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I made a couple of shims made of bicycle tubes for the extension. I didn't get rattling but I had wind noise coming from the hole. At first I thought it was the snorkel causing all that wind noise but luckily it wasn't that. I will probably squeeze a piece of sponge in there to tighten the fit...

So today I had the chance to fit my DIY diff lock lever (and Southdown snorkel ) and do a quick spin in mud. Much better performance when the diff was locked and the TC deactivated. And not having the annoying buzzing from the TC was also a welcomed bonus. In case anyone is interested here is a...

It seems I will be spending some £ on a SRD500070 at some point in the next few weeks

No, only with the TC. Haven't tried CDL or CDL & TC in mud yet

Yes, I understand that and it works in most cases. The thing is that in muddy conditions when the TC kicks in and locks one of the front wheels the vehicle then suddenly swerves to the left or right. At least this is what I have experienced in a couple of cases.

I do have the early SLABS ECU so I will take your advice and lock the CD before ignition

If I do lock it while the engine is running then the TC will also be active. If I lock it before turning the engine on then the TC will be deactivated. I remember you saying that the first scenario is not optimum. I my case I can have 3 different options; Only TC Only CDL TC and CDL

So, since I found an easy way to use the CDL on my TD5 I was wondering when should one prefer using the CDL instead of the TC and vice versa. For example I found that the TC in mud is not very helpful since by applying brakes in one of the front wheels it makes the vehicle turn unexpectedly...

Bought mine from Amazon and came in a Bosch box. A month after I replaced it I have a leak again and I need to check if it is coming from the regulator itself or the gasket...

I'm referring to Discovery 2 Td5

After a lot of searching I concluded that on D2's before 2003 you can not just buy the UJ on its own. For earlier models the UJ is not available anywhere and LR doesn't give a part number for it. The fitting to the shaft is not compatible with QLE500010 that I posted above. The fitting on the...

Hi all, I want to replace the lower steering joint as it has developed a lot of play. Trying to locate the correct part wasn't a success. Part number QLE500010 is referenced as compatible with D2 2003/2004 on some sites. How about my 2001? Is it possible to replace only the lower joint or do I...

As far as I know on a D2 you can only adjust toe at the front. If camber or castor is off then something is bent or worn and needs replacing. No adjustments can be made to the rear wheels. Let us know your findings.

Thanks

Is this to ensure that the box is in its center position?

Some people just eyeball the marks and if they look correct they don't bother readjusting with the pins. But it seems to be so sensitive that only the locking pins provide 100% accuracy. So if you have an issue with reduced power and it is not one of the usual suspects (sensors, turbo, boost...

Mine was recently rebuilt and timing wasn't set tight. I guess it takes hundreds of thousands to make a difference.

Yes, getting the timing between the crankshaft and the camshaft to specs using the timing pins. I did read somewhere that the td5 is very sensitive to the adjustment and mine was off by very very little. I guess checking the adjustment makes a difference since the timing chain stretches a tiny...

Update Issue was resolved today (I hope this is final). Timing was off by a hair and this made a huge difference after fine tuning it. Power was significantly affected at low rpm and when the ac was on it "killed" the engine. So lesson learnt.

I was also thinking that the belt should struggle with so much resistance but it seems to cope ok. No squealing, no burnt rubber. When cruising on the motorway you can definitely feel the strain on the engine when the a/c turns on but it's not as pronounced as when taking off. On the other hand...