo circuit, no splits I can see. No MIL lamp on dash...

Hi folks, Hope you're all well. My 1997 2.5 dse auto (alloy intake) has just begun loosing power, simmilar to limp mode, but will rev above 2000rpm when pushed. It starts and drives fine, then (usually after a gear shift) looses all thrust and just plods along. Now, heres the odd bit... when...

Old post I know, but just for the sake of it; Foobared is derived from the millitary acronym FUBAR - F***ed Up Beyond All Recognition

Didnt seem quite so obvious to anyone other than you or I...

I think what OP means is the ZF5HP24 box used in the L322 between '02 & '05 perhaps? Thats a 5 speed autobox...

Contributions to threads that died a while ago are still potentially usefull to those who come after, as too are further hints and observations etc. I only fell accross this 10 year old thread because it is still relevant to diagnosing my oil leak today. I really dont see an issue with...

Plumbing PTFE tape isnt man enough for the job, try Gas PTFE tape (yellow case) its 10x thicker. Dont wind it round the thread loads, just 1 1/2 turns is enough.

Ok, so the pump is off and the two luggs are sitting next to one another and are deffinately both sheared off... I'm guesing the 10mm bolts on the inside will expose the pump gears, attatched to which will be the broken lugg drive shell, which can hopefully all be replaced?

Thanks again for the offer of guidance :) I got the engine and box out, left transfer box in place. Ive split the box off the engine... I cant see any lugs inside the pump recess, not obviously at least, should there be two lugs the same size as the cutouts on the TC sleeve? There is what looks...

Much appreciated, Thankyou :)

okay, nice one, thanks. I'll let you know when I get the box off and what state it's in. Live n learn huh!

S once the TC is secured on the box input shaft, you have to secure the flex plate bolts through the remaining gap between block and bell housing ? Sounds spectacularly fiddly!

Damn. Wasn't aware of that :/ Can it be repaired and if not what do I need to replace?

Fitted torque converter to flex plate, then guided it onto the shaft, snag free pretty much,had to rotate crank 5 degrees or so to align the splines. Both faces mated up near enough for bolts to close up the gap as evenly as possible.

Just replaced my 97 P38 2.5 DSE with an identical low milage unit including all loom and ECU still atatched and coded to the injecion pump. Engine runs like a charm, cleared driveway of tools etc while engine running on tick over, once engine warm held it at 2000 rpm for a minute to listen for...