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Add boost leaks to your list.

The problems are probably not connected. I had a similar set of problems on mine (the rear passenger window still doesn't work). The horn was the rotary coupler behind the steering wheel. I got a used one from ebay for about £25 and followed the guide for an MG on this page...

I wouldn't consider 120 excessive. The whole prop assembly has to come off and then the props have to be split from the old VCU. Assuming 2 hrs at 60/hr - if so I would say that is pretty good going.

Not likely to be able to get you lot to contain your debate/arguments/abuse to another thread but someone has to try because it has become a mess. The other thread is a critical resource for new owners. Whatever the merits of the one wheel up test itself, the thread provides a starting point...

Adrian Flux insures modified vehicles and was fairly painless for my previous Mk4 remapped Golf 1.8T. The trouble with modified is you are now down to just a few insurers and it costs because there is less competition. I got a reasonable quote from them and then had a questionnaire to fill out...

Everything you need is in the Freelander torque test thread. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vcu-torque-test-results.109486/page-41 It's a long read and the abuse gets tedious at times but the information in it is a must know for a Freelander 1 owner.

Hippo's Youtube video is the best way to understand it. And a 5l container of water, screenwash or antifreeze is a convenient 5kg weight.

I did mine recently with a used item from ebay. It was obviously unlocked so I set it to the midpoint of the available turns (I think it went 2 1/4 turns each way). The strong advice was to leave the airbag alone for 30 mins after disconnecting the battery so I respected that and had a coffee...

The engine on tickover and no throttle should be able to power the car on full lock on both forward and reverse. If it stalls I would call that a VCU emergency. The Freelander is close to regulation height in some multi story car parks. You can get in with the aerial pinging away on the...

This was discussed in a recent thread. They need to be high tensile bolts and the best way to get exactly the right ones is to get them from a towbar supplier.

Dragging the rear wheels isn't going to do your new VCU much good either.

I am with Dave on the fan. I also think you aren't likely to see more than 24 deg on the way home tomorrow and you may well have some additional water cooling to the rad thrown in along the way...

Well done on your fix (which I am confident will prove good over the coming days). Good thinking skills on the copper shim too. For the same reason as you, mine is running with aluminium tin foil wrapped around the post which may "disagree" with the metal that the post and connection are made...

Check out the last post in this thread for some excellent info. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/high-tensile-bolts-8-8-v-a2-70-stainless.309/ I would use 8.8 or 10.8 steel bolts and replace when surface rust starts to get any depth to it. Stainless looses strength quickly in conditions...

You are required to prove that your vehicle still complies with the specification laid out in the Type Approval. A Certificate of Conformity is proof enough if it has not been modified. The easiest way through that is to remove all the modifications that might invalidate the original...

Why not?

Did you run the engine at all between putting the petrol in and realising your mistake?

Having had 2 or 3 Renault 5 stats fail quite quickly in a previous Audi A4 2.5 tdi, I opted to spend the money for the alloy housing (with stat) that was developed for the Rover. It wasn't cheap but my water temp is still stable 3 months later. As Nodge says - it beats the hell out of trying...

I usually only get this from sites where I start typing a reply and then think better of it and leave. Like facebook. Maybe consider Firefox with the Noscript addon. You can pick and choose what sites can run javascript and what sites can't. It took a bit of getting used to and can be busy at...

Well done for asking. You get a silver star from me for that. As above, you will need all 4. Normally the Freelander is front wheel drive so keep an eye on tyre wear. All terrain tyres seem to have about 10 mm of tread depth - don't let them get more than 5 mm out of whack. Or don't buy 2nd...