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Hi Rick, Are you still the guy to ask to fix a Disco 2 BCU? Thanks, Muddy.

If the engine's not back in yet, suggest you put both boxes in gear (high ratio and preferably 4th) and get someone to turn the input shaft of the LT77 a specific number of times (say 20) whilst you count the number of revolutions the LT230 output does. Then you can double check that the LT230...

Assuming you've got standard diff ratio and LT77 main 'box, I'd expect you to be doing around 2600-2700rpm at 70mph in 5th. My 110 with a standard 1.4 LT230 does a little over 3200rpm at 70mph whereas the 90 with a 1.003 used to do around 2100rpm before I put the R380 in, so splitting that in...

I might be misunderstanding you but if you have galvanised skins and non-galvanised frame, are you sure there won't be a reaction? My understanding is that any dissimilar metals cause an electrolytic reaction so zinc and steel will still react unless they are isolated. You ideally need the frame...

Steel doors will still dent easily given how thin they are and are arguably harder to beat back out nicely and of course if you do scratch them through the galvanising then you'll have rust problems forever more. If you do go down the ally route instead, then make sure you put some plastic...

If you're handy with a welder (or know someone who is) you could just create a straight through yourself. All you need is a length of stainless tube and then either make up a couple of preferable stainless flanges or expanded swaged section welded together. Because my B reg 90 has become a bit...

Sorry, already had significantly higher offer. Thanks for your interest though.

Nanocom unlocked for Disco 2 V8. Turns on, screen glows, beeps a bit, single beep if you touch screen anywhere. After a bit turns off without doing anything. Anyone feel like making me a sensible offer on the chance they can get it repaired by BBS? Thanks.

Appreciate the advice. I only know what I've read about the Lynx and there doesn't appear to be much about it that I can find hence me asking for anyone's advice. You appear to be the only person so it's an average of negative currently but if anyone else can chip in, I'd appreciate it. Know a...

Any particular issues with the Lynx? (Comments on LZ don't appear overly negative apart from lack of manual - but then same can be said for Nanocom). Noticed old post of yours about same system as Hawkeye but surely that's good. Is it just a pain to connect to tablet as was thinking it'd be a...

Thanks, looks like that's the answer then, although I'm not wasting my time trying to deal with BS again. Anyone want to make me a (sensible) offer for it on the understanding you'll have to get it repaired yourself, feel free. Comes with cables, unlocked for Disco 2 V8. Now the question of...

Before I throw it away (as I should have done long ago), anyone any experience of getting these things repaired without having to deal with BBS? Screen lights, beeps a few times but then screen switches off and totally unresponsive. Guess it's blown something at some point when inadvertently...

Anyone any idea what the output voltage from the standard Thor coil packs are? Noticed the 90 with Ford coil packs from EDIS seem to give out a fatter spark than the Disco and toying with the idea of putting EDIS units in place now ready for when I finally get round to MS'ing her. I believe the...

Have had all of mine done by Powers Performance in Coventry. They do mainly TVR stuff but happy with any V8 (just make sure they don't try to bore it out for 5 litres). Ask for Dom. Very happy with the work they did and both times it was well less than a grand.

Just had the Disco V8 start missing badly between 1000 and 2000 rpm when under load and when warm, gradually getting worse as she gets hotter. No sensor faults are coming up on diagnostics. At first, suspected spark issues with LPG being more susceptible than petrol so have checked over knock...

I'd still be concerned for high surge currents between batteries that could shorten their lives or worse. In theory the fuses should protect you from that but I'd prefer some diodes to prevent flow from one battery to the other.

If the drawing is accurate (meaning there's no other connections you haven't noticed) then the USB socket must be shorting somehow. Have you checked with for a short between the socket side of the fuses and the earth?

Spigot will rotate both ways, in one direction it'll be in diff lock, the other it'll be in "normal". Normally a light comes on (unless you've cut the blue / black wire) but have you actually rotated the transmission or are you just knocking the lever back and forth? Sometime a wheel needs to...

If it's the fuses in your diagram that keep blowing, then yes they will. As soon as you throw the switch the two batteries will instantly try to balance with the potential difference between them being the only thing limiting the current flow. If for example you've been running for a bit meaning...

If you do a search on the auction sites you'll find brass replacements, might not help you though if you've chewed up the thread in your top hose as well so check that first. Personally I ended up cutting the bleed out of the top hose and joining together with a bit of copper pipe with jubilee...