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Forgot to mention that. One fob has had the buttons replced. 2nd one is new. Both programmed to car.

Anyone encountered the following problem? I have a Freelander 1 td4 pre facelift. Have 2 fobs and both programmed with car. New batteries in both but both rarely work (opening and locking car). Central locking works when using button on dash. When they do work, there is no buzzer sound so its...

Problem is my engine is not the original but it was retrofitted at some point but for it to be passed ,as is, and put on classic plates, I need to provide proof that that model was at some point produced from factory or as an option. No need to be the same one, but that at some point it was...

Any idea if I can find docs or any proof of maybe one that was on a series 3 civilian?

Yes. Think that's the ones I've been told about. Any idea if there were any for civilian market?

Have been talking to a couple local lads about series 3s and was told that there were series 3s sold with the 2.5l n.a. diesel engine for the German market. I got a confirmation from another friend of mine that there were indeed series 3 lightweight sold with the 2.5l engine for the spanish...

Also no understeer doing round roundabouts at some speed. So handling is good too. Will keep you updated as we test it more.

Don't know exactly. Have it written somewhere in my garage as I kept it for record. Between 150ml or 160ml if not mistaken. Have tried it on the bench in a vice like the video Austen had posted on youtube some time ago and also on the road in full lock reverse. And everyday driving feels much...

So just finished the job and its back on the car. Seems to be working fine. I over filled it so I could drain it when on the car. Infact I draind about 10ml. Process was pretty fast from start to finish. Found my method to be quite effective to refill the VCU and only took a couple of pumps...

So had some time today and opend up the VCU I had laying around. Cleaned and refilled half and put the plates in. Drilled the top and put 2 grease nipples. And welded everything. Continued to refill the rest and seems to have done the job. To refill I used a 60ml syring on 1 nipple which I...

Can understand your situation and Bell engineering are the best solution in my opinion. The problem for me is that I live in Malta and to have it shipped from the uk it would cost around 500Euro for a recon unit. Not sure if new ones are available from landrover but that would be upwards of 1k...

1 to to years is good enough for me. After doing it once its easier to do the 2nd time as all youd need to do is drain ghe old stuff, clean and re fill. It becomes a servicable item thich can easily be done every 2 years. Not expecting it to be as good as the origional one but feel and...

BTW any updates on the rebuilt VCUs? any still going? any quick degrading compared to the origional ones etc..?

yep. found this vid of the fluid and it looks pretty tick

Haven't chacked yet at VW. Good Idea will do see if they have any. As for the holes. I was thinking about the same distance as the factory filler hole. 2 holes opposite each other so they balance each other if I opt for bolts instead of grease nipples.

Any idea if the other product is also good? As to buy the one from ebay it would end up costing me around 120euro in total to have it delivered to Malta. While the other should be around 45euro delivered. Probbably drillig is the safest route to go. May as well go for it. Have done a lot of...

bringing up this thread again. have a couple of questions. Ihave a bad VCU that I'm considering refurbishing. at the moment I'm planning to cut the top off, clean and drill the holes. re weld and re fill. question is what silicone oil can I use? is this stuff good...

I'm currently fixing an L series for my brother and have a problem with the ac lines. The bolts being made of steel in aluminium connections freeze and endup seazed in the connetions. Have already snapped 2 bolts so its gonna give ma a hard time removing the connections. One of the damaged ones...

Glad to hear. Easier when you know what to look for.

Start by checking all turbo hoses. Look for tears and even pin holes that may no be obvous at 1st. It may be loosing pressure when boosting so it trows up the error. Hoses fel soften slightly more when warm so may explain why it does it more whe warm. . If its all good then move to the Maf...